just starting out

[jraney]

hey folks i got a reloader it is a lee breech lock challenger press. i will be reloading with rcbs dies for my .223 & 22-250
i was wondering what powder and primers would you all recomend. i plan on going to cabelas this weekend to get those things any other info you all could give me would be great.

thanks
j

 

[jraney]

50 to 60 grain bullets

 

[1000yardstare]

What are the twists in your .223 and .22-250? Slow twists could limit you to 50 gr bullets. I have owned .223s and .22-250s that keyholed with 55 gr BlitzKings. The bullet is too long for slow twists.

Any primer is good for general shooting. With the primer situation today you may have no choice. Grab what you can.

If you want just one powder to start with, H4895 works well in both cartridges and is generally available.

Consult reloading manuals for starting loads.

 

[Cort]

J,

Do you have any books on reloading? I always start new cartridges by using starting data from my Lyman Handbook.

Picking bullets depends on what your intended target is. Serious paper punching normally uses different components from plinking loads. Varmint loads tend to be different from target loads. Most people load 50 - 60 grain bullets in both calibers you want to reload. Sierra, Berger, Hornady all have good products and choices for you.

The .223 uses small rifle primers while the 22-250 uses large rifle primers. Neither caliber needs magnum primers so a primer of the right size is most important. I like CCI primers but have used other brands when I couldn't get CCI.

There are a few powders that will work in both cartridges. I suspect that what works well for the .223 is only ok in the 22-250 and vice-versa.

Today, we often pick components based upon what our supplier has in stock instead of what we want. You might want to read the .223 info page on 6mmbr. com. I suspect there is a similar site for the 22-250 but I don't have a URL for it.

http://www.6mmbr.com/223Rem.html

Good luck with your choices.

Cort

 

[jraney]

hey thanks for the info. the twist of the 250 is a 12 the 223 i am not sure but it has shot 50grhp and 55grfmj very well 45grs not so well so i might have to do some research on that. when i bought my reloader i got it from midway usa the book i bought called gun guides it is a small book for both calibers i have not gotten to read much of it yet but maybe it is just me it looks like rocket science so anything you folks could tell me would be great.


thanks
j

 

[jraney]

oh yea both guns are just varmint and deer guns so the 55-60 would be perfect as far as legal stuff is concerned.

 

[jraney]

are the lee dies any good to use? which ones should i get there is several to choose from?

 

[jo191145]

Geez, don't buy any of those Cabelas Mag Tech 7.5 primers. Just bought 2000 of em and its a mix between watching popcorn pop and the fourth of July.

 

[jraney]

just talked to H&R firearms to find the twist of my .223 and it is a 1:9 twist so how heavy of a bullet will that stabalize and are some bullets easier to stabalize than others? can flat base bullets be as accurate as boattails or does that have little to do with accuracy? any help would be great.

thanks

J

 

[TheSnake]

While I am sure there are many individual tips you can get from the great folks on this forum, there are many aspects to reloading that you should at least have a basic understanding of before you start. When I started some 30 years ago, I read two great books at that time before I resized my first piece of brass. “The complete book of practical handloading” by John Wootters and “The Accurate Rifle” by Warren Page. Reading these books gave me a overall understanding of what to do, how to do it and why. They also let me decide what path I wanted to take with my reloading. Reloading for failsafe hunting is somewhat different than reloading for outstanding accuracy and there are many mixes of both. There are many more tools and reloading components available today than when I started and I am sure there are books out there more modern then the two I mention. I would suggest that you either find an experienced mentor that can show you the ropes or get a good book and read it from cover to cover to gain an overall understanding of the whole picture. With you just starting out, there are many different directions you can take. The more overall understand you have, the better decision you can make on the direction that best meet your goals. This information is probably available on-line but I like a book handy to revert to if I have any doubts about something. It can be rocket science if you want it to be but doesn’t have to be.

Good luck and welcome to a hobby/sport that is very enjoyable and provides much satisfaction, not to mention can save tons of money.

 

[jraney]

hey thanks for the info about the books, just in case anyone was wondering what i plan on relaoding for it is simply for accuracy nothin bugs me more than not hitting what i aim at, i beleive that with good eqiuptment and practice there is no reason for missed shots whether it be shooting paper or animals if the target is a dime at 100yds i want to hit it.

 

[jraney]

ok folks i think i need some more help. I went to cabelas and got some IMR3031 along with some sierra bullets 52gr hpbt
& 60gr hp and 2 more books for loading they are the 1 caliber specific books i got 1 for the 223 and 1 for the 250. now here is where my trouble is in the 223 book there are no loads for my bullets with my powder however there is 1 for a 60gr hornady bullet with my powder, how do i solve my problem?

 

[necchi]

Well that's the dickens of it.
I shoot handis too. What ya need to do is by a different powder.
I'm having good luck with Varget and H4895 in the 223, both are on the list for sierra bullets you have. I like the Hogdons "Extreme" powder be cause of their relative temp insensitivity

 

[Bistem]

just talked to H&R firearms to find the twist of my .223 and it is a 1:9 twist so how heavy of a bullet will that stabalize and are some bullets easier to stabalize than others?

69gr sierra matchkings shot extremely well in my 1:9 twist AR-15 but 70gr Bergers didnt do well at all. I would stick with 69gr and under but you may want to try the 69 SMK's They are very nice.

I used Varget powder in it and remington 7 1/2 primers in range pickup brass and easily did .5moa with that AR

 

[jraney]

you folks think it would have a load in another book? if so which book would you all suggest i would think a sierra book would work but really i am new. any advice would be great.

thanks

J

 

[jraney]

has anybody used the IMR3031 powder if so did it do well or what.

 

[jraney]

is it possible to use the load data i have for another bullet the same weight to get started with my 223 or does it absolutely have to be the same bullet?

 

[BIGGUNGOBOOM]

OK, so here's my take on it. and remember that everyone does it different.
(1) get better reloading books....... reloading books are nothing but a starting point and a suggestion, the more you have the better knowledge you can use to pin point a load. that being said NEVER start at MAX loads. always start at least at the min, work up slowly. make 5 rounds of each powder charge moving up in .05 increments "IE 26.0, 26.5, 27.0 ect" to max. then once you have found a charge that seems to be the most accurate. lets say 26.5. then try 26.2, 26.4, 26.6, 26.8 something like that in small increments.

(2) Ammo reloading isnt rocket science its the use of common sense and working slow without distractions.

(3) Always double check yourself

(4) the more knowledge you have the better off you will be.

you have started with what I would say are two of the most forgiving rounds. stay within Min and Max and you should find a great load. take the time to make sure everything is great, get the ABC's of reloading book and READ it.. again it comes back to the more info you have the better off you will be.

Pressure sighs, Im sure you have a somewhat Idea what a primer indent looks like with factory loads. a nice indent into the primer, well as your pressure's come up look at each load after fireing the first round of each powder charge, look at the primers. if it looks like the primer strike has a DO-NUT looking ring around the hole or if it looks flat your getting towards the pressures. stop and back off

there are several Factory sites that have there own data available for you to look at like
http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp
http://www.accuratepowder.com/loaddata_caliber_rifle.htm
http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/default.aspx?page=/reloaders/index.aspx&
http://www.handloads.org/loaddata/default.asp?

now these shouldnt be you all the time go to's but thy help with determining things like powder, charge, and velocity.

start small "again I know" get comfortable with the process, get a good sizing lube "IE hornady spray lube, wax lube or even Imperial sizing wax" it is a must need.

follow the die instructions and read them over and over for the correct setup.

Once you have the basics down then you will be able to learn and put advanced reloading skills to use.

(5) get a good pair of calipers either standard dial or electronic. I really like the Harbor freight electronic ones and they are on sale all the time.

(6) chamfer tool

(7) good primer tool

(8) good scale "plenty to choose from"

as far as powder the IMR 3031 works pretty well in 223, I have used it with Great success. I haven't tried it in 22-250 my go to powder for that is IMR 4064 and H380.

223 uses SR primers were as 22-250 uses LR primers

Im sure I missed something but you shouldn't be afraid to ask questions. there are a lot of years and experience on this site and you will find that answers will come when asked.

GOOD LUCK
BIGGUNGOBOOM

 

[Mikem]

I would recommend gitting the Sierra manual, I think you would use it most of the time, and when a book doesn't mention the exact bullet weight your trying to load with, look at the closest bullet both heaver and lighter, and start between them, and near the bottom of the recommended charge, now you can safely work you way up.
Most guys loading for accuracy will use a bushing type neck sizer, but since you will need a full length (F.L.) sizing die anyway, you might as well start there, and take a good look at Forester or Redding die sets, and you cant go wrong.

There's lots of good info posted above already, so read and heed, and think safety.

FYI:
You can find a barrels twist in 5 min, by using your cleaning rod, a jag, patch and a bit of masking tape.
Start the rod in the chambers bore 2 or 3", then mark the rod with tape at a spot on the action, and put a small flag of masking tape sticking out one side of the rod back by the handle. Now insert the rod until the flag makes one complete rotation, then mark the rod again at the same place by the action. Now remove the rod and measure between the two marks. And you will have the twist, as 1 rotation in ? inches, (or 1 in 9" in your 223)
Mike.

 

[jraney]

hey thanks for the info. i talked to a fella at work that has reloaded in the past and he said that the book he used did not give a specific bullet name just weight, does this sound correct? i have already buoght a digital caliper from midway usa it is a frankford arsenal. the book the abc's of reloading where can i get that? about the dies i also bought the 2 die set of rcbs from cabelas my reloader came with some lube and cabelas only had 2 powders and i only had enough $$$ for 1 but i plan on getting some different powders, books, and bullets, any thing else, please let me know. thanks