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Marlin barrel?

Is it a Marlin Marlin barrel or a Remington Marlin barrel or a Ruger marlin barrel. The problem I ran into with my Remington Marlin was no one would make the barrel period.
 
I had an early micro groove that was handed down and made
by Marlin in the early 60's.....Yeah, the way I understand it, The
Remington group, or whatever it was called, bought up Marlin
then Ruger took it over from Remington when they went bankrupt.
 
Marlin barrels are not screwed into the receiver. They are pinned in. All you need to do is knock out the pin and pull the barrel out. A gunsmith can contour a barrel to fit. Given that Marlin is long out of the rimfire rifle business, I doubt there are any pre-fits.
 
I don't know who built this one but it says Marlin made in Kentucky.
I like the rifle. Fit and finish seems a little better than a Savage. I made a big mistake. I had an old one that was beat up and didn't look too good. I bought this much nicer newer one at a gun show. The old one was incredibly accurate. I put the old one on consignment at a local gun store before I even tried this new one. When I scoped it and saw how poorly it shot I called the gun store to tell them not to sell the old one. Of course it was sold the day before. I like this one if it would shoot decent. I tried two known good scopes and several types of smooth no luck. I need a barrel.
 
I don't know who built this one but it says Marlin made in Kentucky.
I like the rifle. Fit and finish seems a little better than a Savage. I made a big mistake. I had an old one that was beat up and didn't look too good. I bought this much nicer newer one at a gun show. The old one was incredibly accurate. I put the old one on consignment at a local gun store before I even tried this new one. When I scoped it and saw how poorly it shot I called the gun store to tell them not to sell the old one. Of course it was sold the day before. I like this one if it would shoot decent. I tried two known good scopes and several types of smooth no luck. I need a barrel.
Have you checked the crown? I bought a Ruger 10/22 once that wouldn't hit the broad side of a barn. Turned out the crown wasn't completely cleaned up.
 
Have you checked the crown? I bought a Ruger 10/22 once that wouldn't hit the broad side of a barn. Turned out the crown wasn't completely cleaned up.
I ran a qtip in there and it didn't snag, but maybe I should check it better. Hard to find a gunsmith with a bore scope that fits 17 caliber.
 
Have you gave it a GOOD cleaning?
I cleaned it with Butches Bore Shine. This rifle is in virtually new condition. I presume the original owner didn't like the performance and traded it off. Now I'm stuck with it. I'd like to fix it. It has a two pound trigger and four extra magazines. This rifle would be a great pickup gun to take out in a prairie dog town. I just don't want it to cost more than my tricked out CZ.
 
There are low cost, no cost options to improve accuracy with rimfires. If you're handy, you might want to bed the receiver. Bedding with aluminum tape is easy and works surprisingly well! Experimenting with the action screw torque values can make a major difference as well. I always start at 15 inch-pounds and work up if necessary to 35 or so. Finally, add a small rubber block under the barrel starting about 1 inch past the receiver and move it down in increments of a half inch until you find a good harmonic node.
 
There are low cost, no cost options to improve accuracy with rimfires. If you're handy, you might want to bed the receiver. Bedding with aluminum tape is easy and works surprisingly well! Experimenting with the action screw torque values can make a major difference as well. I always start at 15 inch-pounds and work up if necessary to 35 or so. Finally, add a small rubber block under the barrel starting about 1 inch past the receiver and move it down in increments of a half inch until you find a good harmonic node.
Thanks for the tips. I'm going to have a gunsmith check the crown. I'll try that when I get it back.
 
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Please don't fry me for this.......but I have taken a brass round head screw and covered it in lapping compound and put it in a drill and polished the crown. I figured it was messed up anyway, what can it hurt. I think it actually helped a little. Not making it a bench gun but did tighten up the groups a little.
 
They aren't drop-in, but 10/22 barrels can be used if you turn down the shank... if you are careful enough, you can even use the chamber already cut in the 10/22 barrel.

There is a guy with a green mountain 10/22 fluted barrel on his Marlin 980 bolt rifle. I have seen it in old posts on other forums... like 10 years ago, dude's screen tag was EK-Marlin, or some shit like that.

I'm just going to bite the bullet and eventually order a custom barrel for my Marlin 880SS... it is a Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation edition rifle with a metal stamp on the synthetic stock it came with, so I want to keep that... it was also my first rifle, which I won in a raffle at the end of my hunter's education class, so [for me] it is worth the expense... I'm probably going to get a Lilja 3-groove, 9 twist, 222/215 "tight bore" stainless barrel finished at 19.5" with the Bentz chamber... might as well get exactly what I want if I am going to pay for it.
 
My marlin 17hmr XT 17 varmint was a complete dog of a rifle for so long. A custom stock, a good pillar and glass bedding job and a fresh recrown job turned it into an accurate rifle. It also likes a fast lot of CCI VNT ammo that runs 2810fps verified with Garmin Doppler radar. Give it some work and try some faster ammo, it may come to life…
 

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