Neck Turning Mandrels

[Waskawood]

I have a PMA neck turning tool and will start neck turning a new caliber. I was looking at mandrels. With a $40 difference between carbide and HSS. Is there any reason to use the carbide mandrels? How about cutters. Thanks for any input.

 

[pacificman]

Well I use the steel mandrels but choose the carbide cutters. I believe this would last a lifetime as I don't think you would wear out either with the softness of brass cases. I should add that I also keep lube on the mandrels and/or the inside of your cases as you do not want them to gall.

 

[dkhunt14]

Carbide is not supposed to gall. Matt

 

[ShootDots]

I use the SS ones for simple expansion and the carbide ones for the turning mandrel... Now having said that, I am going to get a Carbide Mandrel to expand UP to whatever I need to. Example: When I make dasher brass, I expand to .264 before I turn and neck back down to .243 to make my false shoulder. I find the SS 'satisfactory for doing that, but I believe the Carbide would be better!

 

[artbosco]

Since I have only two calibers that I work with [6PPC & 30BR] I use Carbide all around.

 

[ShootDots]

Since I have only two calibers that I work with [6PPC & 30BR] I use Carbide all around.

You can not possibly go wrong using ALL carbide... That REALLY is the way to go..

 

[amlevin]

Since I have only two calibers that I work with [6PPC & 30BR] I use Carbide all around.

You can not possibly go wrong using ALL carbide... That REALLY is the way to go..

Only your wallet will disagree 8)

 

[Waskawood]

Thanks for the input. What makes them better? Are they less apt to expand with heat, making them more accurate?

 

[ShootDots]

Thanks for the input. What makes them better? Are they less apt to expand with heat, making them more accurate?

Because they are so much harder than SS, they are naturally more lubricit.. When you add a bit of sizing die wax periodically, they NEVER get hot.. They are worth the extra $$$ should you be son inclined to go the extra mile..

 

[Killick]

The mandrel will get hot. I stage the mandrel in a small dish of alcohol between cases and it cools it down to ambient temp. I use a drop of PMA lube on the mandrel for each case, easy peasy.

 

[BoydAllen]

When I started turning necks, I quickly found out that the steel mandrels that I was using could pick up brass, where the pressure and heat were the greatest, directly opposite the cutter, and that if I did not carefully check every case that it would go unnoticed, and my necks would be thinner than I wanted. When I switched to a turner that had a carbide mandrel, there was much less tendency for this to happen. Heat is a byproduct of fit, lubrication and case rotation speed. Try different lubes, keep your RPMs low and run your cases over and expander a couple of times just before you turn them. They will shrink back a little if you expand them one day, and turn another. I prefer a light oil lube. Recently I have tried PMAs turner, and their lubricant. They both work well. Carbide is more important for the turning mandrel.

 

[Waskawood]

Thanks Boyd. Will give a carbide mandrel a try. As always guys, I appreciate the help.

 

[amlevin]

When I started turning necks, I quickly found out that the steel mandrels that I was using could pick up brass, ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~`

Try different lubes,

One of the best lubes I have found is good old fashioned "Gear Lube". One day I tried some that was left in a bottle after changing the lube in my 4X4 differentials. Some Mobil 1 75W-140 Synthetic. From that first try I now use it exclusively. It has a lot of Extreme Pressure lubes which are anti-welding agents and no more brass sticking to my turning tool mandrel.

I also shifted my cordless drill into LOW. Between the lube and the low speed, heat isn't an issue anymore. Pauses to let my hand un-cramp are enough to let it cool whatever amount it needs to.

 

[jonbearman]

How do you get the gear lube off when done.

 

[amlevin]

How do you get the gear lube off when done.

Ultrasonic cleaner with just some Dawn, water, and a little Lemi-shine.

For just a few cases I hose them out with Brake-Kleen and blow them out with air. Sometimes I just wet a bore mop with Brake-Kleen and swab the case neck then blow out with air.