Neck Turning & Only Have Bushing Die

[CarlGeorge]

I'm ready to start experimenting with neck turning. My brass has all been fired.

From a little reading I've done it sounds like the optimum method is to FL size using a NON-bushing die - in order to get the entire neck sized. Then I assume I'd use a mandrel to expand, and turn following the use of the mandrel.

Is it worth it to pursue neck turning without having a non-bushing sizing die? (I only have a bushing die.) If so - anything special about the sequence of events? I was figuring I would size as normal, use the mandrel, then turn. But I'm realizing that may not be the way to go after doing some research.

Thanks!

CG

P.S.: If it matters: Straight .284 using necked-up Lapua 6.5-284 brass.

 

[Ackley Kid]

You will likely have to get a fl non bushing die so you size right to the shoulder . Bushing die will only size a portion of the neck and leave you with uneven cut on your case neck . If brass was un fired you would be able to expand and turn with out a problem .

 

[Willie]

I used cheap generic neck sizers to size all the neck, then ran my turn mandrel.

Then I drifted away from bushing dies, to use FL dies and my mandrels.

 

[mikecr]

Should turn necks while new/unfired, and expanded with turning system expander.
You're probably not gonna get a turning mandrel fit with fired/sized cases.

 

[LCazador]

Two things that are very important before neck turning. One is all cases should be full length sized and shoulder bumped the same so the that the cut made into the shoulder is exactly the same (use a Redding competition shell holder to accomplish this, best!) . Two all cases need to be the same case length so the same cut into the shoulder is the same. The case length is what indicates on the neck turner mandrel stop. Can this be done after fireforming? Only if you don't have a tight neck chamber! I'll add one more very important step. Do not cut more than .001" at a time to achieve your final neck diameter!

 

[mikecr]

Turning is so easy that it really takes effort on your part to screw it up.
I turn new cases, as they come out of the box. I don't fire them, size them, trim them, I don't use a case mouth stop. Just run the turning system expander through and turn to touch the neck-shoulder junction at desired thickness.
It's also good timing with new cases in that the shoulders are still below finished shoulder angles. You need them them this way, below cutter angle, so that 'touch' does not contact actual shoulders.
And for sure, float one side of the cutting system. Hold the cutter in your hand. Don't form any notions from lathe turning merchandising or practices that fix both case and cutter, as they only work while cases are actually straight. You'll only get there after fully fire forming. Too late.

Your fired brass does not need turning. Experiment with new/unfired/culled brass.