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Is this load too hot

I have seen those push pin ejector marks on brass that were mild fire-form loads. Sometimes it is just how the ejector sits in the bolt. A little polishing with Flitz or a similar polish can do wonders on the ejector pin/plunger and the hole in the bolt face. If actually a burr, use a 600 grit or finer lapping compound to clean it up.

Agree with several posts above that the firing pin hole in the bolt face appears to be oversized and allowing the primer cup to flow into the excess space. Having a bushing installed could remedy this, if you feel it is an issue.

Otherwise, I have to agree with a couple of other posters. The primer does not appear to be flattened, the rim does not appear to be deformed from hard extraction, and what is visible could be readily explained. That would leave me to wonder about the ease of chambering, does the bolt close easily? Also would wonder about bolt lift after the shot. Is the bolt hard to lift or the case hard to extract? If no to all of these, I would question your load as having too much pressure.

My free advise to use as you wish....
 
I usually ignore flattened primers or slight cratering for the most part and stop when I start seeing any trace of an ejector mark on the back of the case. I use Federal primers and they may be more soft than others.
Pressure.jpg
There shouldn't be a problem pressing out live primers. I've never had one fire and have done many. Primers go off by impact force, not pressure. They can flattened if done slowly without detonating. In most presses, the channel under the primer (if your press is made this way) will vent any explosion out and to the side of the press (hopefully away from you). Just press any out very slowly and always wear hearing and eye protection.

primer2.jpg
 
As posted before are you jamming your rounds ? I would back off your loads , by the look of the case head that ejector mark would be a good reason to lower my chargre. It would be a good idea to keep a stuck case remover in your range bag , you dont want to rip off a case head with the case body stuck in your chamber.
I would start by checking your case headspace , trim length , are you jumping or jamming your rounds and bottoming your primers when seating. Lower your loads to mid range an work up by .4
I would think by the look of the case your bolt lift must be stiff , you dont want problems on your bolt locking lugs.
 
I think look of your brass is misleading.You did not give COAL.I shoot 43.5gr varget lapua brass 210m primer just off lands(2.842"COAL)@2800fps(at sea level+)primers are flat but no smear. See T-shooters excellent pics.(thank you T-shooter for the always great graphics) 43.5 is the middle of a node on my rifle.(rem 700 w/28"hart barrel)There was another node @44.5gr and 2850fps but for 50fps I choose lower node to shoot. Watch the feel of the bolt and check condition of bolt face for burrs.Good luck with your project. JD
 
I always ask; did you measure the diameter of the case head before firing?. Did you measure the diameter of the flash hole or primer pocket? Did you measure the protrusion of the extractor above the bolt face? Is the extractor an innie or an outtie. Is the extractor flush with the bolt face? Is there any way for you to determine what is supporting the case head the moment the trigger is pulled? If the extractor is protruding from the bolt face I would expect the extractor to dent the case head, that would just be one of those .7854 things.

F. Guffey
 
And then remove the extractor, chamber a round and then pull the trigger, check the case head or a protrusion of brass into the extractor hole and listen for the bolt snap.

F. Guffey
 
According to my Nosler reloading manual, the maximum load for a 308 Winchester shooting 175 grain projectiles and using Varget powder is 43.5 grains of powder; the Speer manual is a bit more generous setting a maximum charge of 46 grains. The primers don't appear to be flattened, the only question is the ejector marks. You haven't mentioned any bolt lift issues so all in all it looks as though you're safe.
 
Those are indeed "pressure signs". But pressure signs are like opinions. Everyone's got one and a lot of them aren't worth listening to. If the rifle functions, the load is ok by the book, velocity checks out, and the brass is holding up, it's good. I won't advocate ignoring pressure signs, but they are just clues, not law. Everything in context.
 

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