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Muzzle Brakes - worth the effort?

SSL

Gold $$ Contributor
My Ruger American Predator .223 came threaded 1/2" X 28 for a brake. I really didn't care at the time, but I am slowly leaning toward the idea of having less movement to better see the target on firing. Granted, my current .223 loads with 52-grain bullets certainly don't recoil all that much, but since the rifle has a 1-8" twist, I am considering eventually trying up to 75-grain bullets. 75 to 87-grain bullets move even my Savage M12 VLP (.243 at over 12 pounds with scope and bipod) quite a bit. I can only imagine what 75-grain bullets would do in a 6.5 pound (plus scope, and yes I know the .223 will use quite a bit less powder than the .243). I also know that muzzle-blast will be more severe, but I always wear very good ear protection.

My questions are: Are brakes at this level really worth the effort? How much do they affect tuning? Any recommendations as to brakes that are relatively inexpensive but still do the job?
 
My Ruger American Predator .223 came threaded 1/2" X 28 for a brake. I really didn't care at the time, but I am slowly leaning toward the idea of having less movement to better see the target on firing. Granted, my current .223 loads with 52-grain bullets certainly don't recoil all that much, but since the rifle has a 1-8" twist, I am considering eventually trying up to 75-grain bullets. 75 to 87-grain bullets move even my Savage M12 VLP (.243 at over 12 pounds with scope and bipod) quite a bit. I can only imagine what 75-grain bullets would do in a 6.5 pound (plus scope, and yes I know the .223 will use quite a bit less powder than the .243). I also know that muzzle-blast will be more severe, but I always wear very good ear protection.

My questions are: Are brakes at this level really worth the effort? How much do they affect tuning? Any recommendations as to brakes that are relatively inexpensive but still do the job?
It may be just me,but i dont think a 223 would need a brake. Just my two cents Tommy Mc
 
I have a spiral/radial type brake I got (on a whim) when I ordered my 6x45 barrel and like it what little I have shot it. I have it in my range bag but usually forget to screw it on/play with the majority of the time. The times I have used it on the 6x45, 223, 204R & 20P, it reduces the felt recoil and muzzle jump on these calibers. I haven't noticed stuff blowing back on me when used, but I do notice the other "flat type" brakes others have at the range I use. The flat type scatter my load info papers and I can feel the blast wave but granted this on the larger calibers.
 
It may be just me,but i dont think a 223 would need a brake. Just my two cents Tommy Mc
With my current loads, no. Just would like to keep crosshairs on target better. With 75-grain bullets, I would assume movement will be worse. Trying to re-aquire a target (usually groundhogs) after the shot against a brush background can be problematic.
 
My $0.02 on muzzle brakes.
I used to avoid them because of the blast/noise/social issue. I now have them on almost every rifle I own.
I built a .223AI AR a few years back and I noticed that when I was over 10x, it was difficult to get the follow-up shot and it was really hard to keep a ground squirrel in view - shooting 77gr @ 3050 fps. Attached a brake and it was a whole new experience. Follow up and self-spotting were night and day different.
I also started getting interested in FPR and PRS shooting. To get my feet wet I pulled a 308 off the shelf, a 13lb RPR with a NF. I had never removed the factory brake and I seemed to place middle-of-the-pack no matter how much practice. I switched to a very aggressive brake and saw immediate improvement.
I put APA micro bastards on my 30-06 hunting rifles (less than 7 lbs rifles) and it had made a tremendous difference, the rifles are now pleasant to shoot especially for long sessions.
I am a polite bench shooter. If someone starts unloading next to me I inform them that I am using a brake. If I don't know the folks on the next bench when I show up I ask if it is ok or try to find a bench near someone who is already using one. Just being polite makes a huge difference much less shooting with a brake.
No matter what, someone will have an issue and they will voice an opinion. It's just that, an opinion. If it lets you shoot better than I say go for it - earplugs and earmuffs work just as well on haters as they do for deflected muzzle gasses.
 
Have no dog in this fight , as long as the OP and others understand they will not be allowed to use any rifle with a Brake in F-Class competition . I've heard the whinin from guys with Brakes being barred from Matches , with the classic , "Nobody told me" . You've been told ! If you've ever shot next to someone using a Brake , you don't need any explanation on this .
 
My $0.02 on muzzle brakes.
I used to avoid them because of the blast/noise/social issue. I now have them on almost every rifle I own.
I built a .223AI AR a few years back and I noticed that when I was over 10x, it was difficult to get the follow-up shot and it was really hard to keep a ground squirrel in view - shooting 77gr @ 3050 fps. Attached a brake and it was a whole new experience. Follow up and self-spotting were night and day different.
I also started getting interested in FPR and PRS shooting. To get my feet wet I pulled a 308 off the shelf, a 13lb RPR with a NF. I had never removed the factory brake and I seemed to place middle-of-the-pack no matter how much practice. I switched to a very aggressive brake and saw immediate improvement.
I put APA micro bastards on my 30-06 hunting rifles (less than 7 lbs rifles) and it had made a tremendous difference, the rifles are now pleasant to shoot especially for long sessions.
I am a polite bench shooter. If someone starts unloading next to me I inform them that I am using a brake. If I don't know the folks on the next bench when I show up I ask if it is ok or try to find a bench near someone who is already using one. Just being polite makes a huge difference much less shooting with a brake.
No matter what, someone will have an issue and they will voice an opinion. It's just that, an opinion. If it lets you shoot better than I say go for it - earplugs and earmuffs work just as well on haters as they do for deflected muzzle gasses.
Thanks, you make a very good point about noise factors. I have my own range, so annoying others is of no real concern. The very few times I go to a public range are during the week and I almost never have company to annoy (or them me).
Like you, I should have included ground squirrels. Those little critters are hard to see in the grass or against brush under the best conditions and even harder to keep track of during and after a shot.
 
Have no dog in this fight , as long as the OP and others understand they will not be allowed to use any rifle with a Brake in F-Class competition . I've heard the whinin from guys with Brakes being barred from Matches , with the classic , "Nobody told me" . You've been told ! If you've ever shot next to someone using a Brake , you don't need any explanation on this .
Understood. I do not compete and all of my shooting is on my own range, in the field or on a very seldom used public range that is usually empty. I personally wouldn't want to be forced to sit next to a brake user on a crowded firing line either.
 
I often wondered myself if it was worth it? Found a really good deal on one so let’s try it. Put it on my 16” AR-15 just for fun. This is a fun, plinking, good time gun not ment for any type of competition. I was surprised, follow up shots were quicker and felt recoil much less. I could see impacts thru the scope. Impressed i put one on my hunting rifle (30/06 Remmy). Really impressed now! The old 06 feels more like a 243. No more getting pounded by 180-220gr bullets.
 
Brakes make sense when the ratio of powder weight to bullet weight is high, because a brake can only dissipate the portion of the recoil that comes from the powder. A brake on a .45 ACP is pointless - the recoil is mostly bullet. A brake on a .223 isn't - except that they hardly have any recoil in the first place. I wouldn't bother personally.
 
My Ruger American Predator .223 came threaded 1/2" X 28 for a brake.

A better possibility is that the threads were put there for a suppressor which would be excellent for varmint and predator shooting. The thread size is common for suppressors, just make sure the suppressor is for center fire.
 
Thanks for everyone's input. I do think some are missing the point...I am not trying to reduce recoil, it isn't much in a .223 anyway. I would like to decrease muzzle rise so the scope stays on target better. As I move to trying up to 75-grain bullets, I would imagine this is only going to get worse. Just trying to be proactive.
 
A better possibility is that the threads were put there for a suppressor which would be excellent for varmint and predator shooting. The thread size is common for suppressors, just make sure the suppressor is for center fire.
I didn't bother mentioning a suppressor because it isn't an option in my state. I live in Illinois. Big 'No-No!"
 

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