I recently had to get my decapping pin unstuck from my .223 resizing die and in the middle Of doing that I lost the position I had the die in to resize my cases perfectly. I’m having the worst time trying to get my cases sized right. I’ve read over and over on how to set the die but my cases don’t sit correctly in my case/headspace gauge. The bottom end of the case sticks about 1/16 too far from sitting correctly. I’m using a lee single stage press with L.C brass. Please help ASAP.
Lee full length resizing issue.
- Thread starter Dave Pag
- Start date
A FL sized case sticking out of a case gauge 1/16 on an inch indicates that the sizer die needs to be set lower by almost 9/10 of 1 turn.
(1/16” equals 0.063"; one turn moves the die 0.071"; 0.063/0.071 = 0.887 of a turn)
I suggest that you screw the die in ½ turn; FL size a case; and gauge it. Then screw the die in ¼ turn; FL size a case; and gauge it. Continue turning the die in until the desired case head to datum length is achieved.
(1/16” equals 0.063"; one turn moves the die 0.071"; 0.063/0.071 = 0.887 of a turn)
I suggest that you screw the die in ½ turn; FL size a case; and gauge it. Then screw the die in ¼ turn; FL size a case; and gauge it. Continue turning the die in until the desired case head to datum length is achieved.
Measure the unsized case head space with a bump gauge and caliper of a case (primer removed) fired in that rifle. Record that measurement.
Remove the depriming pin assembly. Turn the FL sizing die down until it firmly touches the shell holder with the ram all the way up, i.e. zero cam over.
Lube the case and size it. Measure the case head space. You're goal is a .001 to .002" (bolt rifles) shoulder set back (i.e shorter) than the unsized fired case. If necessary turn the die down a little at a time until you reach that set back.
Lock the die at that setting. Reinstall the depriming pin assembly so it's protruding about 3/16" below the die or just enough to remove the spent primer out. Check two more cases to verify you are obtaining the desired case head space.
Remove the depriming pin assembly. Turn the FL sizing die down until it firmly touches the shell holder with the ram all the way up, i.e. zero cam over.
Lube the case and size it. Measure the case head space. You're goal is a .001 to .002" (bolt rifles) shoulder set back (i.e shorter) than the unsized fired case. If necessary turn the die down a little at a time until you reach that set back.
Lock the die at that setting. Reinstall the depriming pin assembly so it's protruding about 3/16" below the die or just enough to remove the spent primer out. Check two more cases to verify you are obtaining the desired case head space.
Put a case in your case gauge base first and see if it fits, you could have dings on the rims.
I keep a small file on my reloading bench to remove any raised dings on the case rim.
Some extractors can chew up the rims and cause your problem.
See photos in the post below.
Problem with resized .223
https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/229147-problem-with-resized-223/
I keep a small file on my reloading bench to remove any raised dings on the case rim.
Some extractors can chew up the rims and cause your problem.
See photos in the post below.
Problem with resized .223
https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/229147-problem-with-resized-223/
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I think this decapper may be the root of the issue.
SSL
Gold $$ Contributor
I think so too. I had an embarrassing "duhh" moment a few years ago just like this. With the die adjusted to just clear the shell-holder the press stopped way short of position and the case nowhere near sized. Scratched my head for an hour and tried several adjustments until it finally dawned on me that the deprimer stem was bottoming out on the case head and not allowing the case to fully enter the die. I backed the stem out and adjusted the die to where I wanted it and then adjusted the stem to just pop out the primers. Problem solved but I felt like an idiot.
Using a Lee Decapping die will save the pin on your .223 die.
One other thing IMO, is to get rid of the Lee o-ringed lock ring. Kind of a good idea with no repeatability. Put a Hornady or other lock ring on it, get some Skip's shims and learn to set up the die and it will be repeatable within about .001" every time you screw it back in. I have been through all this many times and this is where I have ended up with total reliability. Good luck with it.
Flouncer
What the heck it works for me !!
I am forwarding this thread to my son who has shown interest in shooting. Can someone explain in layman terms the Bump gauge and possibly a source with link ? I reload with Lee and use both FL and the carbide neck only. - thanks ( I shoot until there is increased bolt effort to chamber a necksized case, then I FL size, I know there is room for improvement in my method,)
What he said, get rid of those POS LEE lock rings. In theory these might be a good idea(?), but IMHO these things are total pieces of (feces). I have a few LEE dies (all factory crimp dies), but the very first thing I did with them was throw the LEE rings in the trash and replaced them with Lyman (steel) split rings.
Bill Norris
Back in the Day
+ 1 on the Lee lock rings. I use the breech-lock adapters with a built-in lock ring and that works great. Set it & forget.
Lone Hunter
Silver $$ Contributor
Like has been said use a Lee Universal Decapping Die.
Lee Universal Depriming Decapping Die
The Lee Universal Decapping and Depriming Die is made of steel and allows the reloader to take cases directly from the range and decap them without the...
www.midwayusa.com
I’ve read that the pin needs to be flush with the nut on top of the die. When the pin is flush with the nut on top the point that punches out the primmer on the bottom of the die sticks out like 3/8” almost. I had to pull the pin up about 1/8” to get a good full length resize. Now my cases are headspaced correctly according to my gauge at least.
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