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Inside neck reaming help please

Making .221 FB from .223 Rem. Can I get consistent neck wall thickness by inside neck reaming if I first size with a neck bushing and then inside neck ream leaving the neck wall the thickness I want?
thanks guys
 
A few weeks ago, I was pondering the idea of inside neck reaming, coupled with outside neck reaming to REALLY get the case neck walls straight and uniform. I was watching a video of a "benchrest guru" who spent 2 videos explaining what is necessary to gain the ultimate in accuracy. One of the tenets of his accuracy steps was inside neck reaming!!So I wanted the thoughts of the people on here who do benchrest as well as F-Class shooting. The preponderance of the evidence suggests that IF there is a benefit to it, it is so small as to be not worth the energy spent... So I abandoned my thoughts on it... Besides, I shoot strictly F-Class and not benchrest shooting, where 100ths of an inch can mean 1st or 10th place!...
 
As ShootDots says:
"... IF there is a benefit to it, it is so small as to be not worth the energy spent... "
I could not agree more.
 
I have done this, using a custom RCBS ream die, that left some thickness to clean up by turning, for a .244 neck .222 that has always been and excellent performer. (Hart barrel, 36x scope, 2 oz trigger) and I could not see ANY benefit on the target. Furthermore, it took a couple of firings to smooth out the roughness on the inside of the necks, caused by their being reamed. Who was this benchrest guru? What is his competition record? I can tell you for sure that none of the world record holders that I know, in short range benchrest do this. The closest thing that I have seen was in the Houston Warehouse article, where the insides of necks were bored concentric to the CLs of cases, on a lathe (which is an entirely different process), and as far as I know, that is the only time this has been done. I have also been told, by someone who was there more than once, that he did not see the level of accuracy that was reported as routine.
 
I do some of everything. Witg factory chamber I do not turn the necks at all. I out side neck ream for tight neck chambers and have never had a problem untill I started playing with hot rods. I have a couple that form a doughnut in the case neck form brass flow and the only way to get it out is to inside neck turn.
 
i was once a big advocate for inside neck reaming but agree that i can't really swear it improves accuracy. theoretically it should. turn the outside neck after the expander mandrel pushes neck brass to the outside. shoot a few times. size the neck with a bushing that evenly pushes brass into the neck, then inside ream any neck wall thickness irregularities and now you have a neck wall thickness that is the same from case mouth to shoulder... i do find some necks that are thicker even i thought they were all the same. you will definitely get rid of any donuts even though most don't seat below neck shoulder juncture anyway. brass does "flow" and in time the base of the neck can thicken and you might not detect this with neck bushings. inside reaming removes this flow. reaming marks are there and i have spent extra time polishing these smooth. a lot of work and i'm not sure it is worth doing. i'll keep testing since i'm a firm believer that varying neck tension is not good and anything i can do to have everybody's neck the same, i'll try.
 
I have bored the inside of cases, as Sleepygator stated reamers tend to follow the original hole. I like the idea of straightening the inside to eliminate any "donuts" but then turn the outside to set the thickness. It took me a lot of time to make the tooling to bore the cases, this was in a lathe. I have made 221 fireball from 223 and there is plenty of brass to work with, ream first then turn would be my suggestion if you are looking for a super true case neck. I resigned to just turn and ignore the waviness of the inside. my rifle is a plinker using a shortened 221 fireball with a long neck. This is a novelty for me.
 
go look at the early LEE TARGET MODEL ZERO ERROR hand loading kits.
once fire brass is neck sized, while still in the die a neck reamer is guided from top of the die and the neck reamed.

if one was to clean up only the od before once firing.....it would appear in the end that one would have very nice brass.

a 1000yd record record was once held by a guy using lee hand loading tools....

(ps if anyone has this tool set in 300 win mag or 7.62x54r russian...i'm looking for them)
 
I have the Lee set mentioned in 22-250. It does not cut better than .001 and a lot of the cases are .002 out of wall thickness.
 
did u do as i suggested FIRST ??
CLEANUP NEW BRASS
fire
then ream
???

wapiti25 said:
I have the Lee set mentioned in 22-250. It does not cut better than .001 and a lot of the cases are .002 out of wall thickness.
 

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