Looking for micro TIG/lasar welding service
- Thread starter AlNyhus
- Start date
ELR LVR
Silver $$ Contributor
what is your definition of "MICRO" within the term TIG
micro by definition is millionth, and nothing gun related is done in the millionths scale.
I don't know of any TIG machines that can strike an arc to facilitate "MICRO" Tig welds
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I have Tig welded razor blades together, and that still requires 6 Amps to even get the Arc established
Razors are not Micro
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I can do some fairly small welds with my Miller
However for anything finer than this, a more specialized machine is needed
Like an Aerowave or a Dynasty, or something even of newer tech.
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Keep in mind, depending on the parent metal, some are more difficult to establish an arc and sometimes fight keeping a nice smooth uniform puddle the more carbon the steel has in it.
(IE: some gun parts can be difficult to produce as nice of a weld as say Stainless)
Whatever project you are doing, the welder would need to know the composition of the parent metal to closely as possible match the composition with the filler metal
Otherwise your part may have to be simply open to experimentation.
For example I've welded some things that resisted welding, not being able to tell the parent metals composition, requiring a little trial and error, sometimes it ends up bubbling, which wreaks havoc
Something you think is steel may be cast iron or something having an unknown percentage of (Carbon)
And if experimented on, well, may not turn out pretty unless you know exactly what its composition is.
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For instance, I may be able to TIG small, IF, I know what the metal is
without knowing, I have to try different filler metals such as Nickel, Silicon Bronze etc
This type of work may not be cheap
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To get what you want, you must be very specific, because welders like myself, you have to treat more more like a metallurgical engineer, ....we don't like to have to -- guess.
Be very specific in what you are looking for with no vague descriptions, try not to generalize and expect the other guy to just "Know" what you are talking about, guys like me are very specific,
you get what you ask, if you don't ask and don't specify or call out tolerances etc, you then leave it up to the other guy to generalize or make it work and get what you get. Make sense?
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If you need finer than what I am showing here, maybe look for F1 Chassis welders
---Pic 1 is .050" wall , 1/2" OD SS tubing
(when I say be specific, dont do things like call tubing, Pipe)
---Pics 2-5 are of a Rocker arm I had to repair for a Polaris engine, Filler rod used was .040" dia drill rod held with small Hemostats, drill rod which closely resembles the attributes of the hardness and toughness of the rocker face, then surfaced down to flush again after filling the gouge.
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Regardless, if you don't require smaller than what I am showing here, I MAY be able to do what you need, but need more info
Regards,
John
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I'm needing the cocking tab on a firing pin assembly welded back for a Sako P 94. Looking for that person or company that has that special skill set to do the job.
Give these guys a call
They used to run a full FFL / Store / Gunsmithing from this same location. It was an old bank and you walk in to a vault for the gun shop. Their gun shop used to be called Pullman Arms.
They still maintain their FFL, but closed their retail shop. But they still do gun smithing, but their primary business is Micro Welding.
microarcwelding.com
This was their shop name/URL as you can see by the contact email it's the same business
Link to their FFL license
www.ffls.com
They used to run a full FFL / Store / Gunsmithing from this same location. It was an old bank and you walk in to a vault for the gun shop. Their gun shop used to be called Pullman Arms.
They still maintain their FFL, but closed their retail shop. But they still do gun smithing, but their primary business is Micro Welding.
Micro Arc Welding | Precision Micro Welding & Manufacturing
Micro Arc Welding delivers precision micro welding, laser welding, TIG welding, and prototype manufacturing for high-accuracy industrial applications.
microarcwelding.com
This was their shop name/URL as you can see by the contact email it's the same business
Link to their FFL license
Micro Arc Welding Inc, 33 PULLMAN ST, WORCESTER, MA | FFLs.com
Micro Arc Welding Inc, 33 PULLMAN ST, WORCESTER, MA 01606 FFL Number 6-04-027-07-7M-03832 expires 12/1/2027.
www.ffls.com
Thank you Sir.Give these guys a call
They used to run a full FFL / Store / Gunsmithing from this same location. It was an old bank and you walk in to a vault for the gun shop. Their gun shop used to be called Pullman Arms.
They still maintain their FFL, but closed their retail shop. But they still do gun smithing, but their primary business is Micro Welding.
Micro Arc Welding | Precision Micro Welding & Manufacturing
Micro Arc Welding delivers precision micro welding, laser welding, TIG welding, and prototype manufacturing for high-accuracy industrial applications.
This was their shop name/URL as you can see by the contact email it's the same business
Link to their FFL license
Micro Arc Welding Inc, 33 PULLMAN ST, WORCESTER, MA | FFLs.com
Micro Arc Welding Inc, 33 PULLMAN ST, WORCESTER, MA 01606 FFL Number 6-04-027-07-7M-03832 expires 12/1/2027.
ELR LVR
Silver $$ Contributor
They actually advertise "Micro" welding,Micro Arc Welding | Precision Micro Welding & Manufacturing
Micro Arc Welding delivers precision micro welding, laser welding, TIG welding, and prototype manufacturing for high-accuracy industrial applications.
This was their shop name/URL as you can see by the contact email it's the same business
looks like the place to call
AlNyhus
Silver $$ Contributor
Ok...so here's what I'm working with. I mentioned this on here some time ago, also.
It's a McMillan single shot action. The forward tab of the cocking piece (that goes into the cocking cam helix of the bolt) has broken off. The broken piece is nowhere to be found.
I've beat the bushes looking for a new cocking piece to no avail. A very kind BR shooter (that has two of these actions) sent me one of his bolts so I could take measurements of the complete cocking piece. By those measurement and my own cipherin', here's what would work.
If the forward part from a 700 cocking piece could be cut off at an appropriate angle and grafted on to the existing cocking piece, that would work. Below is a 700 cocking piece with the cut angle roughly sketched.
The original cocking piece is a casting. The 700 graft piece I propose to use is from a non hard chromed early style 700.
So...my questions are whether either micro TIG or lasar welding could be used to join the two and have sufficient strength for the side load involved with opening the bolt?
Any thoughts or ideas appreciated. I'd sure like to get this action back into service for it's owner.
Thanks!
-Al
It's a McMillan single shot action. The forward tab of the cocking piece (that goes into the cocking cam helix of the bolt) has broken off. The broken piece is nowhere to be found.
I've beat the bushes looking for a new cocking piece to no avail. A very kind BR shooter (that has two of these actions) sent me one of his bolts so I could take measurements of the complete cocking piece. By those measurement and my own cipherin', here's what would work.
If the forward part from a 700 cocking piece could be cut off at an appropriate angle and grafted on to the existing cocking piece, that would work. Below is a 700 cocking piece with the cut angle roughly sketched.
The original cocking piece is a casting. The 700 graft piece I propose to use is from a non hard chromed early style 700.
So...my questions are whether either micro TIG or lasar welding could be used to join the two and have sufficient strength for the side load involved with opening the bolt?
Any thoughts or ideas appreciated. I'd sure like to get this action back into service for it's owner.
Thanks!
-AlAlNyhus
Silver $$ Contributor
While I don't disagree with this, I'd like to explore any and all options. The tail piece rides in a slot on the underside of the shroud as a guide. -Al
WSnyder
Silver $$ Contributor
I’m in this camp too. I never trust small weld repairs like that. They always seem to fail. Welding cast or MIM parts is an iffy thing as well and adds a big negative in my book.
Machine up some 4140 pre hard and nitride it.
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Walt Krafft
Gold $$ Contributor
The original cocking piece is probably MIM metal injection molded. Very very doubtfull you can be successfull welding on it.
DRK
Silver $$ Contributor
I agree with both of these, likely MIM or a sintered part. Have some wire you a new one out of S7 and harden it.
Send me a drawing, I have a guy with four wire machines looking for work. Wire you a handful for spares.
ELR LVR
Silver $$ Contributor
Im agreeing with the others here, in that welding a small piece to the front like that may be Iffy
if it were mine I would chance it, but only because I could continuously take it a step further each time it broke and repair it myself
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The next step further before making a whole new piece would be to mill the long tab off the top
the top cocking piece looks long and fairly flat, like a surf board
then weld the new long flat piece length wise, to the threaded bottom cast portion
this would provide a stronger legnthwise weld
but again - being a cast piece not knowing what it is made of, makes it iffy
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I am agreeing more that a whole new piece would be fairly easily made
it is fairly square on all sides with no compound curves.
A hand grinder and some files could even do it after first threading the center portion, using that threaded hole as a datum to measure the rest from.
Some Chromoly or annealed tool steel should work, then harden afterward
if it were mine I would chance it, but only because I could continuously take it a step further each time it broke and repair it myself
----
The next step further before making a whole new piece would be to mill the long tab off the top
the top cocking piece looks long and fairly flat, like a surf board
then weld the new long flat piece length wise, to the threaded bottom cast portion
this would provide a stronger legnthwise weld
but again - being a cast piece not knowing what it is made of, makes it iffy
---
I am agreeing more that a whole new piece would be fairly easily made
it is fairly square on all sides with no compound curves.
A hand grinder and some files could even do it after first threading the center portion, using that threaded hole as a datum to measure the rest from.
Some Chromoly or annealed tool steel should work, then harden afterward
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Al
With your skills, I would just get a hunk of O1 or stressproof and whittle out a new one. Would be a nice fun project.
With your skills, I would just get a hunk of O1 or stressproof and whittle out a new one. Would be a nice fun project.
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