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neck tension question?

BoydAllen said:
A friend cleans his brass in a vibratory case cleaner, one of the benefits of their being polished is that he can see the annealing line better as it moves down the case, to just below the shoulder.

He sets up his torch so that it is secure, and uses one of the Hornady annealing setups. Because timing is half second (or more) critical) for the type of annealing that he (and I) want (not fully softened, some spring left, but more uniform) I suggested that he purchase an inexpensive battery powered audible metronome, from a music store. Set on 60 it gives an audible one beat per second. Using this in conjunction with the Templaq, he soon figured out that with the flame inner tip touching the center of a case neck, as it is spun by his cordless screwdriver, case in the Hornady holder, how many seconds it was taking. He also could see where the annealing line came out, after a few hundred repetitions, with the aid of the metronome, he now has the timing down so that he can simply use the progress of the annealing line to time his process. To stop the process, he tilts the holder so that the case is moved out of the flame, and falls into a bucket of water. I don't think that the water is needed, but it does no harm.

From all of this he has much more consistent seating feel, and more dependable accuracy from his .223 and .22-250 varmint rifles. This is probably the least expensive way to proceed. If you are using larger cases, you may have to improvise a holder. If you decide to do this. Let me know how it turns out for you. Good luck.
Boyd,
I have a Ken Light annealer I would like to get started using it here real soon, I think I will use some of my 22-250 or 243 brass I have from many years ago when I didn't keep track of times reloaded and keep it sorted accordingly just in case I ruin some of it before I start on my Lapua and Norma brass, my question for you is you stated you didn't feel you needed to drop them in water, I don't like the idea of having to either so what do you do, drop it on a wet towel? or just air cool?
Wayne.
 
I just use the deep well socket method, check out ammosmith on annealing on youtube and you will see how simple it is. I do use the water because I feel it cools the case before the rear of the case gets to hot. One thing I found is getting the water out of the case really sucks plus it makes the inside of the case really nasty, so I developed a way to dry the cases, take a window fan place it on a cardboard box on it's back so it will blow up toward the ceiling then set the cases in the little grates in the fan, primer hole up, of course deprimed. I still brush the inside of the cases when dry.
 
Wayne,
I would have the cases hit a padded incline and then roll into a container of your choice. I don't think that the water is needed. It has been a while since I read the Ken Light instructions. What do they say on the subject?
Boyd
 

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