Increased neck tension with moly

[BradY]

Just thinking out loud here, but when loading moly coated bullets I notice seating pressure to be a lot more even but it does feel reduced due to the lubrication moly provides.

I'm wondering to help maintain a consistent start pressure if increasing neck tension would be a good idea? Caliber is 284 shehane and shooting 180 hybrids jumped 10 thou out to 1000yds.

Thanks
Brad

 

[Immike]

Yes sir, it is definitely a good idea. You can't leave it too light or they will move during transport. I keep foam in the lids of all my boxes so they can't jiggle or bounce.

 

[stool]

how much do you have now ?
i have no issues with .003 and i shoot moly in almost everything i shoot.
one gun is hbn(1000yd) and just a couple are nekid....

 

[BradY]

Ive always run 1 thou. With the current bushings I have I can run 2 thou. Not sure if it will make a difference in POI or not. I only thought of it as with 1 thou tension I can fairly easily pull bullets out of a loaded moly round and get powder in the action. With naked bullets that doesnt happen with the same tension. Not that Im jamming anymore, but yeah it got me thinking about more consistent start pressures when jumping- neck tension would pretty much be the deciding factor.

 

[Immike]

There are benefits to release with moly that are never discussed or mentioned when it is debated. I have been using for quite awhile and will continue regardless of opinions. Neck tension is not as fussy with it and 2+ will work fine.

 

[searcher]

I second exactly what Immike said!

 

[stool]

will you 2 quit giving away secrets...we just about have everyone convinced moly is bad and you start talking benefits...
shhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!

 

[jonbearman]

will you 2 quit giving away secrets...we just about have everyone convinced moly is bad and you start talking benefits...
shhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!

For once we agree.Shhhhhhhhhhhhh!

 

[Brians356]

WRT seating any bullets, but especially moly-coated ones, I always take the extra time to burnish the case mouths (after deburring/chamfering of course):

Put a dime-sized wad of 0000 steel wool on the bench (I have a cork pad on mine) and twirl the case back and forth in your fingers while mashing the case mouth down into the wad of wool. Or you can press a wad against the case mouth with a fingertip while spinning the case in your trimmer. After a few seconds you will feel and hear the brass smooth out (at first it will drag in the wool a tiny bit - grab a fresh wad of wool as needed, it will disintegrate rather quickly when tangling with unburnished brass.) It rounds over the sharp corners and knocks down any tiny toolmarks left by the deburring tool.

While I'm at it, I clean up the outside of the necks with steel wool before sizing them.

I size .002" under, for bare and moly bullets, using Redding bushing dies.

Brian

 

[spclark]

If they're shooting as good as you think they can now, why change anything? That easy-seating feedback you mention is similar to what I felt when I started annealing. Boosting neck tension didn't help accuracy at all in my case.

If you can't pull seated bullets out of the case with your fingers, or push them deeper by finger pressure alone, I'd leave things as they are. Once a primer ignites case necks begin to open up before powder gets going much anyway... but you don't want 'em moving in or out after you've loaded them.