Methods of Aluminum Finishing at HOME

[mac86951]

Ok,
I've seen some great examples of ways to finish your gunsmithing project, but I would like some feed-back on those that have put the finish to the test.

My case: I have a 6061 lower in the RAW, Anodizing minimum prices are too high for my tastes since I only have one. Hard coat III is $150 before FFL. That is my price target then.

Of Interest:
Metal Prep procedure:
Clean/etch/home anodize/primer/paint/bake?

Durability of finish: Surface scratches, gun cleaning agents, bearing surfaces?

Currently I'm looking at Duracoat system, or Cerakote.
I have air-compressor and painting tools (assume so I'll buy one outside of my budget since it is useful elsewhere). I'd rather not use my kitchen oven, but I have access to an epoxy curing oven if needed.

I'm open to all suggestions.

-Mac

 

[Larryh128]

Use the ceracote. Duracoat is fine but ceracote holds up better & looks better also. WHATEVER you do, DO NOT BAKE ANY PARTS IN YOUR HOME OVEN. All of the 2 part coating use a iso cyanide in the hardener. It is nothing that you want coming in contact with your food. Also DO NOT store the ceracoate in your refrigerator. Same deal. You only need 30-40# of pressure to spray correctly so you'll need a regulator on your compressor. You will also need an approved paint mask, not a dust mask. This stuff is nothing that you want going into your lungs. It needs to be baked at 300 degrees for about 45 minutes. Prep is blasting with 120 grit aluminum oxide and cleaning in solvent such as acetone. You with need a detail paint gun, forget the airbrush unless you are really patient. You can buy a mini LPHV detail gun from Harbor Freight that is actually pretty decent for under $20. LOTS of ventelation. Better is a spray hood with a exhaust fan. Ceracoat also makes a coating that doesn't need to be baked, a high temp coating. Works good, just not a durable as the 2 part. There are some youtube videos that will give you an idea.

 

[jonbearman]

By the time you spend all the money to do it yourself you may as well send it to one of the many shops who does it for a living.

 

[DCRYDER]

You are not buying or selling so no ffl is needed.

 

[Raythemanroe]

Use the ceracote. Duracoat is fine but ceracote holds up better & looks better also. WHATEVER you do, DO NOT BAKE ANY PARTS IN YOUR HOME OVEN. All of the 2 part coating use a iso cyanide in the hardener. It is nothing that you want coming in contact with your food. Also DO NOT store the ceracoate in your refrigerator. Same deal. You only need 30-40# of pressure to spray correctly so you'll need a regulator on your compressor. You will also need an approved paint mask, not a dust mask. This stuff is nothing that you want going into your lungs. It needs to be baked at 300 degrees for about 45 minutes. Prep is blasting with 120 grit aluminum oxide and cleaning in solvent such as acetone. You with need a detail paint gun, forget the airbrush unless you are really patient. You can buy a mini LPHV detail gun from Harbor Freight that is actually pretty decent for under $20. LOTS of ventelation. Better is a spray hood with a exhaust fan. Ceracoat also makes a coating that doesn't need to be baked, a high temp coating. Works good, just not a durable as the 2 part. There are some youtube videos that will give you an idea.

Thanks, That is a good piece of info

Ray

 

[nicholst55]

I'm doing a similar project; a local CeraKote shop will do lowers for $60, which is hard to beat. Google DIY anodizing, because it is something that you can do at home if you so desire. Be advised that it will likely NOT be a Type III hard coat when you finish - that requires higher voltage and longer submersion.

Another alternative is Brownells Aluma Hyde II. It is an epoxy spray paint that was developed to (re)finish aluminum gun parts. Probably not as durable as CeraKote, but not a bad finish for the price.

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/paint-finishes/air-cure-aerosol-paints/aluma-hyde-ii-prod1117.aspx

 

[mac86951]

Thanks for the inputs. Other than the smaller spray gun, I've got the other parts (just finished painting a '66 Mustang) and yes a real spray mask is a MUST.

Sounds like everyone is in agreement that Cerakote is more durable than Duracoat, so I'll search that route.

Thanks for the FFL clarification. Around here most believe that the 7 is needed to apply finish to a lower, but I did look it up, and this is true only if intended to sell. I could see the sticky issue either way, but I'll Cerakote it anyway simply because I have access to an oven that is NOT for food. I'll wait to finish it until all parts are fit tested and approved!

Thanks again!

-Mac

 

[watercam]

FWIW I believe anodizing is best as if it is Type III/MILSPEC it will harden the surface of the aluminum for about 2-3 mils thus making it stronger at points of stress (pin holes for example). The lower should last longer. 6061 is good material but when I was making underwater camera housings out of it I could scratch and gouge it easily if it was not anodized. My $0.02.