Did you use a constant velocity joint?We then attached 3 HP PIV drive to the rear of the late and ran a u joint drive shaft to thr input.
As the photo shows, just regular sealed u-joints.Did you use a constant velocity joint?
Thanks. Was concerned if conventional joints would give a "notchy" power delivery. Looks like your angle on the joints is not to steep.As the photo shows, just regular sealed u-joints.
They are just about straight.Thanks. Was concerned if conventional joints would give a "notchy" power delivery. Looks like your angle on the joints is not to steep.
KurtzHere is a pretty good thread describing the 10EE Toolroom lathes:
https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/monarch-lathes/what-allure-10ee-392011/
I bought one from a local man who was certified to refurbish Monarch lathes. His work and storage area was phenomenal! Think kid in candy shop... I sold it later to fund other machines. I now have a Rivett and a
HLV-H, Hardinge. The Rivett is original (looks like the 10EE) and fully tooled and the Hardinge was refurbished and fully tooled. I have to have manual lathes around for some types of work.
Do you like your Rivett and Harding better than the monarch E
E ? Any pictures of your lathes? It's always nice to see good machines.
What's the guys name that refurbishes Monarchs and is he still doing it?
What model Rivett do you have? I had a 1941 Rivett 1020, which required extensive restoration, but was a wonderful lathe. I sold it back to the good friend who initially started its restoration, when I bought a very nice 1946 Monarch 10EE from him.The Rivett is my daily driver for handling most manual lathe processes. Smooth, easy to set up and stays within the accuracy parameters for longer periods of time. Yes, I've done some parts replacement and testing over the years just to make sure it lasts into the next century...
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