marine tex residue removal??

[LB243]

I just finished doing a bedding job on my savage f class rifle. I tried to use a couple new products instead of my usual materials, I was using johnson floor wax as a release agent and marine tex as the bedding agent. After I had set the barreled action in the stock with the bedding material I used q-tips and dentured alcohol to clean up the excess. Well the alcohol must have removed the wax and now I have very thin bedding material on my action I cant get off. Does anyone have any pointers on how I could get this off? and still keep the blueing on? any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

 

[mikelucas]

HEAT!!!

 

[Rustystud]

acetone, and elbo grease.

Nat Lambeth

 

[LHSmith]

Next time, substitute vinegar for the alcohol.

 

[Rustystud]

After 40+ years of bedding rifles and many different methods here is a few suggestions.

I buy my fiberglass resin by the gallon at marine or automotive suppliers. You can buy it by the pint or quart also.

I buy my polyester filler at a marine supply house. It comes in multiple different sizes,grain/density). What I buy is about the density of flour.

I buy my coloring pigments at a marine supply. Some folks use paint color pigments. I am not sure what paint pigments are made of and if oil based they would interfere with the fiberglass catalyst action.

I save the containers that pudding/yogurt comes in and wash them out. Just about the perfect size and you don't feel guilty about throwing them away.

You can mix the resin and filler to the density of your choosing. It took me many years to figure out what suits my bedding needs the best.

I use Johnson Paste,cabana wax) as my release agent. put it on with a tooth brush liberally.

Acetone is the best solvent.

If you are beding a lug area open it up enough to make the lug completely enclosed in the new glass compound. You need to undercut your hole in the stock so as the bedding can not comeback out when you remove the stock. Most precision ground lus are extremely long and can be machined off some.

I suggest you open up the lug area and do your pillars first. Get them open the pillar holes up so they can align with out any stress. Then glass them in. make sure you have your bottom metal aligned too.

I mix the glass resin to the concistency of epoxy glue for the pillars. I coat both the pillar and the ID of the hole in the stock. I suggest you put release agent inside the pillar with a Q-tip. I use a lot of Q-tips in the clean-up.

I mix the the glass/polester filler for the lug area to the concistency of tooth paste. Make sure you have no air pockets. When the action goes into the voids in the stock it displaces the excess,gives one a good example of Archametes principle). I immediately remove the excess with a popcycle stick, Q-tips,and tooth picks. I use enought hardner to set the fiberglass mixture in about an hour. Complete hardness in 24 hours. While the glass is still rubbery I remove the action from the stock by bumping it out with a rubber hammer. Then I use a sharp exacto knife trim the excess. The the following day I use sand paper to clean up the rough edges. Any voids can be filled with automotive spackling then sanded and painted.

Remember any screw up can be fixed but it will be a mess. in otherwords don't take it out of the fiberglass until it has set up and has no liquid between the top and bottom.

I open my stocks up completely, then tape them with masking tape in every area I don't want any fiber glass. I keep about 4-5 sets of nytrile gloves on the table to change out during the process. A good stock vice, threaded guides, rubber inner tube strips, and wood clamps are a must.

If you use metal pillars make sure the top is cut to fit the radius the action and are turned to fit the action. I use a parting tool to groove the pillars to provide a ruff surface for the glass to grip. Make sure there is no oil or release agent on the outside of the pillars. I make sure I have release agent in all holes in the action and any surface I don't want fiberglass sticking to.

If you don't make a mess the first time then you have not followed the instructions closely enough.

Hope this is helpful.

Nat Lambeth