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Muzzle brake?

long40shot

long40shot

Gold $$ Contributor
I'm thinking of trying a make brake on my 243 to help see my impacts on p-dogs. I'd like a decent brake, but i don't won't to spend a bunch. I was thinking of a radial style so i wouldn't need to have it timed or use washers.

Thanks
Matt
 
Can't beat the prices for a Ross or Harrels brake. I have a lathe and it's cheaper to buy one of theirs. I have them on all our 1000 yard guns and they are very accurate. Can watch the trace all the way to the target. Side ports with top holes. Radial brakes tend to throw dirt or leaves up if you shoot prone. I've used rubber washers to time with no loosening, crush washers work also.

Topstrap
 
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long40shot said:
I'm thinking of trying a make brake on my 243 to help see my impacts on p-dogs. I'd like a decent brake, but i don't won't to spend a bunch. I was thinking of a radial style so i wouldn't need to have it timed or use washers.

Thanks
Matt
Click to expand...
I highly recommend the APA little bastard. It's by far one of the most effective on the market and the gen2 does not have to be timed by a gunsmith.
 
long40shot said:
I'm thinking of trying a make brake on my 243 to help see my impacts on p-dogs. I'd like a decent brake, but i don't won't to spend a bunch. I was thinking of a radial style so i wouldn't need to have it timed or use washers.

Thanks
Matt
Click to expand...
You might want to look a Witt machine.. Bolt on brake. that's right bolt on. Not perfect but will tame a beast. When you don,t need it take it off. Just my two cents.. Tommy Mc.
 
Piece of bar stock, a mill and a lathe and now I'm a brake maker. BS! There is a TON of crap out there and every one works better than the other guy's. I have one that the threads are out of perpendicular to the centerline.

Harrel's tactical but it must be timed. They work. Use shims.
 
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I shot many thousands of rounds during p. dog hunts, used a muzzle break on everything.

I would recommend that you wear a set of ear plugs and electronic ear muffs to protect your hearing.

On a 243 and AI, I would recommend a weighted stock plus a muzzle break. We used to order the McMillen benchrest stocks with half of the forearm empty and the butt stock empty, we fill them with casting resin and #9 bird shot. This in combo with a 30" unturned blank and muzzle beak made the rifle kick like a 22 RF. We ordered the McMillen Hunter class stock the same way I described above for 223, 223 AI, 22/250's. This makes seeing your impacts perfect. Also, reducing the recoil means a lot less shooter fatigue at the end of the day.

I have 7 different kinds of muzzle breaks, they all work well. The brakes with the large side ports that are a tactical brakes seem to have more concussion on you. Regular ear muffs is not enough in my opinion.

The most effective muzzle break I have ever had was made by Williams, and has three expansion chambers. This brake was on a 7 mag, and I felt like I was shooting a 223. I can't say enough good about this Williams muzzle break, but it is not a tactical muzzle break.
 
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AckleymanII said:
I shot many thousands of rounds during p. dog hunts, used a muzzle break on everything.

I would recommend that you wear a set of ear plugs and electronic ear muffs to protect your hearing.

On a 243 and AI, I would recommend a weighted stock plus a muzzle break. We used to order the McMillen benchrest stocks with half of the forearm empty and the butt stock empty, we fill them with casting resin and #9 bird shot. This in combo with a 30" unturned blank and muzzle beak made the rifle kick like a 22 RF. We ordered the McMillen Hunter class stock the same way I described above for 223, 223 AI, 22/250's. This makes seeing your impacts perfect. Also, reducing the recoil means a lot less shooter fatigue at the end of the day.

I have 7 different kinds of muzzle breaks, they all work well. The brakes with the large side ports that are a tactical brakes seem to have more concussion on you. Regular ear muffs is not enough in my opinion.

The most effective muzzle break I have ever had was made by Williams, and has three expansion chambers. This brake was on a 7 mag, and I felt like I was shooting a 223. I can't say enough good about this Williams muzzle break, but it is not a tactical muzzle break.
Click to expand...
I'll agree with the Williams muzzle brake. I own one that I had installed about 10 years ago on a 308. It helped immensely on my prairie dog shoots. Loud, yes. Ear protection is mandatory. The ports are cut so dust and debris won't blow up and around as the shot is made from a prone position. Looks alot like the picture you posted.
 
I put on a lot of brakes, and really like playing with them, I've not been a fan of the Nathan's brakes UNTIL I installed his 4 port beast on my personal rifle, running a 28 Nosler with 195 Berger's up to 3200 fps total rifle weights 10.2 lbs with Nightforce SHV on it. Recoil is at a level my 11 year old daughter will not hesitate to shoot it and I can shoot it super loose all day long, the design controls muzzle jump most effectively without top ports or over compensating which is huge IMO!
For the money and even for a lot more money the Beast brake is the most effective I've installed.
 
I agree with the Ross and Barrels for price point. And APA little bastard for performance. I have little bastards gen 2 on everything.
 
Harrels is the best bang for the buck. Expertly machined and reduce recoil as good as anything on the market. Harrels radial brake is $30 shipped and their 4 port tactical brake with 30 degree upward angled ports is $45 shipped. Tactical brake would need to be timed.

I've had two of the radials and have one of the tactical brakes. Work perfectly. Have another tactical on order right now. The radial on my 7mm Rem Mag using 168gr berger VLDs at 3000 fps reduced recoil to feel about like a 22-250.

I now use the Harrels Tactical brakes exclusively because they don't have bottom ports which keeps dirt and snow being blown up in your face when shooting from the prone position.
 
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