I have 30˚ and 40˚ cutters.
I use an electric drill for turning. Consistent speed and feed equal consistent thickness of the finished product.
Anyone ever try using a drill press?
Not a drill press as it would be too awkward to hold the cutter. I use a hand held drill (that lays flat on the table).Anyone ever try using a drill press?
I like to use a small machinist vise mounted in my wood vise to hold the turner. When turning you should not try to hold the drill rigid, leave it free to wobble a little. Before you make the cut, spin the case in the drill to make sure it is properly into the shell holder.Not a drill press as it would be too awkward to hold the cutter. I use a hand held drill (that lays flat on the table).
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I turn my 30br brass just slightly into the shoulder. Here is a video I made many years ago. I have tweaked the process every so slightly, however the steps stay in the same order.When turning the brass how far down the shoulder do you turn? I read somewhere that going into the shoulder can help prevent donuts from forming? Also when doing 30BR do you neck up the 6BR brass before or after turning?
Im seriously looking at a PMA Model A and using the same tool and change the cutter and mandrel for the different calibers.
Thanks
Additionally.... IMHO ..... for the purposes of short range Benchrest, and the typical 30br load..... a donut means absolutely diddly squat. I may ruffle some feathers.... but if the bullet only goes down 1/2 the neck, I dont care what the other half does.
I always use the K&M cutting mandrel when I "neck up" (.223 to .243 and/or .243 to .308) because there is a little lip inside the brass that the straight mandrels get hung on and wont allow the cutter to reach the neck junction (the datum). I should have clarified that IMO the donut doesn't mean anything when shooting.... When neck turning NEW brass (I only turn new virgin brass) I always try to eliminate it.If the donut isn't much of a issue is the K&M cutting mandrel required?
this is a Ford Chevy question. Some folk prefer to go from 6mm to 7mm to 7.62mm... I learned to go straight from .243 to .308 with the K&M expander, and That's what I use. sooooo… for me..... there is no reason not to use it.Also is there any reason not to use the 6mm to 30 cal mandrel to expand 308 brass before turning?
I always use the K&M cutting mandrel when I "neck up" (.223 to .243 and/or .243 to .308) because there is a little lip inside the brass that the straight mandrels get hung on and wont allow the cutter to reach the neck junction (the datum). I should have clarified that IMO the donut doesn't mean anything when shooting.... When neck turning NEW brass (I only turn new virgin brass) I always try to eliminate it.
this is a Ford Chevy question. Some folk prefer to go from 6mm to 7mm to 7.62mm... I learned to go straight from .243 to .308 with the K&M expander, and That's what I use. sooooo… for me..... there is no reason not to use it.