The muzzle crown, being the last thing to touch the bullet, is way too critical to accuracy for me to ever shove a high speed steel pilot in the bore and yank around on it with a drill trying to cut the crown. No matter how much or what type of oil you put on it there is just never anything good that can come from having steel spinning around on your rifling that is about 12 times harder than the rifling itself. I wouldn't recommend that you do that in any part of the bore...let alone the muzzle!!!! It's a bad tool...take the rifle to a gunsmith that owns a lathe and make certain to have it done on the lathe.
If you have a completely wasted crown and zero possibility of getting it on a lathe then I guess it is better than nothing. But. at the end of the day, be prepared to probably loose 1/2"- 1" of barrel.
Thank you for the insight, I will consider strongly this info.The muzzle crown, being the last thing to touch the bullet, is way too critical to accuracy for me to ever shove a high speed steel pilot in the bore and yank around on it with a drill trying to cut the crown. No matter how much or what type of oil you put on it there is just never anything good that can come from having steel spinning around on your rifling that is about 12 times harder than the rifling itself. I wouldn't recommend that you do that in any part of the bore...let alone the muzzle!!!! It's a bad tool...take the rifle to a gunsmith that owns a lathe and make certain to have it done on the lathe.
If you have a completely wasted crown and zero possibility of getting it on a lathe then I guess it is better than nothing. But. at the end of the day, be prepared to probably loose 1/2"- 1" of barrel.
Thanks for insight, I will consider strongly.The muzzle crown, being the last thing to touch the bullet, is way too critical to accuracy for me to ever shove a high speed steel pilot in the bore and yank around on it with a drill trying to cut the crown. No matter how much or what type of oil you put on it there is just never anything good that can come from having steel spinning around on your rifling that is about 12 times harder than the rifling itself. I wouldn't recommend that you do that in any part of the bore...let alone the muzzle!!!! It's a bad tool...take the rifle to a gunsmith that owns a lathe and make certain to have it done on the lathe.
If you have a completely wasted crown and zero possibility of getting it on a lathe then I guess it is better than nothing. But. at the end of the day, be prepared to probably loose 1/2"- 1" of barrel.
Thanks, have slight crown damage on .270 110 confirmed by bore scope at local smith, thought about doing myself, Manson crowning system looks too easy to be true but I like the idea of the stationary pilot not turning in the bore, having parkerized after repair when I confirm return to moa grouping.The live pilot ones work well ive heard from reliable sources. Ive only ever done one on a lathe but need to get one for an automatic rifle touch up
What is a live pilot ?The live pilot ones hurt the bore exactly as much as a chamber reamer
Thanks roger, that makes sense, looking for confidence to do something I never done before.HI "2",,,as you can see you get lots of gunsmithing advice from folks who have no gunsmithing knowledge,,,a floating pilot is a cylindrical bushing or "wheel" that is placed in the bore (muzzle) that does NOT rotate with the crowning tool,,,thus nothing that is turning is touching the bore,,,,this is how all good chamber reamers are made also (with floating pilot) ,,,,you can do this simple task yourself,,,let us know how it turns out,,,Roger
Thanks, have slight crown damage on .270 110 confirmed by bore scope at local smith, thought about doing myself, Manson crowning system looks too easy to be true but I like the idea of the stationary pilot not turning in the bore, having parkerized after repair when I confirm return to moa grouping.
Thanks roger, that makes sense, looking for confidence to do something I never done before.
What is 12 times harder? Hardness of materials is expressed in HRc, or HRV, etc. I'm at a total loss what you're taking about. Could you care to explain, please, using some technical terms as opposed to free style definitions?And those on here that have never used this tool and/or seen a muzzle crown ruined will give you all the confidence you need. There is a real big difference between a chambering reamer cutting a chamber and this tool that is NOT being taken into account here...the reamer and barrel have been dialed {should have been anyway} up to be in perfect alignment BEFORE the cutting/turning begins. Having this ridiculous little tool chucked up in a drill motor that you try but cannot hold in any kind of alignment while spinning in the bore is just not at all the same and cannot be compared. I would further tell you that even if you have the piloted version, that pilot is still about 12 times harder than the bore. You certainly wouldn't consider cleaning the bore with a cleaning rod made out of tool steel, why consider putting this thing in the bore either???
People buy these tools and either cannot shoot good enough to see the damage they caused or don't want to admit they messed up and blew the money...so they will recommend that you do the same. Do as you wish...I hope it works out for you, but I would not be too quick to run on back to that borescope after you cut the crown with a piloted {dead or live} tool!!! You are in for a disappointment.
"Been making them for 15 years"??? That's because they have been selling them to unsuspecting people {of which there is no shortage} for as long as they will buy. Simple business, but that don't make it effective for you. The old rule "if it sounds to good to be true...it usually is!!!!" A hand turned $50.00 tool is going to replace and do as good a job as a $10,000 lathe??? Right...one only has to look at the other end of the barrel for your answer. Ask these educated and experienced "gunsmiths" how many chambers they cut by hand with a drill motor while the barrel is chucked up in a bench vise!!!
Thanks to all for info. I have watched every video and read every review, called Manson reamers and spoke with them yesterday, the guide or pilot remains stationary in bore, due to its longer length it is held in more precise alignment with the bore than the shorter attached pilots of other crowning reamers, is turned slowly by hand the achieve a square and smooth cut.It's a good tool and I've used it with success. Now that I have a lathe, I don't need the tool, but Dave Manson makes good products. Some people want to make creating a crown sound like heart surgery, but it's not. The only real requirement is that the crown be burr-free. People have done test with all kinds of crazy crown designs, to include cutting the end off with a hack saw. They all work fine so long as the actual crown is burr free...a q-tip will tell you the answer there.