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Neck Turning - Inside & Outside

Hello out there!
I'm a new member and really excited to learn and share some good information with everyone.

I am considering neck turning my brass. I am an experienced reloader but new to neck turning. I have not purchased any tools yet but from what I've learned to this point about neck turning it seems to me that if one only turns the outside of the neck that only 1/2 the problem is solved. Does anyone out there turn both the inside and outside of their necks? And if so, please elaborate and outline your tools, etc.

thanks much,
Jason
 
Jayman_10x said:
I have not purchased any tools yet but from what I've learned to this point about neck turning it seems to me that if one only turns the outside of the neck that only 1/2 the problem is solved. Does anyone out there turn both the inside and outside of their necks?

No need to turn the inside of the neck, unless a donut is created, and you think you must remove it for improved performance, which really isn't the case, at least not in 6PPC short range benchrest.

If you feel the donut must be removed here's the tool that'll do it: http://www.kmshooting.com/catalog/neck-turner-tools/carbide-cutting-pilot.html . Click on the picture for an expanded view.

The tips on this cutting pilot are very sharp. Care should be used when inserting or you'll scratch up the interior portion of the neck that actually holds the bullet.

Whatever you do, don't try inserting the cutting pilot while it's turning. Slide it in first with plenty of lube, and then turn on your electric screw driver or whatever device you're using.

Per Ken Markle, all you need is 180 RPMs for a turning speed. This is important: Ensure you match up your turning tools using the same manufacturer.
 
Jason: When the case neck is run into the expanding mandrel, the I.D. is truly round. The neck thickness variations are forced to the O.D. where they are cut with the outside neck turning tool, just enough to remove the high spots, or as much as you need to remove if you're working with a tight, fitted neck. I find the Sinclair NT-4000 to be my first choice, after trying several others, but there are a lot of very good outside neck turning tools available. Another thought: Why do you feel a need to turn your case necks? Are you working with a factory chamber, a no-turn, or a tight-fitted? Also, what make of brass are you using? Before there is a need to outside neck turn brass there must be a problem to correct.
 
Thanks for the replies. A little background: I have a .260 Rem reamed with a match chamber. To date the bulk Remington brass has been widely available in my area. We also have Nosler custom brass available for 260 Rem, but after testing it against said Remington brass I'm not convinced the extra cost of the Nosler is justified. The only real problem I've noticed with the Remington brass is non-concentric neck thicknesses for about 5% to 15% of the brass (+/- 0.001"). For the price that probably isn't bad, but I'd like to be able to use more of the 'rejects.' I am also aware that Lapua has commenced brass production for the 260 Rem but according to my local dealer when that will be available this year is anyone's guess. When it is I plan to use that exclusively for match rounds, and employ the Remington brass for hunting, fouling rounds, field position practice, etc.

thanks,
Jason
 
Jayman_10x said:
I am also aware that Lapua has commenced brass production for the 260 Rem but according to my local dealer when that will be available this year is anyone's guess. When it is I plan to use that exclusively for match rounds, and employ the Remington brass for hunting, fouling rounds, field position practice, etc.

If and when you commence the use of Lapua in matches, also use it for practice. Practice the same way you compete. Lapua brass has a long life if you treat it well.

Looks like the Lapua .260 Remington Brass #4 PH 6050 will be available in June 2011. Not too long a wait.
 
Jason,

Make a chamber cast of your current chamber to get neck diameter.

Neck down 308 Lapua brass to 260, and neck turn to .002" under your neck diameter of a dummy round with your bullet of choice seated. It should give you 100 percent cleanup (hopefully) and the best fit to your chamber.

I use this approach for my 260 and 7-08.
 
I have a Forrester neck turning lathe that works real good. Most folks seem to use the hand held turners which I've never tried.

Maybe the hand held is more accurite, I don't know. The Forrester is sure fast and easy to use.

Hopefully someone will weigh in on the differences on the two methods.
 
Thanks Alf,

I'm not interested in necking down 308 brass. I'd rather wait for the Lapua 260 Rem brass to be available. My job doesn't allow me abundant time to spend reloading. I have a system established and necking down, or up, brass would only add another process -- I'm trying to simplify.

Good to know your method though. Thanks for sharing.

Jason
 
I also handload for the .260 for target shooting. With new brass, I fireform the brass, then true up the outside of the neck, taking off only the high spots. Thereafter, I always see to it that a new bullet will fit into a fired case with ease. When they get tight,I turn lightly and take off about .001. I never have experienced a 'donut'.
My resized lapua .308 brass withstand many reloadings. The batch I am using at present have been fired 12 times and they act as new. I do anneal often. Resizing the .308 to .260 is truly a cake walk,,simply run it through your .260 die. The only drawback is the wrong headstamp,,,but if do not own a .308,,it''s not a problem at all.
I neck size mostly with the Lee collet die,cuz I like zero headspace.When they get to tight,I run-em thru the FL die. Way too much info,,,I just couldn't stop. Good luck!
 
Thanks 260Ravage,

You mentioned that you anneal the brass. I haven't tried it yet, though I am familiar how to do it. How often do you anneal your brass?

thanks,
Jason
 

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