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More help needed with the Dillon XL650

So I got the machine put together today and apart from a few adjustments needed for the dies moving after initial use, all seems to be working. One thing I need advice about is lube.

Used to do the reloading in a Lee turret which allowed me to lube one in ten 9 mm case with a light touch of Imperial, but with the Dillon and the auto case feeder, this will be hard. I notice that with the Lee carbide dies, the resizing and belling is a little tough going and probably means I need some lube, any suggestion as to how best to do this?
 
I don't use a Dillon but I use Imperial Resizing for ordinary resizing. BUT I use RCBS Lube 2 for the tougher base resizing which goes very nicely and more smoother than even the Imperial, especially when I have to use a Small Base Die on casing that were fired in a different or looser chamber. BTW, Cabela's has it in stock right now as it's becoming more difficult to find this lube as I'm told RCBS has discontinued making it.
 
I use a mix of Dillon and RCBS pistol dies with a carbide sizers. I have never needed or used any lube and have never had a stuck round.

Run with as little belling as you can and still get enough bell to reliably start and seat a bullet. Maybe if you're belling more than needed, that's contributing to the problem at the belling position.


If I was having this issue sizing, I would replace the dies as needed so I could run without needing any lube.
 
Thanks for the input.

Perhaps some clarifications is in order. One is I have been reloading pistol brass without any trouble for 5 years and have at least 10K under my belts so this is not a new experience. Second, I am not having problem sizing/belling or having stuck cases.

What I have is more pressure than I would like running the roller handle. Part of that is of course due to the progressive nature of the press i.e. doing 4-5 things simultaneously, and part of it is trying to go slow since I see the possibility of spilling powder despite the fact that I am only using 3.3 grains of Titegroup. Most of the pressure I think comes from the sizing

To be very frank, and I could be wrong, but I have a hard time believing that one could run that press with little pressure with the “right” dies. If this is true, I would like to hear this from more users. So to be more precise, looking for a good lube strategy…
 
I use dillon carbide dies with my 650 and 1050 and never have had to use any lube on any of the cases. The soul purpose of the carbide dies is to eliminate using lube and Dillon in my opinion makes the best pistol dies that can be had.
 
Agree that the idea of using carbide die is to not have to use lube - I know that.

I am sure that Dillon makes a lot of great stuff - that is the reason I brough the 650. However, it is also unfortunately true that they don't size 9mm brass down enough sometimes to eliminate that Glock "bulge" - These rounds will not fit in a case gauge. Lee die is also known to size down further, eliminating this problem. Just saying.
 
JLOW, I use all Dillon dies except for a couple of rifle calibers and have never used lube on the pistol rounds. One exception that I do with 40 cal is when I use the grx die. I put the cases in a plastic bag and use a shot of Hornady one shot,seal the bag, roll them around a bit and dump them out in a cookie sheet and let dry. Run them thru the grx and then in the 650 for loading. No mess in the 650 and I shoot the rounds. The lube is no problem. You could this with a percentage of each batch you put in the case feeder if you feel a little lube would help. Bob
 
I always lube my pistol cases just for the reason you stated. "Less force needed". I used to use 1Shot but now I make my own. Throw your cases in a gallon ziplock bag, spray some lube on them, shake them to coat evenly, spray again and shake. Wait a few minutes for the alcohol to evaporate and pour the cases into the case feeder. Your ready to go! If you don't get carried away with the lube there's no need to worry about the feeder getting gummed up. Just pull the plate occasionally and wipe it down.

I like shiny "new looking" cases so I throw the loaded rnds back in the tumbler and run for 15-20 min to get the lube off but you don't have to.

Actually takes longer to type it out than it does to do it LOL
 
I have a friend that has shot USPSA for well over a decade now and he has reloaded tens of thousands of rounds on a Dillon XL650 with a case feeder. He fills the case feeder about half full and then sprays the brass in the hopper with Hornady Oneshot lube. The lube leaves a dry film, so there is minimum amount of overspray and mess. If you don't have a case feeder you could get the same results if you used a plastic bucket and mixed your brass in it as you spray. I hope this helps.

http://www.hornady.com/store/One-Shot-Spray-Case-Lube

Darryll
 
Yep I hornady one shoot my cases in a Rubbermaid box and shake them around. Key is to let them dry or you will stick a case.
 
jlow said:
Agree that the idea of using carbide die is to not have to use lube - I know that.

I am sure that Dillon makes a lot of great stuff - that is the reason I brough the 650. However, it is also unfortunately true that they don't size 9mm brass down enough sometimes to eliminate that Glock "bulge" - These rounds will not fit in a case gauge. Lee die is also known to size down further, eliminating this problem. Just saying.

Add a simple Lee Factory Crimp die for your 9mm in the last station. Don't bother to crimp at your seating station, just use it as the last step before the finished case is tossed into the bin.

The Lee FCD in 9mm particularly, forces a carbide sizing ring over the entire finished round and then adds a taper crimp to your spec. The carbide ring goes all the way to the case head "web" and does a great job of "ironing out" the Glock Bulge. The "Push through dies" like the GRX don't work well with 9mm due to it's being a tapered case. The FCD has been a permanent resident on my 9mm tool head since I got the 650. Absolute NO issues with chambering since I bought the die long ago. Even with the "Glocked" brass.
 
Thanks guys for more great suggestions. I do have the case feeder and will be working on this over the week to see what works best and report back.

One thing I could not avoid noticing is part of the catch (i.e. resistant) is the release of the powder funnel/belling piece from the case. I am currently only slightly belling but I think my problem relates to the fact that my brass are all SS media cleaned and so there is no carbon inside the case.... Might try hand lubing the bottom of that piece where the belling part is to see if that helps.

Amlevin, I am actually using the Lee Deluxe Pistol 4-Die Set with the Dillon which includes their crimp die. This is what I was using in the Lee Turret in the last 4 years that has worked so well. Figured no reason to argue with success.
 
I use dillion rapid polish in my tumbler media I'm pretty sure that it contains some liquid car wax. It serves a couple of purposes as I believe it makes your cases size easier and you do not get that "stick" of the powder funnel in the mouth of squeaky clean brass. It also makes your loaded ammo stay looking clean and bright longer before it starts to tarnish. No gummy residue of case lube in the case feeder that I use for rifle ammo on my 650.

I have loaded and shot a couple hundred thousand rounds using just rapid polish in the media......It works!

Carbide dies are a must if your not using lube.
 
jlow said:
One thing I could not avoid noticing is part of the catch (i.e. resistant) is the release of the powder funnel/belling piece from the case.

Take the "funnel" out and carefully examine the portion that expands and bell's the case. Look for machine marks that are possibly gripping the case. When I run into these types of marks polish them down the marks with 2,000 grit wet/dry and then, if I can chuck the part in a drill (a long machine screw with nuts and washers can hold a powder funnel from a dillon) polish this surface with Flitz. If you can't chuck it up then just use a dremel with felt bob.

Smooth it down and you'll be amazed at how little grip will remain.
 

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