loctite

[lpreddick]

recently had a one holer spray and found the hex nuts on the nightforce bases were loose! i overlooked checking such on a regular basis. i was advised to use loctite red to prevent this again. i've known of this product but was under the impression it was a permanent "locking"of the screws, bolts, bases. i was told the bond could be released by heating the screw/bolt with a soldering iron. is this true? is the use of the red product advised to avoid my problem. i shoot a lot of fairly heavy recoilers. as always, i appreciate any advice.

 

[watercam]

There are two types - blue and red. Blue is less than permanent and can be removed with minimal effort with normal hand tools. Red is the type you describe and is intended to be permanent (exceptions to heat). Buy Blue and you will be good to go!

 

[necchi]

I use Blue.
I take care to be sure the screws and tapped holes are absolutely clean, dry and free of oils.
Loctite does make a prep solution, I use Denatured Alcohol and canned air.
(air compressors can have water or oil in the line)

 

[Steve Blair]

I use a 68 lb/in torque wrench on my Nightforce rings. A quick click before heading to the range and there is never a problem. [br]

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=45631/Product/NIGHTFORCE-TORQUE-WRENCH

 

[kentuckytroutbum]

There is also a Loctite Purple which I use on parts that I anticipate will have to be separated at a later date, and is less permanent that Red or Blue. But Red can be loosened with a propane torch on low, or as others have said a soldering iron (gun).

 

[chino1969]

A good rule of thumb is to degrease your screws and threaded holes with CRC brake cleaner before assembly. Loctite red is the stronger bond but can be removed with heat. A properly prepped and torqued fastener should not loosen if assembled in this fashion. For those applications requiring absolute and permanent tightness, as in military applications, I would do all the above followed with a drop of nail polish on each of the fastener heads. If they manage to loosen, you'll see a crack in the polish.

 

[markm87]

I don't use either flavor of loctite. I've found that vibratite VC-3 is more user friendly. It puts a rubber like red coating on the threads that's reusable.

You can pretreat fastiners. Sets up in like 10 minutes and can used anytime after. The fastiner doesn't have to be used immediately.

 

[wwbrown]

I use loctite red on my bases and blue on my rings, blue is easy enough to get off without heat. Here is the procedure I use to get red off: put a correct sized driver in/on the fastener put some torque on it and heat the shaft of the driver up with a torch until the applied torque rotates the fastener.

 

[dreever]

After de-greasing I've used my wifes fingernail polish for years and never had a base screw come loose untill I wanted it to. Works good on trigger adjustment screws too!

Danny

 

[M-61]

After you decide what locking agent to use (nothing is permanent) I found it helpful to neatly brush half of the screw head and base and rings with a contrasting nail polish. A quick glance will show if the screw has moved as the half screw painted will not be lined up with what it is securing.

 

[lloydx2]

If your running 65 inch lbs. You should not have to use any tread locker. If you do somethings not right.

 

[dragman]

Happened to me one time base came loose and caused me all kinds of problems. My bases are torqued down to over 100 inch pounds and I use loctite. if they come loose again I am done forever as somekind of alien power made this happen.

 

[M-61]

The problem is not with using a given torque value (which should be greatly modified depending on the type of lubricant=bone dry and spotless vs. ANY liquid applied). Rather the gap which exists between the threads on the screw and the threads cut into the mount or rings or what ever. They can not contact each other 100% or even close. The various thread lockers fill this gap making a much more secure fastener.
All aircraft have torque values for every nut,bolt and screw. That is not sufficient. Years ago you safety wired nearly everything. Today not so many as things such as Loctite, self locking nuts (nylon inserts have taken the place of safety wire), etc., are required even with perfect torque values applied. Simpler things such as trailer wheel lug bolts require a "re torquing" periodically.

 

[rocketron]

I don't use either flavor of loctite. I've found that vibratite VC-3 is more user friendly. It puts a rubber like red coating on the threads that's reusable.

You can pretreat fastiners. Sets up in like 10 minutes and can used anytime after. The fastiner doesn't have to be used immediately.

+1 good stuff

 

[lpreddick]

ok, tell me where to get vibratite vc-3. i like the name...sounds like something that does what i want it to do or not allow to happen what i don't want???

 

[markm87]

ok, tell me where to get vibratite vc-3. i like the name...sounds like something that does what i want it to do or not allow to happen what i don't want???

I prefer these blister packs... I'm always affraid I'll go to the bottle and it'll be dried up and useless.

I ordered them here. I can mail you a blister pack to try if you want... before you order.

http://www.boatzincs.com/vibratite-specs.html

 

[Joe C]

There are actually about as many kinds of loctite as there are lipstick...well, maybe not that many...but a LOT.

I personally keep and use the blue, red and green 680 here in my shop. I use the blue on my personal rifle scope rings, red on the bases and green on anything I don't ever want to move...like a comp on a custom 1911.

 

[CJ6]

There are actually about as many kinds of loctite as there are lipstick...well, maybe not that many...but a LOT.

I personally keep and use the blue, red and green 680 here in my shop. I use the blue on my personal rifle scope rings, red on the bases and green on anything I don't ever want to move...like a comp on a custom 1911.

Or New valve seats on aluminum heads

 

[lloydx2]

Sorry guys. No disrespect intended . But if you cant torque 7/16-1/2 nightforce hexnuts to a quality base (rail) 65 inch lbs. With no thread lock. Something IS wrong. This type of system is meant to be taken on and off. Used on multiple guns if need be. I have had my scope on and off my personal gun countless times without a hitch. I do however loctite rings and base (rail) Regards Lloyd

 

[rocketron]

I prefer these blister packs... I'm always affraid I'll go to the bottle and it'll be dried up and useless.

I ordered them here. I can mail you a blister pack to try if you want... before you order.

http://www.boatzincs.com/vibratite-specs.html
[/quote]

the bottles don't dry out. i'm still using a bottle i got in the early 90's

keep it in the house and clean the cap threads when you done.