Making a Blaine Eddy plate - input?

[wkndwarrior]

I don't recall if it was here, or another forum - but I've seen a few posts about this neck sizing plate recently. Being relatively new to the game this was the first I've heard of it, and after surfing the interwebs for more time than I'd like to admit - I didn't find much detailed discussion regarding the design. It got me thinking that sounds like a fun project and will help me rationalize purchasing a 115pc drill bit set that I've been wanting.

For those that haven't seen the video:

So, my notes while watching the video, he has 21 holes and a 35 degree chamfer. He was recommending using 1/2 steel plate and adding a 30 degree chamfer on the opposite side. This is what he listed
.336, .329, .325, .305, .302, .295, .282 (24 cal), .276, .269 (22 cal), .248, .242 (20 Cal), .234, .220, .211, .205, .204 - noted as probably not necessary, .202, .199 (17 cal), .195, .180, .169 (14 cal).

Does anyone have one of his plates, or one that you fabricated, that could comment on any changes/improvements? I am wondering if there's a real difference in results between steel and aluminum for the plate, mainly because I have some aluminum scraps.

I don't have a specific need at this time, but I'm always looking for a new to me rifle in an interesting caliber - so this seems like something good to have on hand. Posting here in 'wildcat' sub hoping for most input.

 

[chester999]

Don't know anything about the plate, but brass is harder than aluminum.

 

[AndyA]

I made one out of A2 and hardened it. Works pretty well but took more horsepower to form the cases than I thought. I necked a .357 mag case down to .17 with it. Lube definitely helped.

Aluminum will not work and more than likely will weld to the case.

 

[wkndwarrior]

I made one out of A2 and hardened it. Works pretty well but took more horsepower to form the cases than I thought. I necked a .357 mag case down to .17 with it. Lube definitely helped.

Aluminum will not work and more than likely will weld to the case.

Thanks for that info, I'll have to dig around my scrap pile some more.

 

[chester999]

I made one out of A2 and hardened it. Works pretty well but took more horsepower to form the cases than I thought. I necked a .357 mag case down to .17 with it. Lube definitely helped.

Aluminum will not work and more than likely will weld to the case.

So a bench top drill press wouldn't cut it. I had borrowed the dies to form my 17-357 Max cases. I have to form some more brass and the gunsmith I got them from has since passed on. I've been collecting different dies and cutting them down for the different steps. It's a long process using dies.

 

[Gabe22BR]

I made one. I used 1/2” mild steel plate. Seen no reason to use a harder material- Aluminum will wear, or bend.
Then made 2 more for friends-

Don’t forget to trim & anneal as you go-

Very few drill bits out of the 115pc are used- most are metric, for what that’s worth…best if you got them individually, probably cheaper…
You can make any holes you need, or add to it-


I found this:

Don’t know if this guy knows what he’s talking about or not…..

 

[LRPV]

Why have I never seen any of this magic?

 

[hoz53]

I don't recall if it was here, or another forum - but I've seen a few posts about this neck sizing plate recently. Being relatively new to the game this was the first I've heard of it, and after surfing the interwebs for more time than I'd like to admit - I didn't find much detailed discussion regarding the design. It got me thinking that sounds like a fun project and will help me rationalize purchasing a 115pc drill bit set that I've been wanting.

For those that haven't seen the video:

So, my notes while watching the video, he has 21 holes and a 35 degree chamfer. He was recommending using 1/2 steel plate and adding a 30 degree chamfer on the opposite side. This is what he listed
.336, .329, .325, .305, .302, .295, .282 (24 cal), .276, .269 (22 cal), .248, .242 (20 Cal), .234, .220, .211, .205, .204 - noted as probably not necessary, .202, .199 (17 cal), .195, .180, .169 (14 cal).

Does anyone have one of his plates, or one that you fabricated, that could comment on any changes/improvements? I am wondering if there's a real difference in results between steel and aluminum for the plate, mainly because I have some aluminum scraps.

I don't have a specific need at this time, but I'm always looking for a new to me rifle in an interesting caliber - so this seems like something good to have on hand. Posting here in 'wildcat' sub hoping for most input.

i didnt watch the whole video but i got the drift. good idea i hadnt thought of. i may make
one of these plates. ill watch the rest before i make more comments thanks

 

[wkndwarrior]

I made one. I used 1/2” mild steel plate. Seen no reason to use a harder material- Aluminum will wear, or bend.
Then made 2 more for friends-

Don’t forget to trim & anneal as you go-

Very few drill bits out of the 115pc are used- most are metric, for what that’s worth…best if you got them individually, probably cheaper…
You can make any holes you need, or add to it-

Thank you for the heads up, I didn't dig into the exact drill bit sizes too much and had just assumed that the 115 piece would cover it. Now this has opened up an opportunity to look for a metric set as well!

 

[wkndwarrior]

So a bench top drill press wouldn't cut it. I had borrowed the dies to form my 17-357 Max cases. I have to form some more brass and the gunsmith I got them from has since passed on. I've been collecting different dies and cutting them down for the different steps. It's a long process using dies.

I don't know why I've never heard of a 17-357 Max before, now I feel like I need to have one.

 

[chester999]

L to R .17 AH, .17 Fireball that's long gone, 17-357 Max, .17 Remington

 

[pertnear]

I've been interested in this plate for a while. I've looked & haven't found anyone that has one. I first saw this video on a Saubier's & no one had an original plate. If someone cares to make some I'd like to buy one. Looks like mild steel is good enough & I doubt any holes under .20 cal would be worthwhile.

BTW: Back when I was a bowhunter & made my own arrows. I use to buy my aluminum shafts from a guy that used a similar method to taper the shaft ends so you could glue-on broadheads. Made a lighter stronger head.

 

[Gabe22BR]

I've been interested in this plate for a while. I've looked & haven't found anyone that has one. I first saw this video on a Saubier's & no one had an original plate. If someone cares to make some I'd like to buy one. Looks like mild steel is good enough & I doubt any holes under .20 cal would be worthwhile.

BTW: Back when I was a bowhunter & made my own arrows. I use to buy my aluminum shafts from a guy that used a similar method to taper the shaft ends so you could glue-on broadheads. Made a lighter stronger head.

Only make the holes YOU need ..
this all I need-





Edit:
Don’t forget to anneal & trim, & (turn if required)

 

[Ackman]

This is Blaine's plate. It's one he gave me back when he'd started making them. 1/2" steel. No numbers stamped except for calibers. Its been around for a long time and acquired some discoloration spots.

 

[chester999]

This is Blaine's plate. It's one he gave me back when he'd started making them. 1/2" steel. No numbers stamped except for calibers. Its been around for a long time and acquired some discoloration spots.

Gabe22BR I'm thinking I'll need this many holes.

 

[pertnear]

I planned to make one for myself, as I have a table top drill press. But I'm at a loss of where to get the plate, individual drill bits & the 30 & 35 degree chamfer bits. I agree I'd probably never mess with anything smaller than .224 or larger than .308.

 

[wkndwarrior]

This is Blaine's plate. It's one he gave me back when he'd started making them. 1/2" steel. No numbers stamped except for calibers. Its been around for a long time and acquired some discoloration spots.

Thank you for sharing that, it has a few more sizes than when he did the video. If you have a chance would you be able to share the hole spacing and any other measurements you care to take? From the video the largest caliber that he had labelled was 24 - so it would be interesting to know what size holes the rest were. You were lucky to know him, seems like an interesting guy.

And of course, I understand that I may not need all of these sizes - but 'might as well make it if it fits on the scrap that I found.

pertnear, I'll keep track of which drill bits I use. I like to buy them through zoro which is the parent company of grainger. Another good company is mcmaster carr. I like zoro because if you create an account and build a cart you'll get a 20% coupon soon enough, shipping is free and good customer service. Only disadvantage is that you pretty much need to know part numbers to navigate the website. I did order countersink bits from north bay cutting tools, 13503204 and 31085. If I can find a second piece of plate maybe I'll make two while I'm at it. Not looking to make a profit though, as this is not my original idea. I think I have a bunch of 1/4 or 3/8 steel if it's thick enough to get the countersink in. I'll need to check a few things when the drill bits show up.

 

[chester999]

I planned to make one for myself, as I have a table top drill press. But I'm at a loss of where to get the plate, individual drill bits & the 30 & 35 degree chamfer bits. I agree I'd probably never mess with anything smaller than .224 or larger than .308.

I'm not sure the chamfer needs to be perfect. You can set final shoulder angle in fl die. When I form I usually step down in .5 mm increments with dies.

 

[JohnW...ski]

Below is a picture of what I did. It was done when you could buy used bushings for a reasonable price, unlike today.

Modified dies: the two on the left are bushing dies that have been cut down to accept extremely short cartridges.​

They will work with longer cartridges as well since they are only meant for reducing the neck diameter a small

amount at a time. The die on the right is a modified neck die for .224 caliber but does not accept bushings.

 

[Fuj]

Being a wildcatter for many years, I'll stick with dies and mandrels. Very
seldom that I do a simple neck up or down a cat. Mine will always involve
a deep draw on it's body......The plate as mentioned; you better use some
type of positive stop to keep it from getting away from you. That would be
a big ouch.......

Got ya' beat John......LOL