K&M Tapered Case Mouth Reamer

[PALefty]

Does this K&M Reamer perform the same function as one of the two sided,inside/outside) reamers like the one offered from Redding? If no, how does it differ? If yes, is one a better mouse-trap than the other?

 

[fdshuster]

PALefty: The K&M taper reamer provides a gentler,smoother entry angle for the bullet,,especially flat based that may have a pressure ring). A simple test: try balancing a flat based bullet on the case mouth after using the "rocket-ship" design deburring tool. Impossible. Then inside taper neck ream, to a depth of 1/32" maximum, take the same bullet and place it on/in the case mouth. You can turn the case with the bullet pointing down, and it will remain in the mouth of the case. The traditional deburring tool leaves a sharp edge inside the case mouth, which will damage the bullet jacket when seated. Unless your cases are stretching a lot, this is a one time operation. I'm so impressed with the tool, I modified the cutter to fit my Forster case trimmer, and would not seat a bullet unless the case had first been taper neck reamed. A long-winded answer, I know, but it is a great tool, as are all K&M products. fdshuster@hotmail.com

 

[PALefty]

Then inside taper neck ream, to a depth of 1/32" maximum, take the same bullet and place it on/in the case mouth.

I don't understand the poor setup instructions that came with the K&M. 1/32 max.. where is that measured to/from and how do you know if you should use the max or not?

 

[dreever]

I had the K&M sold it because it seemed to easy to take to much. Replaced it with the Lyman VLD 22 degree and like it much better. I't also really inexpensive to boot!

Danny

 

[fdshuster]

PALefty: The three curved pins that rest in the flutes control the cutting depth, and the depth of cut is adjusted by loosening the small set screw & moving the cutter in or out. The 1/32" is measured from the mouth of the case. When the three pins contact the case mouth, they not only stop further,deeper) cutting, but keep your cut the same depth around the circumference. Without the three pins, it would be easy to tip the cutter off center. Most of the other tools have no way of preventing the off-center "tipping". fdshuster@hotmail.com

 

[Forum Boss]

I had the same experience as Danny--with the K&M Tool it is VERY easy to cut too much brass out of your neck, essentially ruining your case. Yes I understand how the three fingers work. But on the four K&M tools I've used over the years, none had all three fingers that hit the neck at the same length. I've tried bending the fingers with pliers etc. to try to get 'em all even, without much success.

I've had the best luck, for inside chamfering, with the simple 45-degree Forster rocket tool. But I have heard good things about both the Holland tool and the Lyman tool,as long as you get a Lyman that's sharp).

Forster:

Lyman:

 

[Nucum]

Adusting the tool takes a little technique at first. I chuck the tool in a vise horizontal then put a case in position. If you have enough light and a white backround you can see the amount of space between the fingers and your case mouth for easy adjustment. I like to do the whole operation with tool chucked in the vise. If only the donut cutter worked this will.

 

[PALefty]

ok, thanks... I think I have it now. I already used the 'rocket' one, so I will have to wait until I re-trim my brass to put it through the paces. I wish the instructions on this and a bunch of other items were more detailed. They all seem to take a lot for granted. It should also include a warning on not to pull it out too far. That thing is a pain to put back in~