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neck turner cutter angle?

http://www.pmatool.com/replacement-cutters/

1. 30˚ for a wide variety of cartridges. BR, PPC, 6.5x47 and most RSAUM

2. 30° for short-neck cartridges such as the 204 Ruger

3. 35˚ for 284 and WSM family cartridges

4. 40˚ for improved cartridges

5. 17.5˚ cutter for 30-06 family

6. 20˚ cutter for 308 family and 338 Lapua

7. 23˚ cutter for 223 family

8. 28˚ cutter for 22-250 (also work for 6mm Rem)



9. 40° for short-neck cartridges such as the 6mm Dasher

10. 25° for 300 Win Mag and 7mm Rem Mag
 
I do not think that cutter angles need to match that of brass as long as they are greater than or equal to. I have turned necks on the expanded necks of .220 Russian cases (preparing them to be fire formed to 6mm PPC) for many years with a thirty degree cutter, and believe that to be a common practice. The shoulder angle of the case is 21 degrees.
 
I have 30˚ and 40˚ cutters.
I use an electric drill for turning. Consistent speed and feed equal consistent thickness of the finished product.
 
I have 30˚ and 40˚ cutters.
I use an electric drill for turning. Consistent speed and feed equal consistent thickness of the finished product.

yep

take a variable speed electric drill motor, i use the plug in kind because i don't want to mess with remembering to charge batteries, and put it in a padded vice with the shell holder in the chuck and have at it. nice and slow and steady. a couple of passes should clean up nicely. then a little high speed run with a piece of scotchbrite pad and they are nice and smooth.
 
Anyone ever try using a drill press?

Yes with great success. Chucking the brass in the press and holding the cutter in my hand. ( Not OSHA approved I am sure)
But holding the cutter so that should it snag it pulls the cutter out of your hand and does not take you for a ride. I've done this now for years using a Lee shell holder and I find it perfect. This is a floor mounted drill press that is older than I am.
 
Anyone ever try using a drill press?
Not a drill press as it would be too awkward to hold the cutter. I use a hand held drill (that lays flat on the table).

46151518_2253005501401069_5255712395912806400_n.jpg
 
Not a drill press as it would be too awkward to hold the cutter. I use a hand held drill (that lays flat on the table).

46151518_2253005501401069_5255712395912806400_n.jpg
I like to use a small machinist vise mounted in my wood vise to hold the turner. When turning you should not try to hold the drill rigid, leave it free to wobble a little. Before you make the cut, spin the case in the drill to make sure it is properly into the shell holder.
 
When turning the brass how far down the shoulder do you turn? I read somewhere that going into the shoulder can help prevent donuts from forming? Also when doing 30BR do you neck up the 6BR brass before or after turning?

Im seriously looking at a PMA Model A and using the same tool and change the cutter and mandrel for the different calibers.

Thanks
 
When turning the brass how far down the shoulder do you turn? I read somewhere that going into the shoulder can help prevent donuts from forming? Also when doing 30BR do you neck up the 6BR brass before or after turning?

Im seriously looking at a PMA Model A and using the same tool and change the cutter and mandrel for the different calibers.

Thanks
I turn my 30br brass just slightly into the shoulder. Here is a video I made many years ago. I have tweaked the process every so slightly, however the steps stay in the same order.
 
Additionally.... IMHO ..... for the purposes of short range Benchrest, and the typical 30br load..... a donut means absolutely diddly squat. I may ruffle some feathers.... but if the bullet only goes down 1/2 the neck, I dont care what the other half does.
 
Additionally.... IMHO ..... for the purposes of short range Benchrest, and the typical 30br load..... a donut means absolutely diddly squat. I may ruffle some feathers.... but if the bullet only goes down 1/2 the neck, I dont care what the other half does.

If the donut isnt much of a issue is the K&M cutting mandrel required? Also is there any reason not to use the 6mm to 30 cal mandrel to expand 308 brass before turning?
 
If the donut isn't much of a issue is the K&M cutting mandrel required?
I always use the K&M cutting mandrel when I "neck up" (.223 to .243 and/or .243 to .308) because there is a little lip inside the brass that the straight mandrels get hung on and wont allow the cutter to reach the neck junction (the datum). I should have clarified that IMO the donut doesn't mean anything when shooting.... When neck turning NEW brass (I only turn new virgin brass) I always try to eliminate it.


Also is there any reason not to use the 6mm to 30 cal mandrel to expand 308 brass before turning?
this is a Ford Chevy question. Some folk prefer to go from 6mm to 7mm to 7.62mm... I learned to go straight from .243 to .308 with the K&M expander, and That's what I use. sooooo… for me..... there is no reason not to use it.
 
I always use the K&M cutting mandrel when I "neck up" (.223 to .243 and/or .243 to .308) because there is a little lip inside the brass that the straight mandrels get hung on and wont allow the cutter to reach the neck junction (the datum). I should have clarified that IMO the donut doesn't mean anything when shooting.... When neck turning NEW brass (I only turn new virgin brass) I always try to eliminate it.


this is a Ford Chevy question. Some folk prefer to go from 6mm to 7mm to 7.62mm... I learned to go straight from .243 to .308 with the K&M expander, and That's what I use. sooooo… for me..... there is no reason not to use it.

With the expander question I meant that I have some 308 brass for my FTR rifle that I will be doing a light clean up on and was wondering if I would need a dedicated 308 expander mandrel or would the 6mm to 308 neck up one work?
 

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