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Metering H110

Most of my experience is with metering extruded powders (ex. N135, H322, Benchmark, Varget). I have recently started metering H110 and boy it makes a mess. The weight dispensed is fairly consistent but after a session of charging cases the powder is everywhere. My question is whether there is a powder measure better suited than the others to handling spherical powders? Or is this just typical when metering H110 period?
Both of my powder measures were tuned and adjusted so I am sure that they are being used as intended. It would help to know at this point if there is a certain powder measure that is known to do a clean job with H110 type powders.
 
I meter H110 (and a few other spherical powders) all the time with no wandering powder kernels. I use a Redding BR3 with a drop tube and charge directly into a cartridge case. The case makes a good seal against a caliber specific nylon insert that works with the drop tube (Sinclair brand). Charge can be poured into the pan of my scale from there, then use a Lyman black funneled pan to pour back into the case. Sounds like too many steps but is fast and very neat.
 
Back in the day I loaded .357 Max with H-110 in a Dillon. Long story short, I switched to H-4227. Less muzzle blast, Less recoil, outstanding accuracy, metered very well and no messes to clean up.
 
Toz -

Howdy !

When when assembling H110 / WW296 loads for my .357AutoMag " carbine ", I used a Lyman powder dispenser tha was mod'ed to incorporate a " Culver " micro-style insert. Metering was accurate, and not messy ( for me ). I also uilized a " drop tube " on the measure.

For .357Mag handgun loads w/ WW296/H110, I used a Lyman rotary-type powder measure.
Again, metering and accuracy were just fine, and no big mess; neither !


With regards,
357Mag
 
I use the RCBS uniflow measure for my .44 and .357. The fine H110 grains meter perfectly for me and I"ve never lost a grain unless I drop my reloading tray! I also use H335 (which is like dust) in my dillion progressive for .223 and have no clean up problems there either.
 
I have not had the problem with my Culver, Lyman, RCBS, measures

what drop tube are you suing, be sure it is the right fit so all powder goes in the case, also, let the powder drop before cycling to the next step. I have used and Ammo master II for years and learned to let the stroke for the powder drop have an extra few seconds for the powder to drop, the fine 11o is light per piece and does not drop like a larger ball or stick powder.

Bob
 
Thanks folks, the question on drop tubes got me thinking.
I have been using a Lyman 55 for many years and a Lee Perfect for a few, both with their standard drop tubes.. My first and only load with H110 is 19 grs. for a 30 Fireball. Charges were dropped directly into some newly formed cases. The cases for the this were made from 223 Lapus brass with the shoulder cut off and a 30 cal neck formed. Cases were trimmed to length, necks skim turned to .0125'' and a very light chamfer cut inside and outside the mouth. There is enough of a flat left on top of the case mouth to catch some of the tiny powder flakes. When the case is removed from the drop tube the flakes fall away. There may only be a few flakes sitting on each case mouth making it hard to notice but round after round it could explain the mess on my fingers and on the bench.

A caliber specific drop tube would likely solve the problem but there is also the fact that some of the H110 flakes get jammed between the drum and body. The Lyman measure is an older orange colored one that I never liked. I would like to try a new measure just out of curiousity. The Hornady, RCBS and Redding measures all work on the same principal but how to find out which one would handle H110 the best?
 
If you're dealing with H110, I assume your loads are in the 15 to 30 gr range. I have been using the RCBS "Little Dandy" measure with great consistency, good speed, and the only loss is due carelessness on my part. The short drop tube is integrall and works from 7mm to 45 LC. Its possible to fine tune the rotors to a specific wgt with a bit of patience.
 
Recently I ran into a situation where the mouths of 7mmWSM cases did not make contact with the inside of my plastic universal powder funnel. The shoulders hit first preventing the case mouth from forming a seal against the ID of the funnels bottom opening. I managed a work around. My point is that it might be a good idea to check to see if your measures drop tube is stopping cases on their shoulders rather than on the case mouth. In the past, I have shot a lot of ball powder and not run into the problem that you describe.
 

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