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Inside Case Neck Lube

What do you folks use to lube the inside of the case necks???

I used to just put a little case lube in there but I know there are some kinds of powders now that don't cause powder to stick to them.

Thanks.
 
Jason recommends some stuff you get from Neconos.com.

This comes in a little jar with small spheres to aid application. The set with stainless balls costs $37.00, but there's one with carbon steel balls that's only $10.95.

Link: http://www.neconos.com/shop/?shop=1&cat=16&cart=65335

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"SPECIAL CARBON STEEL DRY NECK LUBER

Same action and results as our SUPER DELUXE DRY NECK LUBE. Uses less costly carbon steel balls. Works great! Costs Less! Consists of one jar only containing ultra-fine Moly powder and carbon steel ball bearing stock."
 
Question for Mr. Moderator or Jason..


When using molly balls as an inside neck lube, it lubes the outside also. Is this the only lube you would use on the brass if you were using a Wilson neck bushing die? Will Molly build up on the neck bushing to the point of needing to be cleaned?

Merry Christmas Guys


Chuck
 
I favor Imperial Wax - a 2 oz tin will do ~10k rounds, and it is extremely slippery. Just touching a fingertip to the wax is enough for 3 cases, and I use a cotton swab to lube the inside of the neck. I never get lube dents because so little is used, and tumbling in cob is enough to remove it entirely.
 
Chuck, sorry, just saw this.

I size first after US cleaning, then remove RCBS lube with alcohol on a paper towel.

then prime

Then they get a moly dip right before seating the bullet

Dip and twist in the moly powder a couple times...wipe outside of neck with a patch...dump powder in...seat bullet

It can be used as a outer neck lube too, but I have not used it that way.

JB
 
Gunamonth...I tried that too, but Lock-Ease DOES NOT EVAPORATE...it still leaves a petroleum/graphite goo...

put some out on foil and let it for a few days...or weeks...lets a SLUDGE remaining...I don't like the idea of burning any more petroleum in my nore than absolutely necessary.

JMO,
JB
 
Lube allows the expander to slide easily and more uniformly through the neck of the case, resulting in a more uniform neck diameter and better concentricity.
 
Mike -- I lube simply to minimize seating depth variations due to the VERY clean brass. Often the very clean brass will gall the bullets a bit...at least that is my theory on the sticky seatin...

Seating bullets in US cleaned cases in some of my dies gives anywhere from 4-15thou variance in OAL at the ogive...the NECO Moly helps keep it under 2thou OAL ES.

JB
 
:)
I also use the Lee lube, 20 rounds or so on the finger tip hard to get too little on a case.
I tried powdered Mica, dipped bullet base before seating. Used a contact lens case to hold the powder.
Now only for new cases prior to first firing.
 
Tried Redding dry lube and neo and Lee case lube. Like the Lee lube on a qtip and swiped inside the necks. Dries quickly and doesn't harm powder or primers
 
I have been using Imperial Dry Lube for many years, but recently switched to the 21st Century dry Moly powder set up. I really like it. They send you two small containers, one with the dry Moly powder and one filled with small ceramic balls. You put some of the dry Moly powder in the ceramic balls and give it a shake. They you just dip the necks in and give them a twist. I have found that it works very nice and I am getting pretty consistent results, pressure wise, on the seating press using the stuff.
 
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