• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

Lap those rings! Keep that scope looking like new.

Of course lapping the scope rings can also improve alignment and prevent stress to the body tube. There's no denying that many of us are a pretty fussy lot who will spend thousands of dollars on custom rifles and equipment trying to make bugholes in a target. So then for the life of me, I can't understand why folks will clamp 2 mass produced metal rings with sharp edges onto their pristine new Leupold or Nightforce scope which produces permanent ugly scratch marks, or WORSE. (ie; distortion) I don't know about you, but I cringe when I see somebody selling a $1,500 Nightforce scope in the classifieds which also includes "ring marks" at no extra charge. (No thank you!)

Well, there are 3 kinds of people who mount scopes without lapping the rings; 1) people who will only use the great Burris Zee Rings with the plastic inserts that circumvents having to lap. 2) People who don't care about scatching their scope, and who will likely live longer then me or you for not sweating over the small stuff. 3) People who don't know that rings will do this until after they have removed the scope and see the dirty deed already done. (and didn't know it could have been avoided.)

You don't have to spend $50-$60 for a fancy set of Wheeler bars. Here's an inexpensive set of 1" and 30mm steel bars that I bought years ago on Ebay. The same guy is still selling the bars there now for $15.99 or $25.99 , + $6.00 shipping.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Scope-lapping-bar-scope-ring-alignment-bar-For-Valdada-Leupold-Weaver-Tasco-/351083441898?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51be342eea
Midway is also selling 1" Possum hollow bars for under $20 as well.



I found it handy to drill a hole in the bars and then JBWeld a screwdriver handle into the bar for an easier grasp. So far, I have lapped rings for 6 rifle scopes and have yet to ever remove any of these scopes to find even the slightest scratches or indentations. Anyway, I'm not trying to tell anybody how they should or shouldn't be mounting there scopes, as much as I am simply trying to provide a useful tip and information, especially for the newer folks who may not realize that damage can occur.
 
I lap them, then epoxy bed the scope in. 0% ring marks, 0% stress, 100% contact.
 
I have always used Warne rings on all my 4 nightforce and 4 bushnell scopes and never had a scratch on any of them And I change scopes around alot :D
 
There's a 4th group as well: those that buy high quality matched rings that need no lapping and don't over-tighten the rings when they install them, causing scratches/denting. ;)

I've seen a *lot* of over-tightened rings on scope tubes.
 
Jay Christopherson said:
There's a 4th group as well: those that buy high quality matched rings that need no lapping and don't over-tighten the rings when they install them, causing scratches/denting. ;)

I've seen a *lot* of over-tightened rings on scope tubes.

+1 I truly feel that machining processes have come a long way in recent years and if you buy high end optics with high end cnc machined rings and mount them properly, ring marks won't exist. JMO.
Bob
 
Jay Christopherson said:
There's a 4th group as well: those that buy high quality matched rings that need no lapping and don't over-tighten the rings when they install them, causing scratches/denting. ;)

I've seen a *lot* of over-tightened rings on scope tubes.




I am with Jay on this 1. The last time i lapped rings was when hair started growing on my chest. ;D
 
bobinpa said:
Jay Christopherson said:
There's a 4th group as well: those that buy high quality matched rings that need no lapping and don't over-tighten the rings when they install them, causing scratches/denting. ;)

I've seen a *lot* of over-tightened rings on scope tubes.

+1 I truly feel that machining processes have come a long way in recent years and if you buy high end optics with high end cnc machined rings and mount them properly, ring marks won't exist. JMO.
Bob
+1 And another good reason to buy an inch pound torque wrench. Later! Frank
 
hedgehoghunter said:
I just purchased a 34mm scope while I use aluminium rings and Bat's bases I tried to find a 34mm lapping bar . Anyone know of anyone that offers this size lapping bar?

Jim

Kokopelli
 
I thought NF advised against Lapping if I remember correctly. I'm not a BR type, but just bought a Model 12 to shoot for fun. I have a NF rail mounted and debating bedding it. Will not lapp the rings. Will probably pull out the action and retourqe the action back in. Bed the action(?). Man I got into this to have fun and haven't shot a round yet.
 
sc1911cwp: You remember correctly. From page 8 of the Owners Manual for the Competition 15-55x and the Benchrest 8-32's & 12-42x's: Note: Do NOT lap the Nightforce Unimount, Extended Unimount, Direct Mount, MagMount or Ultralite rings. Lapping is not necessary with these Nightforce accessories. Lapping these products will void the Nightforce accessory warranty, etc. etc.
 
I can tell from the responses I'm reading thus far that the majority of you guys on this thread know what you are doing and need no mentoring from me. :) For the benefit of the less experienced, of course there's more details to this story, like that one should also have a good set of alignment bars to be able to check the progress with lapping. (lapping, or no lapping) I own two sets of kokepelli's myself. Nope, you guys obviously aren't the ones selling all those scopes in the classifieds with the nasty ring marks. Hopefully, this thread topic might have attracted and enlightened at least one novice shooter who will now check a bit further into the process of properly mounting a scope without causing damage.

How many of you guys have personally witnessed a newbie shooter buy a new Remington VSSFll or some other nice rifle, along with a top dollar Leupold scope, and then let the dealer mount the scope for him before he even walks out of the store? Ouch! :(
 
I watched a kid at Sportsman Warehouse mount a Leupold 8.5-25x VX3 scope in Warne rings. The design of Warne rings requires three hands unless you know what you are doing. Talk about painful to watch. The owner was standing right there so I offered to do it for him, but he passed on my offer. A monkey could have done a better job.
 
I lap my rings, done correctly it doesn't hurt anything, at distance every little thing matters, so other than the cost of the tools there really is no reason not to do it.
 
I'm no expert, but if lapping and bedding rings & mounts are good enough for Tony Boyer, it's good enough for me. The only rings I would not lap and bed are NF Unimounts and NF ultralites. I find myself using Burris Signature Zees some also. Very good advice not to allow the storekeeper mount your rings. My son-in-law left a rifle with the crew at Gander Mountain to install some lens flipup covers. When he brought the rifle here to check zero, it shot over the target by a bunch. Mind you, the rifle had been zeroed for the previous hunting season. A close examination revealed the rifle had been dropped, landing on the topside of the scope objective. This bent the housing downward and caused a "wrinkle" on the underside of the scope tube. Needles to say, Papa G. does all of my son-in-laws scope work these days.
 
He says he will make a 34mm bar, lower in the ad.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Scope-lapping-bar-scope-ring-alignment-bar-For-Valdada-Leupold-Weaver-Tasco-/351052332566?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51bc597e16
 
If done correctly it is a plus. But how accurate are some of the generic lapping bars? Will they hone the bottom ring to a diameter that matches the scope tube?
Secondly, I would never buy a used set of rings that have been lapped.
 
Personally, I'm a fan of Signature Zee rings. But one thing that can be done easily with metal rings, short of lapping, is a simple deburring of the outside edge. You will often see that the ring marks are found right on one edge or another. You don't need to chamfer the outside edge of the ring -- merely smooth away any high spots. This can often be done with a quick pass of a scotchpad. When I saw race engine builders doing this deburring with brand new CNC-machined parts, I realized that there can be a slight rise on the outside edge of the machined part.

Some ring makers tumble their rings before coating -- this should eliminate any raised edges, but it's still worth checking.

Caution: If you have clear-coated or anodized aluminum rings or polished, blued rings, you may want to avoid deburring because it may alter appearance.
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
165,525
Messages
2,197,998
Members
78,961
Latest member
Nicklm
Back
Top