Making 6.5BRX brass?

[solid_squirrel]

Ha, thanks Bozo, that's so validating.

Yes, Robert, I'd at least like to have that ability. I figured the 6.5mm would be a little more versatile.

 

[Spook]

Feeds fine from PRI 6.8 mags, I like the shorter version. I fireform mine in a bolt action...6,6.5,30 cal and .375 before sending them through the AR's.
If I didnt have that option I think I'd make myself a hydro-form.

Spook,
Sounds like you know from experience with the ar's but I remember when I decided to go 6brx I studied on them for 6 months or so before I committed and built my first 6brx, I remember in all the questions the hydro dies came up, the guys that had experience with them all said they had problems at least with the brx's having case head separation after two or three loadings, they said it stretched the case in the web to much, have you used a hydro forming die before? if so did you notice this as well?
Wayne.

Wayne, yes but not for 6BRX, no, but I believe it might be possible if you wail away on the plunger trying to get a fully formed case.
I make my own H-F from 7/8,SS, all-thread with a cap that keeps the case from any backward movement. One day I'll get real ambitious and make a cap with an extension that fills the primer pocket.
The part that seems odd.... why would cases stretch in the web , when the brass is so much thinner (and annealed) where the movement is supposed to happen? Sorta defies logic dont it?

I have had 300 IMHSA come apart in the fashion you describe. Could never figure out why

 

[bozo699]

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I have had 300 IMHSA come apart in the fashion you describe. Could never figure out why
[/quote]
Took me a little bit but that's funny right there

 

[solid_squirrel]

Decided to put the 6.5BRX project on pause (or a longer time-frame), take smaller bites, build a 16" .223 Wylde, and try to cut my teeth on that. That way I'll have a finished product, and be able to start plinking and shooting some groups sooner. I'm gonna keep collecting the materials and info for the 6.5BRX in the meantime.

Hydroforming sounds doable.

 

[mr45man]

There are several sellers in the clasifieds that are selling 7mm BR.
Its a lot easier to neck down to 6.5 IMO.
John H.

 

[constructor]

We've sold 60-70 6BRX, 6.5BR and 6.5BRXs this year and only 1 guy is having a feeding problem with a 6BRX using PRI mags just this last week, the neck is getting hung up in the lug groove. 10 rounds fit and work fine from a 15 round PRI mag. We've been using Gen 1 mags since we purchased all they had but now know how to modify the Gen 3s to release the cartridges as smooth as the Gen 1 does. We've sold about 200 bolts and extension sets which have been made into everything possible 30Rem AR, 458 Socom, a 44 cal based on a 284 case, 30BRs. etc. The 6.5BRX is pushing 123gr bullets to 2850fps and the 6BRX is pushing 105s to 3000+ from a 22" barrel so the performance is there. Satern Machining may start using the bolts soon to make custom 1 offs since we just don't have the time to build custom rifles now.
I'll agree someone that has not used ARs and has never reloaded probably doesn't want to tackle any wildcat. The 6.5BR would be easier since there is no fire-forming involved but, the 5.56 would be the place to start then after mastering regular reloading practices and the AR system you can step up to a wildcat later.
I create false shoulders when fireforming in ARs because there is no way to force the bolt closed except by battering the cartridge with the bolt that contains a floating firing pin. The pin can't contact the primer until locked in battery but just not a good idea to slam the bolt on a cartridge a few times. It's best to size the case up to 7mm then size part of the neck back down to 6.5 by holding the die .100 above the shell holder. It's a simple thing for those of us that have been reloading for ever but some are kind of spooked by it. The forming charge should be the same as the parent cartridge load, in this case 32gr of Varget or RE15.

 

[solid_squirrel]

mr45man, thanks for pointing that out.

constructor, I don't personally have any doubts about the feeding with the proper setup, it's just, like you said, I thought I should start with the 5.56, learning the fundamentals through that more common cartridge, just as you said.

I also got some other advice regarding loading for the .223 Wylde, I'd be interested to hear what you think of it. I intend to do a lot of experimentation in any case, just generally speaking, I just want to learn as much as possible.

I'd suggest benchmark for 65/68/69s and 8208 for 75/77

I'd go with virgin LC, Win, or RP brass. Bolt gun I run Lapua, not in a gas gun.

GM205M or BR4 for primer. I've never had an issue with either in my ARs

.
ETA: As you say, about necking up to 7mm...does that mean I'm to take it that you share mr45man's opinion that it's easier/equivalent to simply start with 7BR brass?

 

[constructor]

around 24gr of Re15 with 69 and 77gr SMKs has been to go to load for years.
7mmBR brass is Rem, I don't use anything Remington so for me I use a sinclair expander die and E28 mandrel then size back down.
I would NOT use fed match primers in a auto loader with a floating firing pin. CCI450, CCI41 work fine, BR4s have also worked with no problems.

 

[solid_squirrel]

Yikes, I see that there is a possible scenario where GM205M can cause slam-fires in something like an AR, with a floating firing pin. Looks like one should use GM205MAR primers, if anything.

What is your favorite brass for ARs?