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Muzzle break for 6BR?

I'm going to be rebarreling my Remy 700 into a 6BR and have already ordered a Schneider barrel for it. I'm going with a 28" finish length, HV contour, and a 1:8 twist no-neck turn. I'll be shooting 87g. Vmax on up to 105g. VLDs. I've seen some shooters using a muzzle break and some don't. This is mainly a varmint rig and was wondering if a muzzle break is worthwhile for a 6BR or not? If so, what are some of the good breaks out there? Recoil sensitivity is not a problem. Thanks for any help.
 
Your fellow shooters at the range will definitely thank you for not using a muzzle brake! With the mild recoil of the 6mm BR a brake is totally unnecessary and the resulting extra noise would be more of a hindrance!
 
As you stated, your rifle will be for varminting, so I would go with the brake. I am having a 6BR built too, and I will be using a Vais brake on my Bartlein 28", 1-8 twist barrel. I can't wait to go varminting this spring. It will be the first time I have been varminting with a 6BR. I am looking forward to finally owning one, I should have had one built along time ago. Let us know what you decide. If you do decide to go with the brake, I would either go with a Vais or Holland. I personally like the Vais better but the Holland works very well too. What are the specs on your 6BR.
 
Think about having the muzzle end threaded so the brake can be removed. On the bench, shoot without it. In the field, put it back on and have a ball! At 100 yards off the bench, you won't be able to see your hits. Close but not close enough. ;)
 
Harrells breaks are as good as any and adding one to a 6br is iceing on the cake.
Seeing the hit at any sane distance is a good thing too, and if the noise is a problem you should be wearing ear protection any ways....
I like brakes on all my rifles no matter what they are used for, but 90 % of my shooting is done on my own range, or in a hayfield so the extra noise is of no concern to me or the varmints...
 
By going with a threaded muzzle brake, will that affect accuracy? I mean will I be able to tighten it the same each and every time will take it off and put it on? I'd probably best go without it at first and see how it works I guess before doing a brake. I'm currently shooting a .308 Win. with medium charge loads and the rifle is always moving around with the recoil,using the free recoil method of BR-style with only a slight contact to the butt).

I'm going with the specs of a .272 no-neck turn with a match chamber and .070 of free throat on it. I heard the free-throat distance was good for the VLD's in 6BR.

Another question on this gun, I got Lapua brass and with 87g. Vmax's, I got a measuring of .0268" all around. Should I maybe go with a .271 or a .270 no-neck turn? Thanks for any help.
 
Good advice.I have a 28" Pac-Nor cylinder barrel on a BR gun .272 no-turn neck and it shoots the 105 VLD Bergers like a laser with 30.4 gr of Varget and CCI 450 primers and jammed .020 into the lands.I will never be without a 6mmBR...lol
 
Depends on if you are doing walk-a-bouts in your varminting and using a bipod. W/O brake in that instance and it doesn't really matter if you exclusively use a bench. I thought about a brake but I do shoot off the bipod some yet out varminting and opted to not bother with a brake. You can always add it later if you want to.

Woody
 
Great advice on here. I going to stick with the .272 neck because it seems to be the best all around, then maybe work from there after shooting it for awhile. Also try it without the bipod for awhile to to see how it works. Thanks for the help guys.
 
I certainly support a no-turn neck and i supoort a brake for varmint hunting. It makes a real difference and it makes using a really powerful scope that much easier. Great entertainment value.

If you are in a situation where it might bother others, unscrew it and take it off.
 

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