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Is there a noticable difference in a 1" tube going to a 30mm tube?

ssv1761982

Silver $$ Contributor
What is really the gain on tow comparable scopes with different tube sizes?
I have 6.5 x 20 older Leupolds. There is a 6.5 x 20 30mm with the side focus on sale locally. I like it but is it worth the $$? What would I really gain?
 
All else being equal, you will get more light. Typically a larger front element on the 30mm tubes, for more light gathering. Think of the tube with water flowing through it, bigger allows more if everything else is equal, same with light.
 
I am not trying to be contrary but Read this, http://www.chuckhawks.com/riflescopes_same.htm . Personally I like 30mm scope tubes.
 
wmdron said:
I am not trying to be contrary but Read this, http://www.chuckhawks.com/riflescopes_same.htm . Personally I like 30mm scope tubes.
Quoting from the Randy Wakeman article your link pointed to:

"The sad fact is that many mass produced rifles have scope mounting holes that are so far out of alignment with the bore that scopes with one inch tubes and the typical +/- 50 inches of windage adjustment at 100 yards cannot be zeroed."

WOW! I had no ideal that gun manufacturers we're so sorry they could not line up a few holes. I mean that should be basic machine shop practices. Isn't that something they teach in machine shop 101?

Freakin SAD!
 
They are better all the way around depending what you use it for... more light, more adjustments in turrets etc etc.. 1 inch tubes are kind of being fazed out imo... over the years 30mm and 34mm have really taken off..
 
dixieppc said:
wmdron said:
I am not trying to be contrary but Read this, http://www.chuckhawks.com/riflescopes_same.htm . Personally I like 30mm scope tubes.
Quoting from the Randy Wakeman article your link pointed to:

"The sad fact is that many mass produced rifles have scope mounting holes that are so far out of alignment with the bore that scopes with one inch tubes and the typical +/- 50 inches of windage adjustment at 100 yards cannot be zeroed."

WOW! I had no ideal that gun manufacturers we're so sorry they could not line up a few holes. I mean that should be basic machine shop practices. Isn't that something they teach in machine shop 101?

Freakin SAD!


Thats true... i recently sold a very good shooting 22-250 that at 100 yards it shot between clicks in the scope... at 100 yards say a dime as a target for example... aim at it itd hit the right side... one click left itd hit the left side... couldnt hit the center unless i aimed at an edge...
 
Here is another take on this subject from someone who appears to know what he is talking about and says he has the degree to back it up, read koshkins two comments about halfway down the page http://www.opticstalk.com/30mm-vs-1inch-tube-for-light_topic1696.html My own experience for what that is worth is that the clearest & brightest scope to my eye that I own is a Swaro Z5 with a 1" tube that I have on a varmint rifle, a close second is my Zeiss Victory 30mm on another varminter. That being said I prefer the 30mm for the more robust construction and the extra adjustment, so for me paying extra for a 30mm is worth it.
 
ssv1761982 said:
What is really the gain on tow comparable scopes with different tube sizes?
I have 6.5 x 20 older Leupolds. There is a 6.5 x 20 30mm with the side focus on sale locally. I like it but is it worth the $$? What would I really gain?

Given the above, all the same optics and stuff, the only thing you will gain from a 30mm tube over the 1 inch (25.4mm) tube is more adjustment range, and perhaps a small amount of greater strength in the tube. If you plan on using the tube to pound in nails, that last bit may be of some use, at least for a little while.

The amount of light entering the tube is a direct function of the size of the objective lens. The bigger the objective lens the more light that comes in. From that point on, it's all about how the light is managed in the scope in how much light will get to the eyepiece and how it will be presented to the eye.

Let's compare a 30mm scope to a 1-inch scope with the same objective lens size and the same magnification range. If the 30mm scope has a greater range of adjustment, it simply means that internally the lenses are the same size as the 1 inch scope. It will not perform any better than the latter scope, all else being equal.

You see, everything in optics is governed by well understood rules of physics and a riflescope is the expression of the manufacturer's decisions on the various trade-offs it made when putting it together. You get to decide which parameter you can change to get the performance you desire.

For example, I already stated the larger the objective, the more light that comes into the system. So, you want the biggest objective you can get but the trade-off is a bigger, bulkier scope. Not sure I would want to go hunting deer with a 100mm lens, that makes for a BIG, heavy scope. Think spotting scope size here. Also, your eye is a marvel of trade-offs and limitations and one of them is the size of the pupil. At some point your eye can't handle the amount of incoming light so there is no need to always have a massive objective lens, especially when you figure out that the size of the exit pupil, what is presented to your eye, is a direct result of the objective size divided by the magnification.

A young person's eye can use an exit pupil size of about 7mm, anything more than that is "wasted." As you age, that size diminishes by a millimeter or more over time. So taking our putative 100mm objective and a magnification of 3X, you can see that 33.3 mm exit pupil is overkill. On the other hand, at 25X on a nice day, you will have a really bright picture.

So one of the trade-offs is the size of the objective Vs the magnification. In daylight, on a sunny day, your pupil will constrict and maybe 1 or 2 mm is more than enough for a nice bright picture so you 100mm scope with a 50X magnification is performing, well, brilliantly. But at night, it sucks.

Another optical rule is that the larger the lens the more light that goes through it. We know that already from the objective lens discussion, but this also applied to the internal lenses. What? You thought the only important lens was the objective and that from that point on light was like water through a pipe? A riflescope is very different from a regular telescope such as a spotting scope, because you have a reticle that can be adjusted internally. In the olden days the crosshairs were moved to the desired point of aim inside the scope; they were not centered in the image presented to your eye Another method was external adjustment of the scope until the always centered crosshairs were finally on the desired point of aim.

Nowadays, most riflescopes have an internal tube, with a reticle centered at the front (FFP) or at the rear, behind the zoom lenses (SFP) and this tube is moved around or "adjusted" using the elevation and windage knobs. The internal lenses have to be of a size that will fit in the internal tube and still allow for adjustment room. If the lenses are the same size in a 1-inch tube and in a 30mm tube, the latter will have more adjustment rooms, WITH THE SAME SIZE internal lenses and internal tube and the 1-inch scope.

Now, when you compare a 1-inch to a 30mm scope, if they have the same adjustment range, then you can presume that the 30mm scope has larger internal lenses, especially if it's from a reputable vendor. For example, my NF NXS has the same (low) adjustment range (45MOA total) as most 1-inch scope. To me that means bigger internal lenses, better optical performance, especially at higher magnifications.

My March-X scope has a 34mm tube, but virtually the same adjustment range as the NXS; once again, bigger internal lenses and better optical performance, and I see the difference in the early mornings and heavily overcast competition days.

So the rule here is bigger lenses (in and out) provide better optical performance, but there are costs ($ and otherwise) associated with that. You can see an example of that with the sports photographers' camera lenses. Have you seen, held and priced these lenses? If you think a March-X is expensive at $3500, you will fall down when you see the prices of those lenses.

Please note that I tried to use simpler concepts in the above post and I didn't cover all aspects of a rifle scope and optics. I just tried to address the misconceptions presented earlier.

Caveat emptor is a great rule to live by.

ETC: I had mistyped 25.2mm, when it's in fact 25.4. I am mortified by that typo.
 
The main reason for 30mm is to allow more internal reticle adjustment. Extra light is a by-product of the design. But you can put a cheap 30mm or even a cheap 34mm like the one made by Millett next to my Zeiss HD5 with a 1" tube and I guarantee my Zeiss will be seeing into the dark clearly a lot longer than those cheaper scopes. So glass quality is probably the most major factor in low light performance, not the tube diameter. 30mm is just a hair bigger than 1" anyhow.

As for adjustments, some manufacturers like Zeiss are starting to come up with technology that allows crazy amounts of adjustment in a 1" tube using high magnification ranges. The new Zeiss HD5 has 65 MOA of vertical adjustment in a 1" tube on their 5-25x model. That's insane for a 1" tube with that level of magnification.

Being you're talking Leupold to Leupold, unless you want a little more adjustment, I doubt you'll see a difference between the two scopes.

And the OLDER Leupold glass is probably better quality than the newer stuff anyhow. Especially if your scopes are from the 80s or early 90s. Back then, Leupold used the best glass they could get their hands on for everything they made. Now the best glass can only be found in their most expensive models like the Mark 4 on up.
 
From Leupold's site, there is more adjustment in a 30mm, than a old 1" tube.
49mm for a 1' tube, and 77mm MOA of adjustment for 30mm tube. Weight is the same, as the eye relief for both.
 
The most obvious difference to me is vertical adjustment. That's why all the high end tactical scopes have gone to 34mm so they can get 20mils in a two turn. knob that isn't 2" taller than the scope body.

As for light, the beam as it goes through the body is only a small fraction of the volume of the tube, not going to make much difference there.
 
Ledd Slinger said:
The main reason for 30mm is to allow more internal reticle adjustment. Extra light is a by-product of the design.

There is no "extra light."

But you can put a cheap 30mm or even a cheap 34mm like the one made by Millett next to my Zeiss HD5 with a 1" tube and I guarantee my Zeiss will be seeing into the dark clearly a lot longer than those cheaper scopes. So glass quality is probably the most major factor in low light performance, not the tube diameter.
Which is why I used the phrase "all things being equal." Of course quality is the main factor.

30mm is just a hair bigger than 1" anyhow.

Big ash hair at 4.6 millimeter; the difference between 30mm and 1-inch tubes. That 4.6mm is enough to almost double the adjustment range.


As for adjustments, some manufacturers like Zeiss are starting to come up with technology that allows crazy amounts of adjustment in a 1" tube using high magnification ranges. The new Zeiss HD5 has 65 MOA of vertical adjustment in a 1" tube on their 5-25x model. That's insane for a 1" tube with that level of magnification.

I suspect they are using thinner material for the inner tube, something like titanium or maybe carbon fiber, or they are using smaller internal lenses and thus a smaller inner tube. Or maybe the outer tube is thinner which is entirely possible since the Terra is touted as an extremely lightweight scope.

Being you're talking Leupold to Leupold, unless you want a little more adjustment, I doubt you'll see a difference between the two scopes.

And the OLDER Leupold glass is probably better quality than the newer stuff anyhow. Especially if your scopes are from the 80s or early 90s. Back then, Leupold used the best glass they could get their hands on for everything they made. Now the best glass can only be found in their most expensive models like the Mark 4 on up.

I haven't a clue about Leupold; I only have one of their scope and it's a lousy Vari-X 2 that I bought 30 years ago. I can't even zero the thing anymore.

So while what you say may be true of Leupold, I can assure you that I would much rather have modern HD glass than what was the state of the art 20 years ago. CNC technology, along with better coating technology gives us better glass at all price points.
 
Wow! You really picked that apart didn't you? Lol.

30mm does give a slight light advantage, though not really noticeable.

4.6mm, or 3/16", wider tube is significant in optics terms I suppose, but you're not going to double the adjustment.

Modern HD glass is great, but you're gonna pay for it no doubt. The quality of vintage American and Japanese glass rivals or surpasses the upper mid level glass of today's scopes. So if you still have them, it's wise to keep them around. Even if only for a reliable backup plan.
 
bayou shooter's excellent answer aside, all I can say in addition is that you will see an improvement in glass quality in the VX 3 over the older VX III. The only negative (aside from having to buy new rings) might be that Leupold still doesn't seem to have their side-focus lash "problem" completely worked out. Also, fwiw, regarding the VX3 LR field of view: to my eyes, objects appear smaller than some of my other scopes set at the same magnification level; I really wish Leupold would have made this model in 6-24X and with a 42 mm objective lens.
 
Ledd Slinger said:
Wow! You really picked that apart didn't you? Lol.

I sure did, I wanted to address the points specifically and make sure I was being accurate and fair.

30mm does give a slight light advantage, though not really noticeable.
That's what one calls a throwaway line with nothing to back it up. If you could please explain how you can get a "slight light advantage" using the same size objective lens, internal tube and lenses, and eyepiece, I would really appreciate it.

4.6mm, or 3/16", wider tube is significant in optics terms I suppose, but you're not going to double the adjustment.
Well, that's the difference that provides the increase in adjustment range going fro 25.4 to 30. I have a Nikon Monarch 1-inch scope with a 44mm objective that has about 43 MOA of adjustment range and I have another Monarch also with a 44mm objective and a 30mm tube that provides 90-some MOA of elevation.

My point is that if you 30mm scope is providing over 75MOA of adjustment range, it's using the same size internal lenses as a 1-inch scope and these usually have about 40MOA of adjustment range. I did say "almost double". That 4.6mm is the key to the much bigger adjustment range.

Modern HD glass is great, but you're gonna pay for it no doubt. The quality of vintage American and Japanese glass rivals or surpasses the upper mid level glass of today's scopes. So if you still have them, it's wise to keep them around. Even if only for a reliable backup plan.

Well, in this case, what you are presenting is an opinion, not a fact. Also, grading optical performance without instruments is a very subjective task at best. I will say that dollar for dollar, irrespective of inflation, it is my OPINION, that glass quality has improved greatly over the decades, and progress on lens coating has been impressive to say the least.

I do agree that HD glass is great, in fact it's more than great, it's almost magical. I am very impressed by and pleased with my new March-X scope.
 
I guarantee the two Nikon scopes you mentioned don't have the same magnification range. Lets talk apples to apples here Mr Optics Expert...
The Monarch X with 30mm tube in 2.5-10x has 80 MOA of vertical adjustement, the regular Monarch with 1" tube in 2.5-10x has 70 MOA of vertical adjustment. WOW 10 MOA! what a huge gain! ::)

The quality of old Japanese glass is NOT an opinion. It IS high quality glass. Always has been and always will be. I can buy a vintage 3-9x Tasco scope.made in Japan for $45 on ebay but have to spend $300-$500 to get glass of equal quality in a modern scope. There's no denying that. Pick one up on ebay and use all the instruments you want if you don't believe me.

Nikon Monarch X is your idea of HD glass? Hate to burst your bubble, but Nikon does not make a Monarch scope of any kind with HD glass.

How about you look through some "actual" flourite HD glass before you comment any further...
 
This will be my last answer to you. (Hooray!)

Ledd Slinger said:
I guarantee the two Nikon scopes you mentioned don't have the same magnification range. Lets talk apples to apples here Mr Optics Expert...
The Monarch X with 30mm tube in 2.5-10x has 80 MOA of vertical adjustement, the regular Monarch with 1" tube in 2.5-10x has 70 MOA of vertical adjustment. WOW 10 MOA! what a huge gain! ::)

I never represented myself as an optics expert, those are your words.

The quality of old Japanese glass is NOT an opinion. It IS high quality glass. Always has been and always will be. I can buy a vintage 3-9x Tasco scope.made in Japan for $45 on ebay but have to spend $300-$500 to get glass of equal quality in a modern scope. There's no denying that. Pick one up on ebay and use all the instruments you want if you don't believe me.
What is an OPINION is that current production Japanese glass is inferior to old Japanese glass. That was my point.

Nikon Monarch X is your idea of HD glass? Hate to burst your bubble, but Nikon does not make a Monarch scope of any kind with HD glass.
I said my "MARCH-X" has HD glass, not my Monarch.

How about you look through some "actual" flourite HD glass before you comment any further...

The word you are looking for is "fluorite," not "flourite." The first one is a mineral, the second one does not exist but it's probably related to a bakery.

I see you neglected to explain how the 30mm tube gets a "slight light advantage," whatever that means with the same objective lens, inner tube, internal lenses and eyepiece. You see, I'm not an "optics expert," so I am always looking to be corrected.
 
I'm not ashamed to admit I was wrong about 30mm tube light transmission. Sorry I forgot to appease your ego in my last reponse. If im wrong im wrong, no big deal. But enough talking to this bayou character...

Here's a good read I found from Ron Spomer on the 1" vs. 30mm tube light gathering debate. It seems that the one of the reasons some 30mm scopes "appear" to gather more light is because some manufacturers use larger internal lenses. The other reasons are optical quality, and coatings of course

http://www.swarovskioptik.com/jaeger/blog/RS_tube_size_matters_but_not_much
 

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