Loctite nut to barrel

[Kane519]

Long time lurker, first time poster with a question. Here & elsewhere I've read of guys using loctite to fasten their barrel nut to their barrel (once properly headspaced), however I'm wondering if anyone here has actually done it themselves & what their results were.

Thanks in advance.

 

[savagedasher]

Thread lock would work. But why . Larry

 

[ND shooter]

Short answer... No

 

[memilanuk]

Haven't tried that... but have been considering putting some nylon tipped set screws into the barrel nut for the same purpose.

To be honest, you can take it apart and reassemble it pretty quickly and consistently just using witness marks from the receiver to the nut, and from the nut to the barrel - which is the main reason it hasn't really been a priority for me.

 

[Kane519]

Why is a fair question. I want to quick change barrels in the field, from a training round (223rem) to a competition round 6.5cm). I've seen it down where two flats are machines into the barrel, about 2" from the muzzle. The owner uses a torque wrench (20# I believe) to swap barrels without removing the action from the chassis or removing the scope. However, he does this with a shouldered barrel, so the barrel nut may add another level of complexity.
Loctite's website says red is good to 24 ft-lbs on a M10 bolt, so that may not be strong enough. Though, I'd assume that the larger the threads the stronger the grip, so maybe.

 

[savagedasher]

Why is a fair question. I want to quick change barrels in the field, from a training round (223rem) to a competition round 6.5cm). I've seen it down where two flats are machines into the barrel, about 2" from the muzzle. The owner uses a torque wrench (20# I believe) to swap barrels without removing the action from the chassis or removing the scope. However, he does this with a shouldered barrel, so the barrel nut may add another level of complexity.
Loctite's website says red is good to 24 ft-lbs on a M10 bolt, so that may not be strong enough. Though, I'd assume that the larger the threads the stronger the grip, so maybe.

I said thread locker I think it is 243
Larry

 

[Dos XX]

Jam 2 barrel nuts together.

 

[Ggmac]

Jam 2 barrel nuts together.

Good idea if required . You could cut the factory nut in half and jam them .
Add loctite for a extra measure or you could just make /buy barrels with shoulders .

 

[Twdmar]

This is workable. I have a savage with 2 barrels and what I did was cut a small shim of aluminum and jammed it into the threads. I then glued the nuts on with jb weld. There is a gunsmith named Larry Racine who will mill flats on your muzzle for a wrench.
I just use a rubber strap wrench and can still get 25 ft lbs which seems to be enough

 

[swadiver]

Why?

 

[perry42]

Do not use RED loctite unless you like heating the barrel nut when attempting to remove the nut & barrel.

perry42

 

[joshb]

There was a guy here that installed a set screw in his nuts and a corresponding shallow hole in his barrels to do what you are thinking about. He claimed it worked great. I personally wouldn't trust the loctite to hold.

 

[pacificman]

I would never use loctite on the barrel nut...in fact I use anti seize so that I can take the nut off
if needed. I have never had a barrel nut loosen once put on either. This way when swapping
or replacing barrels it will be easy peasy. I have done this to 4 rifles with no problems.

 

[JLT]

I would never use loctite on the barrel nut...in fact I use anti seize so that I can take the nut off
if needed. I have never had a barrel nut loosen once put on either. This way when swapping
or replacing barrels it will be easy peasy. I have done this to 4 rifles with no problems.

^^^^^^ This ^^^^^^^ Exactly. If the nut is torqued correctly the barrel will stay put. I've never had one come loose. I use synthetic grease on the threads - very sparingly - and changing barrels is never a problem either.

 

[Will Henry]

Fixing the nut to the barrel allows the barrel to work just like conventionally fitted barrel so it can be removed and replaced without the use of a head space gauge. I've done it and it works fine. WH

 

[Dgd6mm]

Bringing up an old thread. I'm interested in using JB Weld on a barrel and nut. If I did, I would like to use a barrel vise and a inline action wrench with 45ft.lbs for installation and removal. What you say?

Don Dunlap

 

[std7mag]

Not sure why you'd want to do that?

Just use a nut wrench.

And i had heard closer to 80 ftlb for a barrel.

Although i had seen a barrel put on hand tight for testing a Proof Research barrel.

 

[Dgd6mm]

Because I want too. 80ft. lbs. Is not required to hold a barrel on.

Don Dunlap

 

[hoz53]

Bringing up an old thread. I'm interested in using JB Weld on a barrel and nut. If I did, I would like to use a barrel vise and a inline action wrench with 45ft.lbs for installation and removal. What you say?

Don Dunlap

i did it once because i was chambering the barrel and i wanted the nut to stay in the same place like a shoulder so i could set headspace.(reamer depth) it worked okay for that. You prob want to do it so you wont have to use a headspace gauge everytime u switch the barrel right? I wouldnt trust it. just my 2 cents.

 

[Edd]

In a totally different environment, I use #271 red Loctite on threads almost every day. The thread material I use it on is brass but I would be surprised if it reacted much different on steel. It works well in preventing the connection from vibrating loose. I can unscrew the connections, at future dates, without applying heat and the cured stuff is easily cleaned off for re-application.