Ken Light Annealer Question

[1shot]

I have a Ken Light Annealer that for most applications does a great job. However some brass could benefit for a little bit longer in the flame. Someone that is electrically inclined probably has and easy fix (but I’m sure no electrician) so is there a way to regulate the speed of the wheel the holds the brass? Someone said, “just wire in a rheostat”. Well I’ve already admitted I’m electrically challenged, so I’m asking the pros, what should I do?
Thanks in advance,
Lloyd

 

[Terry]

Try setting your torches so the brass stays in the combined flame. Skip every other hole for more flame time.

 

[1shot]

Terry,
Maybe I'm missing something, but skipping every other hole doesn't slow the wheel down any. I have the torch heads set so as soon as the case leaves the center of the first flame it is entering the 2nd one.
Thanks,
Lloyd

 

[bozo699]

Loyd,
I have had no troubles adjusting my flames and or skipping a hole as suggested I know that doesn't slow the wheel down but it does keep that piece of brass in the flame longer and it isn't trying the share the flame with another piece of brass. I have however thought it would be nice to speed up or slow down the wheel, so to answer you question no you cannot speed up or slow down the motor without special equipment but what you can do and I think I will, is you put on a dc motor then you can control the speed with a Variac or variable resistor.
Wayne.

 

[nonliberal]

Why not use a slide switch like for ceiling fans? It adjust the speed of the fans up or down. Seems that cutting the power cord and wiring the switch in would work the same since there is hardly any torque load required. I'm not an electrician though, I just play one at home so get a second opinion.

 

[DennisH]

You should be able to place the flame in the correct position so it will hit the brass a little more. I don't have a Ken Light, but one similiar, and this is what I did. In fact, I have two tourches, but after adjusting, I only use one.

I point the flame at the brass as it is coming into the flame. Makes a full circle and the templac is doing it's job correctly.

 

[1shot]

Because of the design of the K-L system you are limited as to how far apart the torch heads are and in which direction they point. On thinner neck turned brass it works like a champ, but on the bigger cartridges such as unturned 284's because of the thickness and the length of the brass that act as a heat sink, they need a little extra time. At least that is what the templac says and is verified by the lack of any color change or a very faint redness while done in limited light. I think nonliberal is on the right path with the slide switch idea. I might swing by Lowe’s and see what they have to offer. I'll keep the forum informed of any progress.
Lloyd

 

[TB]

You could try a variable motor controller.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROUTER-SPEED-CONTROLLER-VARIABLE-AC-MOTOR-RHEOSTAT-BRUSH-TYPE-MOTORS-ONLY-/121038618080?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c2e76bde0

 

[bozo699]

You could try a variable motor controller.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROUTER-SPEED-CONTROLLER-VARIABLE-AC-MOTOR-RHEOSTAT-BRUSH-TYPE-MOTORS-ONLY-/121038618080?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c2e76bde0

This will not work with the motor Ken puts on him machines or at least the one that came on mine, there an induction motor and a controller like this will vary the speed of a motor with brushes but not an induction motor. You could buy a single phase variable frequency drive, your best bet is to use a d.c motor with a controller or a a.c motor w/ brushes and a controller.
Wayne.

 

[Terry]

I have no trouble with .284, .243WSSM, .300WSM or any other brass with the Ken Light Annealer.

By skipping every other hole I get more flame time. By setting the torches so once the brass enters the flame of one torch it stays in the flame of both until it exits the second flame.

What I am looking for is the color of the brass to turn Blue just below the shoulder of the case. This Blue color represents 600 degrees.

With this setup all I need to do is set the flame as needed to get the desired effect.

Terry

 

[bozo699]

I have no trouble with .284, .243WSSM, .300WSM or any other brass with the Ken Light Annealer.

By skipping every other hole I get more flame time. By setting the torches so once the brass enters the flame of one torch it stays in the flame of both until it exits the second flame.

What I am looking for is the color of the brass to turn Blue just below the shoulder of the case. This Blue color represents 600 degrees.

With this setup all I need to do is set the flame as needed to get the desired effect.

Terry

Spot on my findings exactly Terry.
Wayne.

 

[1shot]

OK guys,
Just picked up a couple hundred FF Lapua 243 brass now 243 AI. Thanks to all of you for the suggestions, I'll give it a try.
Lloyd

 

[TB]

Yes, a single phase induction motor would not work with a rheostat. In that case, one would need a pulse width modulator (PWM) which are not terribly difficult to make. I'll see if I can find an inexpensive one that's available, though, just for the heck of it.

 

[1shot]

Thanks TB. You are dealing with an electrical idiot here.
Lloyd

 

[bozo699]

Thanks TB. You are dealing with an electrical idiot here.
Lloyd

Lloyd,
That isn't true, it's just our field, we would feel out-of-place in your's probably, you will get it all figured out, I will give you another piece of advice for what it's worth, there are other annealing machines that are maybe more advanced or maybe others feel that work better than Kens machine but none are more knowledgable than Ken, he is probably the leading authority on annealing, read his stuff on annealing, if that don't get you there he is a super nice guy to talk to and he will help you figure your dilemma out.
Wayne.

 

[Steve Blair]

1Shot, What gas are you using? Bernzomatic's MAP/Pro is notably hotter and handles everything I use. That includes: .30-'06, .300 WSM, .284 Win and Shehane, etc.

 

[1shot]

Ok guys,
Has anyone come up with a source for a pulse width modulator (PWM)? I tried the "every other hole” method and the brass hasn't changed color at all. I ended up doing what I've always done with Lapua brass and that is taken a 3rd torch and pointed it nearly straight down into the mouth of the case when it's in the flame of the number 1 torch. As I see it, either I don't have the proper torch heads, need to start using to Mapp gas or slow the wheel down. As an added note, if I'm using W-W brass, the annealer works great, but with Lapua brass, even neck turned on the thin side the heat isn't enough to get the job done before the case is out of the flames. Thanks for all your advice,
Lloyd

 

[armistemjim]

buy a router speed control unit and control your speed with a plug in unit

 

[1shot]

And where would someone get such an item?
Lloyd

 

[Terry]

Torch heads do matter. You need a single pointed blue flame about 1 1/2 inches long. Torches that produce multiple points will not work.

The instructions that came with it tell which torches to use.

I use propane.