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issues with my bags and setup, follow up shot(s), discombobulation

I am having a lot more trouble than I thought I would have with my first bench rest setup. Here is my kit:

-Remington 40X TDR in .308
-Sinclair Generation II Bench Rest front w/ Edgewood reinforced bag
-Edgewood MiniGator rear bag

Granted, I am new at this. I spend all kinds of time getting everything all lined up and seated real nice, cross-hairs cemented to the bullseye...squeeze the trigger and then...I am completely discombobulated. Gun is aimed way above the target, usually off to the right. If I slide the rifle forward in the bags to where it initially started, I am still way off in windage and somewhat off in elevation. Also, because I am free-recoiling the rifle, my triggy finger gets ripped up real good as the trigger guard tears it on the way rearward. Obviously, I am doing things all wrong. Where should I start in the quest for a smooth, professional, efficient and repeatable bench-rest setup? Thanks a million for any help here.
 
Can't speak for anyone else, but I can only use free recoil with my light recoiling, heavyweight rifles, like the 6ppc that weighs 10.5 or 13.5 pounds, depending on the barrel/scope combination. With that rifle, it works fine, but I cannot use free recoil with my 10.5 pound 308--- just too much recoil, for me.
 
The problem is generally the shooter. First, .308 is a lot of cartridge for BR if you are talking about 100-200 yards. What is the length of pull of your stock? If it is too long you can't sit in a position that allows your shoulders to be close to parallel to the firing line and the rifle butt will slide sideways on recoil. Did you pack the bags too tightly? If you did the rifle will bounce around like you are using lumber for a rest. The bags should help absorb the vibration and shock of recoil. Are you jerking the trigger? That will pull you sideways. It's normal for the point of aim to be above the target on recoil because of the drop of the rear stock but you should be able to be back on target when you push the rifle forward again. There, you said it was probably something you were doing. Now, if you are shooting longer ranges and need the extra capacity of a full .308 disregard most of what I said.
 
Yea...is it just me, or does the .308 kick HARD...a lot harder than one would assume when comparing it to say an M1 Garrand, .30-06. Granted the -06 is a little more powerful, but my .308 turns my shoulder into meatball.


fdshuster said:
Can't speak for anyone else, but I can only use free recoil with my light recoiling, heavyweight rifles, like the 6ppc that weighs 10.5 or 13.5 pounds, depending on the barrel/scope combination. With that rifle, it works fine, but I cannot use free recoil with my 10.5 pound 308--- just too much recoil, for me.
 
Well, the M1 Garand is an automatic or semi-auto. Those use gas from the firing to operate the action. So, in the same cartridge it would recoil less.

I shoot an semi-auto shotgun and can fire 400 rounds a day. Give me an over under and my shoulder is hurting after 5 rounds. Makes a big difference.
 
I agree with Frank. I think the recoil of your .308 is too much to shoot it free recoil. I would imagine it would take a pretty heavy .308 to get it to work the way you want. I would try pinning the gun to the rest with shoulder pressure and see what sorts of groups you can get with that technique.

For comparison, I have a .22-250 sporter rifle with hot loads I tried to shoot free recoil. Didn't work cause it was too light and with just enough recoil for it to torque in the bags. Exactly what you describe without the tore up finger. Went back to pinning it and it fixed the problem. Still doesn't go right back onto the POI, but close enough.
 
I Googled your rifle and looked for images. There is no way that a rifle of any caliber, with a stock of that design will shoot its best from the bench free recoil. On the other hand, it may shoot very well using another style. Try to find someone that is having good results with a similar rifle, and find out how they are shooting it. I would shoulder, and cheek the rifle, pulling it into my shoulder with my trigger hand, without too much down force on the comb. Position the front bag no more than a couple of inches in front of the action. To do this you may have to remove the forend stop from your rest top. When shooting, slowly add pressure to the trigger, so that it surprises you when it goes off, and be sure to follow through by trying to watch the bullet hole appear in the target. You may not be able to see this, but trying to will help you follow through correctly. Use something to help you see what the wind is doing, is not flags, sticks and surveyor's tape. Do your load workups at the range. You will get there much more efficiently. Good luck. Report your progress.
 
Remember with bags the rifle will always be pointing upward after shooting it because of the stock design. It will also do it with a stock with a straight bottom as the stock settles into the rear bag after firing. Push it forward and it will be at a higher point of aim.
Butch
 

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