Light primer strikes

[XL105]

I had 10 misfires with light primer strikes on a batch of ammo I reloaded.
The rifle is F Class Savage custom with a Shilen 260 rem barrel and rifle basix trigger set to 12oz. I haven’t shot this rifle in a couple years.
My first thought was I didn’t seat the primers deep enough, so I tried seating them deeper. This didn’t help.
So I checked to see if I bumped the shoulder back properly, they all were where they needed to be .001-.002 closer to two on most.
So I disassembled them.
I have stock Savage 12 LRP 260 rem with accu trigger set to 1.5lbs. I chambered disassembled round (brass and primer only) and the two I tried fired. The head space on both rifles are almost identical within .001.
I checked the firing pin protrusion length on both rifles.
LRP .052
F Class .082
So the protrusion in F Class is much more then LRP, even way out of recommended spec.
I noticed when moving the firing pin in and out on both bolts the spring tension is much greater on the LRP then on the F Class.
So after a long winded explanation, my question is, is my firing pin spring to weak on the F Class rifle? Could my pull weight be to light on the basix trigger? Or is there something I am missing during reloading.
If my spring is to weak what recommended spring do I replace it with? I assume if it is spring related I should adjust the protrusion back into spec after replacing it?

 

[Oso]

Assuming your reloads are correct (shoulder in proper place) then it is easy fix if it is the firing pin spring. Not all factory springs are the same. I had a similar issue with a new rifle. I swapped out the factory firing pin spring with a Wolf (I believe) and my problem was solved. It is an inexpensive maintenance item...don't over-think it.

 

[D-4297]

Not having the rifle in front of me , and from your post ; I would probably consider replacing the Firing Pin spring as a first option . One of my shooting friends was having a similar issue with his Savage F-TR , and after checking the world , and everything in it, I finally got him to replace the F/P spring . Problem went away. Occom's Razor .

 

[M-61]

My first thought was I didn’t seat the primers deep enough, so I tried seating them deeper.

Again maybe I'm old fashion but a properly seated primer is bottomed in the primer pocket. You can 'feel' it bottom and that's it. Not crushed beyond belief but not with anymore more to go deeper. Been doing that since 1963 and primers are the very least of my problems.

 

[Webster]

I had 10 misfires with light primer strikes on a batch of ammo I reloaded.
The rifle is F Class Savage custom with a Shilen 260 rem barrel and rifle basix trigger set to 12oz. I haven’t shot this rifle in a couple years.
My first thought was I didn’t seat the primers deep enough, so I tried seating them deeper. This didn’t help.
So I checked to see if I bumped the shoulder back properly, they all were where they needed to be .001-.002 closer to two on most.
So I disassembled them.
I have stock Savage 12 LRP 260 rem with accu trigger set to 1.5lbs. I chambered disassembled round (brass and primer only) and the two I tried fired. The head space on both rifles are almost identical within .001.
I checked the firing pin protrusion length on both rifles.
LRP .052
F Class .082
So the protrusion in F Class is much more then LRP, even way out of recommended spec.
I noticed when moving the firing pin in and out on both bolts the spring tension is much greater on the LRP then on the F Class.
So after a long winded explanation, my question is, is my firing pin spring to weak on the F Class rifle? Could my pull weight be to light on the basix trigger? Or is there something I am missing during reloading.
If my spring is to weak what recommended spring do I replace it with? I assume if it is spring related I should adjust the protrusion back into spec after replacing it?

Don't understand FP excess protrusion. The cup stops the travel.. If you buy a spring make sure it's made from a chrome/silicon alloy. They retain tension for a very long time. The springs made from what some people call music wire is a plain carbon steel alloy. They lose tension vary quickly. Whidden may sell them?

 

[wagonman]

FP protrusion and travel are adjusted by castle nuts on both ends of FP first set your pin protrusion then your spring compression making sure you have a small amount of clearance on cocking piece at bottom of cocking ramp when spring is uncompressed.

 

[Nowhere Man]

Make sure the nut on the back of the bolt is tight. You mention the word "custom". Was there any work done on the bolt? When using a bolt lift kit, many times the firing pin spring is relaxed which can cause light strikes.

 

[Nowhere Man]

I forgot to ask, who's primers were you using? One fellow's rifle would shoot cci primers without issues but refused to fire most ammo loaded with Wolf primers. I suspected the Wolf primers had a harder cup.

 

[Homerange]

Strip and clean the bolt of any gummed lube after 2 years without use.
We had this with a very new Tikka and when asked to pay the importers gunsmith for the strip and clean they were told where to go.

 

[NorCalMikie]

Light primer strikes? First thing to do (IMHO) before you do anything else is increase the OAL of a round by pulling the bullet out of the case to get it to jam into the lands.
That will hold the case against the bolt face so it doesn't get pushed forward in the chamber by the firing pin.
That will tell you for sure if the shoulders are in the right place. (didn't get pushed back too far when resizing)
Go from there. Don't throw a bunch of $$$ at it till you know for sure which way to go.
Over the last 15 or 20 years, out of my 5+ (I've forgot how many) Savage rigs, never had a firing pin "spring" issue. YMMV.

 

[RegionRat]

@XL105 I have had two Savage 12 where the root cause of poor ignition on different brands of primers was determined to be the firing pin springs and both rigs went from very poor reliability to 100% with everything after the spring change.

I can't remember the part numbers off the top of my head, but Wolff offered two force levels and I ended up with the higher force spring in both rigs to make them run right.

If you can't find those, PM me and I'll go dig out my notes and invoices.

 

[chromatica]

Savage uses two totally different firing pin designs in its bolt action rifles. The Model 10 uses a long spring (3 or so inches) that is compressed before a cap nut is screwed onto the threaded base of the firing pin. The pretension on the spring an be adjusted. The Model 11 (and possibly others) use a short (1 inch spring) that allows no adjustment. I had a Model 11 that was giving light strikes after five years of hard use. I upgraded to the Model 10 spring assembly and added a Nate Lambeth lift kit to allow spring tension adjustment without disassembling the bolt. No more light strikes after that.

 

[XL105]

I will take it apart and clean it and look into stronger spring and maybe lift kit.

 

[KMart]

One more thing to check is the trigger itself, assuming that you are using the Savage Accu trigger. sometimes if you don't pull the center blade straight back and push or pull it to one side or the other, the trigger goes into a "safety " mode and doesn't allow the firing pin to travel all the way. And it will give a very lite indentation on the primer. Saw one doing that at the range a few days ago.
It is a pretty common accu trigger problem

 

[XL105]

Guys had ask which primers I was using they are CCI BR2.
The trigger is rifle basix trigger with a trigger weight of 12oz.
If anyone has a link to an upgraded spring can you post it? I can find model 10 and 110 springs but not the model 12.
@RegionRat I will PM you for the information on spring force pressure.

 

[RegionRat]

Failure to ignite for a Savage 12 is apparently a very common issue caused by weak firing pin springs. Don’t neglect the other possible root causes, but once you have eliminated them, check the firing pin spring.

Wolff 64436

 

[XL105]

Failure to ignite for a Savage 12 is apparently a very common issue caused by weak firing pin springs. Don’t neglect the other possible root causes, but once you have eliminated them, check the firing pin spring.

Wolff 64436

Thanks for the info.

 

[Webster]

I had 10 misfires with light primer strikes on a batch of ammo I reloaded.
The rifle is F Class Savage custom with a Shilen 260 rem barrel and rifle basix trigger set to 12oz. I haven’t shot this rifle in a couple years.
My first thought was I didn’t seat the primers deep enough, so I tried seating them deeper. This didn’t help.
So I checked to see if I bumped the shoulder back properly, they all were where they needed to be .001-.002 closer to two on most.
So I disassembled them.
I have stock Savage 12 LRP 260 rem with accu trigger set to 1.5lbs. I chambered disassembled round (brass and primer only) and the two I tried fired. The head space on both rifles are almost identical within .001.
I checked the firing pin protrusion length on both rifles.
LRP .052
F Class .082
So the protrusion in F Class is much more then LRP, even way out of recommended spec.
I noticed when moving the firing pin in and out on both bolts the spring tension is much greater on the LRP then on the F Class.
So after a long winded explanation, my question is, is my firing pin spring to weak on the F Class rifle? Could my pull weight be to light on the basix trigger? Or is there something I am missing during reloading.
If my spring is to weak what recommended spring do I replace it with? I assume if it is spring related I should adjust the protrusion back into spec after replacing it?

Do you put oil on the cocking piece shroud that the FP passes thtru?

 

[D-4297]

If you're considering a bolt-lift kit , contact Grimstod . He's a member on the site and price is very good . I installed his kit in my Buds Savage . It's a totally different rifle now .

 

[Rat Rifle]

When I want to know what My firing pin is doing, I chamber a fired case and drop the hammer. With no blow back, you can see exactly what the firing pin is doing. If there is no problem, the expended primer will be driven into into the pocket as far as it will go. According to Fred Moreo, FP protrusion is ideal at .035” on a Savage. Are You using Small Rifle Primers? I have found that with SRP’s, the firing pin tip can be too blunt, causing FTF’s. With Small Primers, the tip needs to be about .060”, but could be as much as .070” if it is too blunt. Grimstod is the real fix with the bushed bolt head and the turned firing pin. If You have the skills, the 38 Special case and ball bearing diy bolt lift fix works beautifully. How to can be found on line. Best of Luck.