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Lee Collet Neck Die Sticking

I have been using a Lee Collet Neck Die for a about a year now, one issue I have been running in to is cases sticking in the collet after sizing the neck. I do use gun lube on the collet, and this seems to happen after about 30 to 40 cases. The only remedy for this is the clean the collet, and reapply lube.

Is there a different lube I could apply that would last longer?
 
I have been using a Lee Collet Neck Die for a about a year now, one issue I have been running in to is cases sticking in the collet after sizing the neck. I do use gun lube on the collet, and this seems to happen after about 30 to 40 cases. The only remedy for this is the clean the collet, and reapply lube.

Is there a different lube I could apply that would last longer?
I use Anti-Seize grease. Maybe more durable than gun lube. I've never had a case stick. Make sure the collet and collet chamber are free of debris or burrs.
 
I believe Bore-tech and Shooter's------------ have good quality greases. Going to extreme, head to the Napa or other auto store and get a tube of CV lube with moly. A couple of bucks and you can lube a CV joint and all the Lee Collets in several lifetimes.
 
The lube is for the sliding collet within the die body. If It sticks in the die chamber there is a problem. The cases do not need lube.
That's very interesting! I use these dies a lot and I never lubricated them. I do routinely take them apart and clean them with mineral spirits.
 
Agree with the advise to clean it up and detail anything that would contribute to galling, and then lubricate with an EP (Extreme Presure) Grease. That would look like anything with a Graphite and or Molybdenum additive in a chassis grease. Use the anti-seize in a pinch if you can't find EP Grease, but it should be easy to find at an auto parts store. You will have to observe the die often to learn how to maintain it so it doesn't need attention in the middle of a long run.

The other good advice from @CharlieNC is also true with the current dies. My first ones went a long time using slight Cam-Over, but over the years the advice from Lee changed (and so did the dies) to using less force and avoiding Cam-Over. We used automatic trans fluid back in the stone age, but we also cleaned and maintained those dies to avoid fretting wear or galling. As the details of the dies changed, so did the way we protected them by using EP additives. I will admit, my old ones lasted three times longer than the most recent ones. I put lots of miles on these dies making PD ammo in bulk.

It isn't difficult to learn how to put enough force to make sure you have margin, but not so much that you over do it to the point where the die needs attention all the time. BTW, the mandrel can also pick up brass and oxides that scratch your brass, so keep and eye on that too and clean it up if it looks like more than a patina of color. Brass on brass is a recipe for galling so don't let that accumulate on the mandrel or collet.

The collet method is worth the trouble to many of us, so clean, lube, and don't use excess force.

ETA: something along these lines.
https://www.crcindustries.com/produ...re-multi-purpose-lithium-grease-14-wt-oz.html
 
Last edited:
The John Valentine method has always worked for me:

Using The Lee Collet Die.
I started using Lee collet dies when they first came on the market and have found that they are very good for the purposes for which they were designed .
I have found that there is a lack of understanding of how to use the die properly and as a result people fail to see the advantages that the die can deliver over standard neck sizing dies.
This is not the fault of the product , it is just a lack of understanding of how the die works and what it will feel like when you operate the press correctly.
Standard dies use a neck expanding ball on the decapping rod and size by extruding the neck through a hole and then drag the expander ball back through the inside neck.
The collet die achieves neck sizing by using a split collet to squeeze the outside of the case neck onto a central mandrel which has the decapping pin in it’s base .
One advantage is that there is no stretching or drawing action on the brass.
The inside neck diameter is controlled by the diameter of the mandrel and to some extent by the amount of adjustment of the die and the pressure applied to the press .
This results in less misalignment than can occur in standard dies because of any uneven neck wall thickness in the cases .
Cases will last longer in the neck area and require less trimming. If cases have very uneven neck wall thickness then this can cause problems for the collet die they definitely work smoother and more accurately with neck turned cases but it is not essential.
When you first receive the die unscrew the top cap and pull it apart check that everything is there also that the splits in the collet have nothing stuck in them then inspect the tapered surface on the top end of the collet and the internal taper of the insert to make sure there are no metal burs that might cause it to jamb.
Next get some good quality high pressure grease and put a smear onto the tapered surface of the collet .
Put it back together and screw it into the press just a few threads for now . The best type of press for this die is a press of moderate compound leverage that travels over centre .
Over centre means that when the ram reaches its full travel up it will stop and come back down a tiny amount even though the movement on the handle is continued through to the stop .
eg. is an RCBS Rockchucker.
This arrangement gives the best feel for a collet die sizing operation.
Place the shell holder in the ram and bring the ram up to full height then screw the die down until the collet skirt just touches on the shell holder , then lower the ram .
Take a case to be sized that has a clean neck inside and out and the mouth chamfered and place it in the shell holder.
Raise the ram gently feeling for resistance if none , lower the ram.
Screw the die down a bit at a time .
If you get lock up ( ram stops before going over centre) before the correct position is found then back it off and make sure the collet is loose and not jammed up in the die before continuing then raise the ram feeling for any resistance , keep repeating this until you feel the press handle resist against the case neck just at the top of the stroke as the press goes over centre and the handle kinder locks in place .
This takes much less force than a standard die and most people don’t believe any sizing has taken place .
Take the case out and try a projectile of the correct caliber to see how much sizing has taken place.
If it’s still too loose adjust the die down one eighth of a turn lock it finger tight only and try again .
Once the die is near the correct sizing position it takes very little movement of the die to achieve changes in neck seating tension .
This is where most people come undone , they move the die up and down too much and it either locks up or doesn’t size at all .
It will still size a case locking it up but you have no control over how much pressure is applied and some people lean on the press handle to the point of damaging the die. A press like the RCBS Rockchucker , that goes over centre each time gives you a definite stopping point for the ram and the pressure that you apply .
There is a small sweet spot for correct collet die adjustment and you must find it , once found , how sweet it is ! Advantages : With a press that travels over centre it is possible to adjust the neck seating tension within a very limited zone. No lubricant is normally required on the case necks during sizing .

If you still cant get enough neck tension to hold the bullet properly for a particular purpose then you will have to polish down the mandrel.
Be careful poilishing the mandrel down and only do it a bit at a time as a few thou can be removed pretty quickly if you overdo it.
You can't get extra neck tension by just applying more force. The amount of adjustment around the sweet spot is very limited and almost not noticable without carrying out tests.
For example , to go from a .001 neck tension to a .002 or .003 neck tension you would be talking about polishing down the mandrel.

There are some other advantages but I will leave you the pleasure of discovering them .
One disadvantage that I have found with the collet die is that it needs good vertical alignment of the case as it enters the die or case damage may result so go slowly.
Also some cases with a very thick internal base can cause problems with the mandrel coming in contact with the internal base before the sizing stroke is finished.
If pressure is continued the mandrel can push up against the top cap and cause damage . If you are getting lock up and cant get the right sizing sweet spot, then check that the mandrel is not too long for the case you can place a washer over the case and onto the shell holder and size down on that.
It will reduce the length of neck sized and give the mandrel more clearance. If it sizes Ok after adding the washer then the mandrel could be hitting the base.
This is not a usually problem once you learn how to use them .
The harder the brass is the more spring back it will have so very hard brass will exhibit less sizing than soft brass because it will spring away from the mandrel more. If this is happening to excess then use new cases or anneal the necks.
Freshly annealed brass can drag on the mandrel a bit in certain cases because it will spring back less and result in a tighter size diameter.
I have experienced it. I always use some dry lube on the inside and outside if I get any draging effect . Normally you dont need lube.
I make up a special batch 1/3 Fine Moly powder. 1/3 Pure graphite. 1/3 Aluminiumised lock graphite. Rub your fingers around the neck and It sticks very well to the necks by just dipping it in and out and tapping it to clear the inside neck . After a few cases it coats up the mandrel .
Other dry lubricants would work also.
Use the same process for normal neck sizing also.

I noticed a definite improvement in the accuracy of my 22-250Rem. as soon as I started using a Lee collet die instead of my original standard neck die.
Readers are encouraged to utilise the benefits of responsible reloading at all times. Although the author has taken care in the writing of these articles no responsibility can be taken by the author or publisher as a result of the use of this information.
John Valentine. © 21/01/2002.
 
Measure the neck wall thickness of the offending cases. Every once
in a while I feel one tight. I dust the internals with Dri-Slide.
 
These days, Lee instructions are to avoid cam over or toggle over.

1621634290980.png
The surface finishes on the current dies are not like the old ones. It also really isn't necessary to put that much pressure on the die and necks to size the brass. I have no problem with the dies adjusted well away from the toggle or cam-over. A firm force on your press handle will do just fine without going into cam-over.
 
The John Valentine method has always worked for me:

Using The Lee Collet Die.
I started using Lee collet dies when they first came on the market and have found that they are very good for the purposes for which they were designed .
I have found that there is a lack of understanding of how to use the die properly and as a result people fail to see the advantages that the die can deliver over standard neck sizing dies.
This is not the fault of the product , it is just a lack of understanding of how the die works and what it will feel like when you operate the press correctly.
Standard dies use a neck expanding ball on the decapping rod and size by extruding the neck through a hole and then drag the expander ball back through the inside neck.
The collet die achieves neck sizing by using a split collet to squeeze the outside of the case neck onto a central mandrel which has the decapping pin in it’s base .
One advantage is that there is no stretching or drawing action on the brass.
The inside neck diameter is controlled by the diameter of the mandrel and to some extent by the amount of adjustment of the die and the pressure applied to the press .
This results in less misalignment than can occur in standard dies because of any uneven neck wall thickness in the cases .
Cases will last longer in the neck area and require less trimming. If cases have very uneven neck wall thickness then this can cause problems for the collet die they definitely work smoother and more accurately with neck turned cases but it is not essential.
When you first receive the die unscrew the top cap and pull it apart check that everything is there also that the splits in the collet have nothing stuck in them then inspect the tapered surface on the top end of the collet and the internal taper of the insert to make sure there are no metal burs that might cause it to jamb.
Next get some good quality high pressure grease and put a smear onto the tapered surface of the collet .
Put it back together and screw it into the press just a few threads for now . The best type of press for this die is a press of moderate compound leverage that travels over centre .
Over centre means that when the ram reaches its full travel up it will stop and come back down a tiny amount even though the movement on the handle is continued through to the stop .
eg. is an RCBS Rockchucker.
This arrangement gives the best feel for a collet die sizing operation.
Place the shell holder in the ram and bring the ram up to full height then screw the die down until the collet skirt just touches on the shell holder , then lower the ram .
Take a case to be sized that has a clean neck inside and out and the mouth chamfered and place it in the shell holder.
Raise the ram gently feeling for resistance if none , lower the ram.
Screw the die down a bit at a time .
If you get lock up ( ram stops before going over centre) before the correct position is found then back it off and make sure the collet is loose and not jammed up in the die before continuing then raise the ram feeling for any resistance , keep repeating this until you feel the press handle resist against the case neck just at the top of the stroke as the press goes over centre and the handle kinder locks in place .
This takes much less force than a standard die and most people don’t believe any sizing has taken place .
Take the case out and try a projectile of the correct caliber to see how much sizing has taken place.
If it’s still too loose adjust the die down one eighth of a turn lock it finger tight only and try again .
Once the die is near the correct sizing position it takes very little movement of the die to achieve changes in neck seating tension .
This is where most people come undone , they move the die up and down too much and it either locks up or doesn’t size at all .
It will still size a case locking it up but you have no control over how much pressure is applied and some people lean on the press handle to the point of damaging the die. A press like the RCBS Rockchucker , that goes over centre each time gives you a definite stopping point for the ram and the pressure that you apply .
There is a small sweet spot for correct collet die adjustment and you must find it , once found , how sweet it is ! Advantages : With a press that travels over centre it is possible to adjust the neck seating tension within a very limited zone. No lubricant is normally required on the case necks during sizing .

If you still cant get enough neck tension to hold the bullet properly for a particular purpose then you will have to polish down the mandrel.
Be careful poilishing the mandrel down and only do it a bit at a time as a few thou can be removed pretty quickly if you overdo it.
You can't get extra neck tension by just applying more force. The amount of adjustment around the sweet spot is very limited and almost not noticable without carrying out tests.
For example , to go from a .001 neck tension to a .002 or .003 neck tension you would be talking about polishing down the mandrel.

There are some other advantages but I will leave you the pleasure of discovering them .
One disadvantage that I have found with the collet die is that it needs good vertical alignment of the case as it enters the die or case damage may result so go slowly.
Also some cases with a very thick internal base can cause problems with the mandrel coming in contact with the internal base before the sizing stroke is finished.
If pressure is continued the mandrel can push up against the top cap and cause damage . If you are getting lock up and cant get the right sizing sweet spot, then check that the mandrel is not too long for the case you can place a washer over the case and onto the shell holder and size down on that.
It will reduce the length of neck sized and give the mandrel more clearance. If it sizes Ok after adding the washer then the mandrel could be hitting the base.
This is not a usually problem once you learn how to use them .
The harder the brass is the more spring back it will have so very hard brass will exhibit less sizing than soft brass because it will spring away from the mandrel more. If this is happening to excess then use new cases or anneal the necks.
Freshly annealed brass can drag on the mandrel a bit in certain cases because it will spring back less and result in a tighter size diameter.
I have experienced it. I always use some dry lube on the inside and outside if I get any draging effect . Normally you dont need lube.
I make up a special batch 1/3 Fine Moly powder. 1/3 Pure graphite. 1/3 Aluminiumised lock graphite. Rub your fingers around the neck and It sticks very well to the necks by just dipping it in and out and tapping it to clear the inside neck . After a few cases it coats up the mandrel .
Other dry lubricants would work also.
Use the same process for normal neck sizing also.

I noticed a definite improvement in the accuracy of my 22-250Rem. as soon as I started using a Lee collet die instead of my original standard neck die.
Readers are encouraged to utilise the benefits of responsible reloading at all times. Although the author has taken care in the writing of these articles no responsibility can be taken by the author or publisher as a result of the use of this information.
John Valentine. © 21/01/2002.
Wow guess I should have read before I started. Have now had failures of my 223 and 6.5 Creedmore Lee collet neck dies. Didn’t see anywhere that they to be cleaned or lubed. I did load maybe 300 rounds with both. Do all the dies need to disassembled and cleaned, lubed?
Did have trouble with chambering rounds with the 6.5 when just neck sizing despite proper trim.
 
Sounds like you are applying too much force, which causes the collet to scratch and gall into the housing. Seems like a guy named Valentine wrote an article demonstrating only a light force us necessary to sufficiently size.
I think this may be the root of your problem. I remember that my collet neck sizing die in .270 WIN was not putting enough tension on the necks to hold the bullets. My solution was to buy a smaller diameter rod from Lee. That solved the problem perfectly.
 
Wow guess I should have read before I started. Have now had failures of my 223 and 6.5 Creedmore Lee collet neck dies. Didn’t see anywhere that they to be cleaned or lubed. I did load maybe 300 rounds with both. Do all the dies need to disassembled and cleaned, lubed?
Did have trouble with chambering rounds with the 6.5 when just neck sizing despite proper trim.
To keep organized on two different issues, Lee Collet Dies versus Neck-only sizing...

Yes, you will need to learn to keep all dies maintained. Oxides, carbon and dirt can accumulate with the lubricants of all dies. Occasional inspection will show you this and you must observe often enough based on your own habits.

Neck sizing versus neck and body sizing is another whole concept and we don't want to derail the OP's thread, but lets say that any neck only sizing technique must be taken as a system. Shoulders and bodies eventually grow with cycles, regardless of trim. Feeding issues will follow.
 
Just my opinion - I used a 308 Win Lee Collet Neck Die for many years, for 600 yds. ATC and long range. At some point, (probably after trying to chamber reloads that didn't fit) I figured out that "neck dies" are NOT what you want to use. Even if you get your issue with the die figured out, you will ultimately have chambering problems sooner or later.

Get rid of the neck die and buy yourself a good quality "full-length" resizing die (Forster, Redding). If you understand enough about reloading, get one with a neck bushing and figure out what size bushing you need (tons of info on here about that).

If you continue to use a neck die, your future will be frustrating to say the least - if you shoot enough.
 
To keep organized on two different issues, Lee Collet Dies versus Neck-only sizing...

Yes, you will need to learn to keep all dies maintained. Oxides, carbon and dirt can accumulate with the lubricants of all dies. Occasional inspection will show you this and you must observe often enough based on your own habits.

Neck sizing versus neck and body sizing is another whole concept and we don't want to derail the OP's thread, but lets say that any neck only sizing technique must be taken as a system. Shoulders and bodies eventually grow with cycles, regardless of trim. Feeding issues will follow.
Thanks
 

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