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loading for 6.5 Creedmoor in Savage #12 LRP for Benchrest factory class

flexible

Silver $$ Contributor
Hi everyone, flexible here. Been reloading pistol brass for decades and started the set up last year for 6.5 Creedmoor. Went to a class for Benchrest rifle and enjoyed the class and shooting.
I'm still not very confident loading rifle ammo so I'd appreciate some input.
Here is what i'm planning and i have the components:
  1. deprime brass
  2. clean in STS liquid tumbler
  3. lube with One Shot
  4. shoulder bump & OAL on once fired brass with Sinclair bump/comparator tool
  5. size on Redding Competition Bushing die
  6. Sinclair mandrel expander die
  7. trim on Little Crow WFT
  8. deburr & chamfer
  9. prime on Sinclair hand primer
  10. charge RCBS Chargemaster
  11. seat, Redding Competition seater die
I have Hornady brass (large primer) and Lapua brass (small primer).
Winchester & CCI BR large primers & Remington 7 1/2 small benchrest primers
Berger 130 AR & Lapua 139 OTM Scenar bullets
IMR 4064 & Hodgdon H4350

Is my sequence good? am i missing something?
thanks
flexible
 
Hi everyone, flexible here. Been reloading pistol brass for decades and started the set up last year for 6.5 Creedmoor. Went to a class for Benchrest rifle and enjoyed the class and shooting.
I'm still not very confident loading rifle ammo so I'd appreciate some input.
Here is what i'm planning and i have the components:
  1. deprime brass
  2. clean in STS liquid tumbler
  3. lube with One Shot
  4. shoulder bump & OAL on once fired brass with Sinclair bump/comparator tool
  5. size on Redding Competition Bushing die
  6. Sinclair mandrel expander die
  7. trim on Little Crow WFT
  8. deburr & chamfer
  9. prime on Sinclair hand primer
  10. charge RCBS Chargemaster
  11. seat, Redding Competition seater die
I have Hornady brass (large primer) and Lapua brass (small primer).
Winchester & CCI BR large primers & Remington 7 1/2 small benchrest primers
Berger 130 AR & Lapua 139 OTM Scenar bullets
IMR 4064 & Hodgdon H4350

Is my sequence good? am i missing something?
thanks
flexible
Looks pretty good, I shoot F Open, I don't mandrel, I Anneal after Tumbling and just started using Berger 140 VLD Target seating with a Wilson Seater with a K&M Arbor Press. I use Peterson 6.5 CM LRP and set up a Ladder with their SRP to try this week
Disclaimer, I haven't been able to shoot anything I have loaded with the Arbor Press Yet.
 
Looks pretty good, I shoot F Open, I don't mandrel, I Anneal after Tumbling and just started using Berger 140 VLD Target seating with a Wilson Seater with a K&M Arbor Press. I use Peterson 6.5 CM LRP and set up a Ladder with their SRP to try this week
Disclaimer, I haven't been able to shoot anything I have loaded with the Arbor Press Yet.
How about powder loads, i was at a Benchrest seminar and those guys shoot really hot loads, mostly 6mm PPC. i've followed the usual manuals for my first few loads. any data or warnings?
thanks
 
How about powder loads, i was at a Benchrest seminar and those guys shoot really hot loads, mostly 6mm PPC. i've followed the usual manuals for my first few loads. any data or warnings?
thanks
I am using Varget 36.4 right now, I have a Back load for RL15 and Staball 6.5. Not sure if that helps, two different disciplines, we shoot for score, 1 MOA Targets,, So far I have only shot 500 Yards in Matches and 300 Yards once on my own. 36.4 Varget isn't hot, but it gave me a good node and shoots a good waterline.
 
Hi everyone, flexible here. Been reloading pistol brass for decades and started the set up last year for 6.5 Creedmoor. Went to a class for Benchrest rifle and enjoyed the class and shooting.
I'm still not very confident loading rifle ammo so I'd appreciate some input.
Here is what i'm planning and i have the components:
  1. deprime brass
  2. clean in STS liquid tumbler
  3. lube with One Shot
  4. shoulder bump & OAL on once fired brass with Sinclair bump/comparator tool
  5. size on Redding Competition Bushing die
  6. Sinclair mandrel expander die
  7. trim on Little Crow WFT
  8. deburr & chamfer
  9. prime on Sinclair hand primer
  10. charge RCBS Chargemaster
  11. seat, Redding Competition seater die
I have Hornady brass (large primer) and Lapua brass (small primer).
Winchester & CCI BR large primers & Remington 7 1/2 small benchrest primers
Berger 130 AR & Lapua 139 OTM Scenar bullets
IMR 4064 & Hodgdon H4350

Is my sequence good? am i missing something?
thanks
flexible
It all looks good to me except the stainless steel cleaning you need the natural lubing qualities of the carbon in the necks for LR benchrest accuracy. You will get inconsistent neck tension with squeaky clean necks, I would use dry media if I cleaned them. If your dead set on cleaning them with stainless steel you will need some good dry neck lube. Good luck
Wayne
 
I use 140 grain bullets with 41.5 grains of H4350 powder with large primers and 41.0 grains of the same powder with small primers. Remember each gun is different . Start low and build up.
 
Asking this as a sincere question to those with more experience:
If the carbon lubing quality in necks is absent in factory new brass (and
loaded ammunition), how does some factory ammo shoot so well?
Is there anything that can be done to new brass to mimic the
benefits of the carbon? (Besides the obvious -shoot it once).
 
Minshooter,
It’s whatever you consider shoots well I guess. For banging steel and all you need is a hit then maybe factory rounds would be ok for benchrest shooter trying to achieve the smallest groups possible every little thing adds up, having consistent bullet release is very important. Anytime I see precision shooter using stainless steel and chemicals to clean there cases I cringe. Actually I really wished everyone I shot against did do that lol anyway just want to point my opinion out to the op because he asked for opinions
Wayne
 
Asking this as a sincere question to those with more experience:
If the carbon lubing quality in necks is absent in factory new brass (and
loaded ammunition), how does some factory ammo shoot so well?
Is there anything that can be done to new brass to mimic the
benefits of the carbon? (Besides the obvious -shoot it once).
Missed the last part of your post,... sorry.
Yes they make dry neck lube. They make several brands I believe I’m using imperial but I use it on all my new brass when sizing it.
Wayne
 
thanks everyone, really appreciate the help. Let me get this straight, I WILL use One Shot spray on the cases for general lube AND use Imperial dry lube (just ordered it) on the necks?
flexible.
 
Hi everyone, flexible here. Been reloading pistol brass for decades and started the set up last year for 6.5 Creedmoor. Went to a class for Benchrest rifle and enjoyed the class and shooting.
I'm still not very confident loading rifle ammo so I'd appreciate some input.
Here is what i'm planning and i have the components:
  1. deprime brass
  2. clean in STS liquid tumbler
  3. lube with One Shot
  4. shoulder bump & OAL on once fired brass with Sinclair bump/comparator tool
  5. size on Redding Competition Bushing die
  6. Sinclair mandrel expander die
  7. trim on Little Crow WFT
  8. deburr & chamfer
  9. prime on Sinclair hand primer
  10. charge RCBS Chargemaster
  11. seat, Redding Competition seater die
I have Hornady brass (large primer) and Lapua brass (small primer).
Winchester & CCI BR large primers & Remington 7 1/2 small benchrest primers
Berger 130 AR & Lapua 139 OTM Scenar bullets
IMR 4064 & Hodgdon H4350

Is my sequence good? am i missing something?
thanks
flexible

So how deep into the dark side of BR do you want to get? ;)

I shoot LR BR and here is my current loading method. Please note my method changes all the time as I continually refine my process, trying new ways and eliminated ways that done produce results. Most approaches that are thoughtfully developed and consistently applied will work well.

1. Weight sort cases. Internal volume is what we are really after, but weight sorted cases give a rough correlation and will identify any outliers. Sorting by volume of water would be better, IF you can be consistent enough filling the cases.

2. Measure and sort bullets. Each of us has a slightly different approach, but the idea is to get rid on any bad bullets and get the bullets grouped into sorting a that will seat and shoot together

3. Weigh primers and sort into .05 grain groups

4. Neck turn cases for .003" (for 6mm) or .004" (for 30 cal)

5. Uniform primer pockets.

6. Debur flash holes if required.

Loading process:

1. Deprime fired cases and clean by wiping carbon off outside of necks with steel wool or Scorchbrite. I do not want to get the cases so clean that the carbon is removed from the inside of the necks.

2. Anneal on an AMP with Aztec. This isn't required, but either anneal each time or don't do it at all.

3. Bump shoulders .002 to .003. Measure every case and keep all shoulders within .0005". I lube with RCBS case lube on a lube pad and use a custom Whidden bushing sizer die with expander mandrels of varying size to control neck tension. I use a Prazipress, which has zero deflection. I measure using a Whidden shoulder bump gauge on an Mitituyo digital caliper.

4. Clean primer pockets

5. Trim, chamfer, and deburr on a Henderson Precision trimmer with a Forster 3-Way Cutter.

5. Seat primers with a K&M Primer Gauge to .002" crush for SR primers and .003" for LR primers.

6. Charge powder to within one kernel with an AutoThrow/AutoTrickler on an A&D FXI 120

7. Bush case necks with a nylon brush immediately before seating bullets

8. Seat bullets on a 21st Century Hydropress. Any bullet that requires seating force well outside of the norm goes into the sighter group. I measure each round after seating to ensure consistency. I use a custom insert in a Hornady housing with the Mitituyo calipers.

I think I mentioned everything. I make no claims that this is the best way and I am always refining and testing.
 
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Thanks very much, just what i'm looking for; a step by step process. I don't mind getting that far into the weeds!
 
My only caution would be to make sure your de-primer pin is the smaller size. The flash holes are different sizes between small and large primers.
 
Thanks very much, just what i'm looking for; a step by step process. I don't mind getting that far into the weeds!
Before you jump in with both feet, you may want to get started with a minimum of fuss. Add tools/procedures as needed/if needed so the changes are quantifiable... or not. Go slow, go far. Wind flags & practice will do a lot more than trying every conceivable new gimmick when you're 1st starting out.
 
I was in a class on Benchrest this past Saturday and they used wind flags on the Sunday practice shoot, never realized how much the wind is blowing and changing!
 
How about powder loads, i was at a Benchrest seminar and those guys shoot really hot loads, mostly 6mm PPC. i've followed the usual manuals for my first few loads. any data or warnings?
thanks
YMMV.....and you should start low and work up.....but here is the recipe I use for my Savage 12 LRP in 6.5 CM:

Hornady brass
Sierra 142gr MK 0.020" off rifling
41.5gr H4350
Remington #9 1/2

.
 
Before you jump in with both feet, you may want to get started with a minimum of fuss. Add tools/procedures as needed/if needed so the changes are quantifiable... or not. Go slow, go far. Wind flags & practice will do a lot more than trying every conceivable new gimmick when you're 1st starting out.

There is not a single "gimmick" in the process I listed. It is a sound process with logical and quantifiable results. I doubt there are "gimmicks" in what everyone else posted either.

In LR BR, a well-tuned load is as important as reading wind and having a consistent shooting process. You can't outshoot your tune and no one gets there measuring powder with a Chargemaster.

It is very hard to enjoy BR for very long by taking it slow. That is a recipe for frustration. Lots of new shooters show up to a match, are stunned by the level of precision and accuracy, and then don't come back.

The most successful new LR BR shooter I know jumped in all the way. He had the rifle built and bought all the equipment and components. He stumbled along for a couple months, studied, ask questions, shot matches, learned how to tune, and figured it out. He is now is very competitive.

When I started I shot a varmint rifle off a Hoppes front rest. I was excited just to hit the target at 1000 yds. I then built a mediocre LR BR rifle, acquires better rests, and did poorly all season. The next season I had a real LR BR rifle built and I started shooting very well.

In BR, equipment matters.......
 
There is not a single "gimmick" in the process I listed. It is a sound process with logical and quantifiable results. I doubt there are "gimmicks" in what everyone else posted either.

In LR BR, a well-tuned load is as important as reading wind and having a consistent shooting process. You can't outshoot your tune and no one gets there measuring powder with a Chargemaster.

It is very hard to enjoy BR for very long by taking it slow. That is a recipe for frustration. Lots of new shooters show up to a match, are stunned by the level of precision and accuracy, and then don't come back.

The most successful new LR BR shooter I know jumped in all the way. He had the rifle built and bought all the equipment and components. He stumbled along for a couple months, studied, ask questions, shot matches, learned how to tune, and figured it out. He is now is very competitive.

When I started I shot a varmint rifle off a Hoppes front rest. I was excited just to hit the target at 1000 yds. I then built a mediocre LR BR rifle, acquires better rests, and did poorly all season. The next season I had a real LR BR rifle built and I started shooting very well.

In BR, equipment matters.......
Whoa... Did I quote you in particular? Take a 'lude, buddy. It was a general statement. Maybe gizmo would have been a better choice of words than gimmick. Here & on other forums, I've been seeing "new" guys buying up all these nifty new gadgets & not understanding their use or even the reason for having them. The tool manufacturers sure are smiling though. It's important to know how to walk before you try to run. Other than the gizmo thing, I stand by my statement.

Equipment matters... the reality of this mindset is one of the things that sucked all the fun out of BR for score, on a budget, for me a long time ago. Big money sucked all the fun out of auto racing a while back too.

How much did all those nifty tools cost you? Would you recommend a new shooter run right out & buy them all? It's really doubtful a factory Savage in factory class will benefit by using your spiffy tools or a number of your procedures. The shooter will advance as skill, knowledge, & finances allow... or like you said above, get frustrated & pack it all in.
 
Whoa... Did I quote you in particular? Take a 'lude, buddy. It was a general statement. Maybe gizmo would have been a better choice of words than gimmick. Here & on other forums, I've been seeing "new" guys buying up all these nifty new gadgets & not understanding their use or even the reason for having them. The tool manufacturers sure are smiling though. It's important to know how to walk before you try to run. Other than the gizmo thing, I stand by my statement.

Equipment matters... the reality of this mindset is one of the things that sucked all the fun out of BR for score, on a budget, for me a long time ago. Big money sucked all the fun out of auto racing a while back too.

How much did all those nifty tools cost you? Would you recommend a new shooter run right out & buy them all? It's really doubtful a factory Savage in factory class will benefit by using your spiffy tools or a number of your procedures. The shooter will advance as skill, knowledge, & finances allow... or like you said above, get frustrated & pack it all in.

I don't do drugs--sorry. And I did not make any claim to you quoting me in particular. In fact, I mentioned everyone who had posted on thread.

It's much simpler than that. I disagree with your comments and approach. I think a new shooter needs to know where all this goes and what is required or else they quickly become frustrated and quit. Like I mentioned, the most successful new guy I know did the research, bought good stuff, and was soon competing at a high level.

I was extremely frustrated for the year I was using cobbled together stuff. The OP needs to know up front what he is getting into.

Maybe it was different for you, and the OP should know that as well.
 
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