Hello..I'm looking for suggestions as to what to do. Some time ago [20 years?] I bought a BR-36 scope didn't use it much and then life interfered and now 20 years later I'm back to shooting again. I was having a hard time seeing thru it so sent it back to leupold to go over it and put in a different recticle. They did all that for no charge. Used it once and was fine. Next time the target was unfocused and had to move the parallax ring about a half turn to regain focus. Sent back to Leupold and they fixed again saying they replaced a lot of parts. Again no charge. This time I had to adjust the parallax to about 150 yds. to focus at 100 yds, but have used it for about two months this way. This weekend tried to use it at 200yds. and had to give the bell a crank of about a half turn to bring things into focus again. I then tried a box test. First I shot a 5 shot group in the center target, a .166 group about 1/4" high. One of my best groups with my savage 12br 6mm br norma. Then cranked the windage and elevation turrents and went around the box twice. It was a disaster. Should I send this back to leupold, find someone else to fix it, or just give up on it? Thanks for any suggestions. John
Leupold BR-36 parallax adjustment
- Thread starter jm22250
- Start date
20 years ago. maybe more. Some of the new first introduced 36 Leupolds had a problem with the front lens coming loose , due to bad glue. Have them check that. Also your dealing probably with the non lock ring model. That can be part of the problem.
One other thing {your eyes} Getting older is a stinker to say the least . I have to set my distances on the front bell differently now that my eyes are getting older. Ahh the golden years The only ones getting gold are the docs"'
One other thing {your eyes} Getting older is a stinker to say the least . I have to set my distances on the front bell differently now that my eyes are getting older. Ahh the golden years The only ones getting gold are the docs"'
BoydAllen
Gold $$ Contributor
Generally, although a box test is a good indicator of scope tracking, and in a perfect world, one would like the groups at the corners of the box to all be small and uniform, the fact that yours were not, is not the end of the world. These scopes are generally used at the range, at one or two distances, with a sighter target available. If you take the precaution of always finishing a windage or elevation adjustment with about four clicks in the clockwise direction I think that you will see better results. What this will require is that when adjusting the scope in a direction that requires turning a turret counterclockwise, that you go past and then come back to the desired point of adjustment. I got this from the late Dick Thomas of Premier Reticles.
After making an adjustment, does the scope settle down to a reliable point of impact, after a couple of shots? If it does, it should be perfectly usable for range group shooting. This is not to excuse poor tracking, but simply to point out that if a scope is reliable after one or two shots, that it can still be useful at the range.
I always take a few shots at the sighter when changing yardages at a match, both to foul the barrel after the more through cleaning that I generally do at a yardage change, and to settle the scope after it has been adjusted. I would never risk a group by starting on the record target my first shot on the record target with a newly cleaned barrel, or a scope that had just been adjusted...no matter who made the scope.
Another thing you might try is "exercising" your turrets. Don't laugh. Running the adjustments back and forth, and up and down to their limits, several times can be beneficial, especially for a scope that has been sitting at one point of adjustment for a long time.
Once I was at a match where a seasoned shooter was having problems with his groups that seemed to be scope related. I suggested that he try running his turrets to their limits several times, (which he had never heard of) and it worked. He ended up winning a yardage with that same scope. It was a Weaver 36X.
After making an adjustment, does the scope settle down to a reliable point of impact, after a couple of shots? If it does, it should be perfectly usable for range group shooting. This is not to excuse poor tracking, but simply to point out that if a scope is reliable after one or two shots, that it can still be useful at the range.
I always take a few shots at the sighter when changing yardages at a match, both to foul the barrel after the more through cleaning that I generally do at a yardage change, and to settle the scope after it has been adjusted. I would never risk a group by starting on the record target my first shot on the record target with a newly cleaned barrel, or a scope that had just been adjusted...no matter who made the scope.
Another thing you might try is "exercising" your turrets. Don't laugh. Running the adjustments back and forth, and up and down to their limits, several times can be beneficial, especially for a scope that has been sitting at one point of adjustment for a long time.
Once I was at a match where a seasoned shooter was having problems with his groups that seemed to be scope related. I suggested that he try running his turrets to their limits several times, (which he had never heard of) and it worked. He ended up winning a yardage with that same scope. It was a Weaver 36X.
Thanks for your replies Gerry and Boyd!
Gerry you are quite right on the eyes, mine sure are not as good as they used to be. The scope is new enough that it does have a locking ring, but what bothers me is that when the scope comes back from leupold and parallax ring is adjusted to 100yds I can see thru it fine. Then something changes and I have to readjust it.
Boyd your ideas are very good and I will try them. The scope does settle down and shoot well if all is left alone, so you are right that it should work fine at the range. I was hoping to start some long range shooting though, [I just ordered a rangefinder] and would like a scope that has repeatable adjustments. I'm going to be shooting at a friends ranch were I'll have a lot of varying ranges. Do you have any suggestions as to a scope that would fit my needs? Probably wouldn't shoot over 600 yds or so. Gun is a 6mm br. I'd like to spend $500 or less if possible. Thankyou again for the responses!
John Miller
Gerry you are quite right on the eyes, mine sure are not as good as they used to be. The scope is new enough that it does have a locking ring, but what bothers me is that when the scope comes back from leupold and parallax ring is adjusted to 100yds I can see thru it fine. Then something changes and I have to readjust it.
Boyd your ideas are very good and I will try them. The scope does settle down and shoot well if all is left alone, so you are right that it should work fine at the range. I was hoping to start some long range shooting though, [I just ordered a rangefinder] and would like a scope that has repeatable adjustments. I'm going to be shooting at a friends ranch were I'll have a lot of varying ranges. Do you have any suggestions as to a scope that would fit my needs? Probably wouldn't shoot over 600 yds or so. Gun is a 6mm br. I'd like to spend $500 or less if possible. Thankyou again for the responses!
John Miller
BoydAllen
Gold $$ Contributor
Hi,
First of all, I never pay any attention to what the objective calibration says, I focus the scope, by turning the objective, while looking at the target. High magnification scopes have shallow depth of focus, so, to maintain a sharp target image, they must be refocused for each new target distance. This is normal. A straight 36 is a lousy field scope. The field of view is too narrow. Get yourself a variable. The Bushnell 4200 6-24 is a good value. The Optic zone usually has good prices, with no tax, and free shipping for orders over $300. We have ordered several scopes from them, and have been pleased. I would probably use two piece Weaver bases, and medium or high Burris Signature Zee rings (with the plastic inserts). I hope that this helps.
First of all, I never pay any attention to what the objective calibration says, I focus the scope, by turning the objective, while looking at the target. High magnification scopes have shallow depth of focus, so, to maintain a sharp target image, they must be refocused for each new target distance. This is normal. A straight 36 is a lousy field scope. The field of view is too narrow. Get yourself a variable. The Bushnell 4200 6-24 is a good value. The Optic zone usually has good prices, with no tax, and free shipping for orders over $300. We have ordered several scopes from them, and have been pleased. I would probably use two piece Weaver bases, and medium or high Burris Signature Zee rings (with the plastic inserts). I hope that this helps.
Thankyou for your reply Boyd .....Believe it or not I just had ordered in a couple pair of the burris zee rings... recieved them today! I'll check out the bushnell 4200 I have read good things about them. Also thanks for the common sense answer about my objective lens. I'll just adjust it to were I see and quit worrying about it!
This sure is a great site. Full of caring and helpful people. Thanks again. John
This sure is a great site. Full of caring and helpful people. Thanks again. John
I had a leupold 24 x that Wally Siebert boosted to 33 x.
No lock ring on that A.O.
I remember one Br match that the temperature changed thru the shooting.
A lot did not catch on to this -much mumbling on the line about their scopes.
I just keep tweeking the A.O. for "0" parallex and smiled quietly
....
Glenn
No lock ring on that A.O.
I remember one Br match that the temperature changed thru the shooting.
A lot did not catch on to this -much mumbling on the line about their scopes.
I just keep tweeking the A.O. for "0" parallex and smiled quietly
....Glenn
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