JGS Adjustable Reamer Stop

[LVLAaron]

I like this design. Looks like the outer stop collar rotates so you're not rubbing against the barrel tenon.

 

[boltfluter]

I guess I don't get why this is needed. Why not just use the graduation on your tailstock? What am I missing?
Paul

 

[LVLAaron]

I move the tailstock a lot... so the graduations are useless to me.

 

[WayneShaw]

I guess I don't get why this is needed. Why not just use the graduation on your tailstock? What am I missing?
Paul

That's all I've ever done. I place the carriage where I want it and lock it down. Run the TS up against the carriage and lock it. Advance reamer. Easy to lift the TS lever and pull it back to clean reamer, move back in place, lock, and advance. Take measurement, and advance using TS graduations. Easy.

 

[boltfluter]

That's all I've ever done. I place the carriage where I want it and lock it down. Run the TS up against the carriage and lock it. Advance reamer. Easy to lift the TS lever and pull it back to clean reamer, move back in place, lock, and advance. Take measurement, and advance using TS graduations. Easy.

Wayne,
Exactly how I have done it as well. Just curious why the need for a mechanical stop.
Paul

 

[butchlambert]

Wayne,
Exactly how I have done it as well. Just curious why the need for a mechanical stop.
Paul

I didn't know that there was another way.

 

[hogpatrol]

I also use the tailstock and on an old Clausing with no dial, an indicator set up. I can see if you're doing multiple barrels the same cartridge in succession, it would be a big time saver.

 

[butchlambert]

I also use the tailstock and on an old Clausing with no dial, an indicator set up. I can see if you're doing multiple barrels the same cartridge in succession, it would be a big time saver.

On my old Clausing I machined it to accept a Bridgeport dial. I did buy a 10" DRO to mount on it, but I've never gone to the trouble to mount it.

 

[DaveTooley]

I never measure until I'm one , maybe two passes left. For the last pass bottom reamer, make contact with the tailstock, bottom a time or two to settle it in, set the hand wheel to zero, rotate to the number required. Easy peezy

 

[Tucker65]

I also lock my carriage down and run my tailstock against it for a stop. When I get close I stop and set the tailstock dial on zero. I then measure what I want to cut and then move the carriage ahead what ever depth of cut I want and lock the carriage back down. Then when I run the reamer in with the tailstock I'm always going back to zero and not having to split between lines to get the amount I need to go in. I used to use a dial indicator on the carriage but I have a dro setup on the lathe now so it's easier to do without having to worry about bumping the indicator.

 

[Southwest Action Works]

Put you a DRO on your tail stock and use your carriage as a stop for the tail stock. Lock the carriage down That way your tail stock goes back into the same place every time.

 

[LVLAaron]

Put you a DRO on your tail stock

That sounds like a lot of work.

 

[Jud96]

I’m actually thinking of making my own adjustable reamer stop. My lathe doesn’t have a micrometer dial on the tailstock, just a rough scale on the quill. I was thinking of making a collar that locks on the tailstock quill and use a plunge indicator or attach a digital caliper to it for accurate read out, but the adjustable reamer stop makes a lot more sense to me. I think it kills two birds with one stone, it eliminates the possibility of over shooting your headspace, and gives very accurate adjustments to the reamer depth.

 

[hogpatrol]

Similar to my Clausing setup, except mine is on the quill and the indicator is on the side of the tailstock.

 

[Henryrifle]

Good find @LVLAaron!

Hank

 

[Southwest Action Works]

That sounds like a lot of work.

Nah just make it a clamp on Hit your head space 100% 100% of the time

 

[DaveTooley]

I’m actually thinking of making my own adjustable reamer stop. My lathe doesn’t have a micrometer dial on the tailstock, just a rough scale on the quill. I was thinking of making a collar that locks on the tailstock quill and use a plunge indicator or attach a digital caliper to it for accurate read out, but the adjustable reamer stop makes a lot more sense to me. I think it kills two birds with one stone, it eliminates the possibility of over shooting your headspace, and gives very accurate adjustments to the reamer depth.

That's exactly how I did it on all my manual lathes. A piece of flat stock bored to fit the quill and a 2" travel indicator on a magnetic base. Everyone should have the indicator as standard equipment anyway. I used it to monitor depth of the cut and depth of the final pass. Takes about a minute to set up.

 

[LVLAaron]

I've got a might mag, My tailstock doesn't have any flat surfaces, they're slightly curved, so using it is difficult. I've seen some guys make some pretty nice mounts for a 6 inch dro that I might investigate, because I'll admit, as much as I like the reamer stop, it's a bit fiddly to get set up, in the correct position, etc.

 

[butchlambert]

That sounds like a lot of work.

Very easy and simple, as well as inexpensive.

 

[LVLAaron]

Will work on something like this. I wont let you down.