the long shot,
You're on the right track here with the materials you've already got on hand. Nothing slower than the 4895/4064/RL-15 range, and no bullets heavier than the 175s and you're likely good to go. Remember, the Garands can be damaged by loads that are perfectly safe in terms of chamber pressure, if the port pressures are too high. That's caused by using too slow a powder, and is simple enough to remedy. The issue here is bending the op rods, which are getting ever harder to replace these days.
Also, the Garands were designed around bullets no heavier than 175 grains, and will perform best if you stick within those parameters. I've seen a few that were set up for heavier bullets, but that's the key right there; "set up for." Smaller gas ports, and other changes of that nature, to mitigate the battering that otherwise results. Besides, there's precious little you'd ever want to do with an M1 that a 175 won't accomplish with ease.
Lastly, in any semi-auto, the choice between F/L and N/S is no choice at all; Full Length size, always, without fail. The only exception to this is if you choose to use Small Base dies, which is a perfectly good choice for the Garand. Just a little added insurance there, and that's never a bad thing. You may also want to get used to the idea of three firings, and toss, on a case. Like it or not, the Garands (as well as the M14s that followed them), are brutally, mercilessly and horribly hard on brass. Just the way it is, and there's not a bunch you can do about it, short of converting it to a straight-pull bolt design by disabling the gas system. Great rifles and quite a history to them, but they do have some quirks when it comes to loading.