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Lapua palma brass pockets & flash hole uniforming

Question for FTR shooters;
With your FTR Longrange Loads are many of you guys
uniforming pocket depths and the flash holes with Lapua palma brass ifso are you lowering es and sd along with vertical by much
Is it worth it.
 
Question for FTR shooters;
With your FTR Longrange Loads are many of you guys
uniforming pocket depths and the flash holes with Lapua palma brass ifso are you lowering es and sd along with vertical by much
Is it worth it.
If you get Warm and Fuzzy , go for it. I have seen NO advantage in this task. Just my two cents Tommy Mc
 
My loads got worse after uniforming the flash hole. Uniforming the pocket May have made a small improvement but not significant enough to say for sure.
 
My process for Lapua SRP brass is to visually examine the flash hole for any deviations , to which I've found very little to none . Concerning the primer pocket , I do run a tool into the pocket by hand , to establish a "uniform" depth in the corner to insure a even and flat seating of the primer . I do not try to re-cut the pocket base . Only the corner radius to a squared out corner . I only do this one time on new cases , and on reloads , I use the tool a few quick twists to remove the "gunk" before cleaning . Without trying to re-cut the pocket . Haven't noticed any change in SD or ES , as my process is giving me a pretty consistent 6 to 8 SD , and the target says whatever I'm doing , I'm doing right .
 
Bryan Litz tested this in his book Modern Advancements Vol II and found that on brass with punched flash holes deburring helped but with drilled flash holes it did not. Chamfering the flash holes did not help either and in some cases resulted in worse SD's. I only use brass with drilled flash holes so I have never bothered
 
Every time I open a new box of Lapua, and take the pocket uniforming tool to it - my wrists instantly remind me of the previous time I wasted my time - there's zero resistance when turning the tool - NOTHING is being cut... Also wasted money on the flash hole tool - especially since I learned that you can ruin your brass if you actually cut into the brass around the flash-hole by going too deep (which forms a bevel).

The good news is that the uniforming tool makes a good cleaning tool after decapping and before sonic cleaning.
 
Also wasted money on the flash hole tool - especially since I learned that you can ruin your brass if you actually cut into the brass around the flash-hole by going too deep (which forms a bevel).

I had concerns about putting a bevel, especially any bevel that isn't uniform, on the flash hole until I found the 21st Century Flash Hole Debur Tool. It will debur to flush. When I first use it on my Lapua brass (initially as an experiment), I only occasionally got some kind of burr removed, so it's SOP for all my new brass (only have to do it once anyway), even for my Lapua or Peterson brass.

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Every time I open a new box of Lapua, and take the pocket uniforming tool to it - my wrists instantly remind me of the previous time I wasted my time - there's zero resistance when turning the tool - NOTHING is being cut... Also wasted money on the flash hole tool - especially since I learned that you can ruin your brass if you actually cut into the brass around the flash-hole by going too deep (which forms a bevel).

The good news is that the uniforming tool makes a good cleaning tool after decapping and before sonic cleaning.
My process with Lapua palma brass using K&m tools by hand is to give a couple of turns with both the primer hole uniformer which also removes any slight burr inside the case where the primer hole is punched along with giving the primer pocket uniformer a few twists which seens to remove very small amount of brass from the inside edges of pocket i will have to test es sd along with both uniformed verses un uniformed pockets to see what if any change to groups at 1000y.
 

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