If I change bullet weight, do I change powder charge?

[LIUNA]

This may sound like a dumb question, but if I go from shooting a 80 gr Nosler BT to a 69 gr Berger FB, how much powder charge change is there. I was shooting 39.3 gr of Varget. The barrel is a Pac Nor 12 twist. I have been trying different loads without success. Your advice would be appreciated.
Bob

 

[Nomad47]

Any bullet weight change necessitates a charge change. For that matter, even a primer change. You should be able to add a little to your charge going down in bullet weight. Of course, the only safe way to do it is to work up from a safe starting point watching for pressure signs.
THERE ARE NO SAFE SHORTCUTS IN RELOADING.

 

[MNFinn]

Any bullet weight change necessitates a charge change. For that matter, even a primer change. You should be able to add a little to your charge going down in bullet weight. Of course, the only safe way to do it is to work up from a safe starting point watching for pressure signs.
THERE ARE NO SAFE SHORTCUTS IN RELOADING.

pretty much what I was going to say. I'm in the middle of a bullet weight change my self...my rifle didn't seem to like what I was shooting as much as I originally thought

 

[Eddie Harren]

Obtain a reloading manual and read, from the 1st page, in the section titled: "Introduction to Reloading".

 

[Shynloco]

This may sound like a dumb question, but if I go from shooting a 80 gr Nosler BT to a 69 gr Berger FB, how much powder charge change is there. I was shooting 39.3 gr of Varget. The barrel is a Pac Nor 12 twist. I have been trying different loads without success. Your advice would be appreciated.
Bob

Bob,
The only "dumb" question is the one that isn't asked. Now I have a question for you because you didn't mention what caliber of rifle you are shooting. And the other concern I might have is you mention you are shooting a 1:12 twist barrel and are considering going down to possibly a 69 gr bullet. GENERALLY speaking, 60 -70 gr bullets need a 1:7 - 1:8 twist to perfrom well. Varget or RL15 work well in those twists and 68 - 70 gr bullets, but in a 1:8 twist like my 6mmbr rifle. Lets us know what caliber you are shooting and perhaps the suggestions would come with more info to help you out in search of that "sweet load" for your particular rifle. BTW, that PACNOR should work well once you refine that load.

 

[Turbulent Turtle]

Any bullet weight change necessitates a charge change. For that matter, even a primer change.

I don't care who you are, that's funny. Changing primers because of a different bullet weight. Really?

But the original question is indicative of someone not understanding the basic concepts of handloading. It's all about following proven recipes. If you change one component, you should follow a recipe that has that ingredient in it. So if your load is for an 80 grain bullet and you want to use a 69grain bullet, look for a load for a 69 grain bullet. Don't guess.

It would also be a good idea to tell us which caliber you are loading for.

 

[LIUNA]

I am shooting a 243 Win, 12 twist, Pac Nor, 22 inch fluted barrel. I don't want to annoy anyone with my question, just wanted some advice.
Thanks to all,
Bob

 

[Turbulent Turtle]

I am shooting a 243 Win, 12 twist, Pac Nor, 22 inch fluted barrel. I don't want to annoy anyone with my question, just wanted some advice.
Thanks to all,
Bob

You did not annoy anyone, but it's always a good idea to give as much info as possible when asking questions about handloading.

Your best friend here is the powder manufacturer's website, www.hodgdon.com. They have a lot of loading data and they know how to use their product, Varget.

For a .243 Winchester with a 70gr bullet, the load ranges from 38.0gr to 40.5gr. Never exceed powder manufacturer's data.

For an 80gr Sierra bullet, Hodgdon shows a load from 36.0gr to 38.5gr.

 

[4xforfun]

1-7 to 1-8 twist for a 69 gr bullet? I, pretty sure that is not correct.

 

[steve4102]

Any bullet weight change necessitates a charge change. For that matter, even a primer change.

I don't care who you are, that's funny. Changing primers because of a different bullet weight. Really?

But the original question is indicative of someone not understanding the basic concepts of handloading. It's all about following proven recipes. If you change one component, you should follow a recipe that has that ingredient in it. So if your load is for an 80 grain bullet and you want to use a 69grain bullet, look for a load for a 69 grain bullet. Don't guess.

It would also be a good idea to tell us which caliber you are loading for.

You know what he meant right?
"Even a primer change" requires a drop in powder charge and a work back up.

 

[Stimpylu32]

Any bullet weight change necessitates a charge change. For that matter, even a primer change.

I don't care who you are, that's funny. Changing primers because of a different bullet weight. Really?

But the original question is indicative of someone not understanding the basic concepts of handloading. It's all about following proven recipes. If you change one component, you should follow a recipe that has that ingredient in it. So if your load is for an 80 grain bullet and you want to use a 69grain bullet, look for a load for a 69 grain bullet. Don't guess.

It would also be a good idea to tell us which caliber you are loading for.

You make a couple valid points , yet you seem to miss the point that you Quoted - the point is that if you change primers you need to rework your load data !

stimpy

 

[tunered]

This may sound like a dumb question, but if I go from shooting a 80 gr Nosler BT to a 69 gr Berger FB, how much powder charge change is there. I was shooting 39.3 gr of Varget. The barrel is a Pac Nor 12 twist. I have been trying different loads without success. Your advice would be appreciated.
Bob

This may sound dumber, why such a slow twist in a 243?

 

[Shynloco]

turned,
I can only speak for myself, but I am are comparing a .243 Winchester with a 6mm Remington. The bullets are extremely close in caliber size (can be shot from both caliber weapons), yet the casings are different in size and capacity. And as such, I am basing my comments on my experiences and what the reloading manuals tell us in terms of the barrel twist for the rifle they used to develop their reloading info. Hence the twist ratio given for a .243 (or 6mm), 1:8. Even Sierra prints right on the .243 (6mm) bullet boxes, "7" THROUGH 8" TWIST BBLS. ONLY" in big red letters. Thats what they've found stabilizes the bullet the best.

 

[LIUNA]

Regarding the question of 80 gr bullet, I contacted Berger and that was their recommendations for 1 in 12 twist.

 

[pmarauder]

turned,
I can only speak for myself, but I am are comparing a .243 Winchester with a 6mm Remington. The bullets are extremely close in caliber size (can be shot from both caliber weapons), yet the casings are different in size and capacity. And as such, I am basing my comments on my experiences and what the reloading manuals tell us in terms of the barrel twist for the rifle they used to develop their reloading info. Hence the twist ratio given for a .243 (or 6mm), 1:8. Even Sierra prints right on the .243 (6mm) bullet boxes, "7" THROUGH 8" TWIST BBLS. ONLY" in big red letters. Thats what they've found stabilizes the bullet the best.

I believe you may be mis-interpreting what the manual is trying to recommend for acceptable rate of twist to stabilize the heavier 107 grain (.243) Sierra MK. For this bullet, they reccommend the 1-7" or 1-8" twist to stabilize the longer, heavier bullet. The lighter 69 - 70 grain bullets would be better suited with a 1-12" twist or there about. Correct me if im wrong, but if you shot the light 69 grain bullet out of a (max load) 243 winchester w/ a 1-8" twist, That bullet would pretty much come apart in mid air.

 

[tunered]

Standard twist for a 243 is 1in 10, Rem uses 1 in 9 1/4, in both 6mm and 243.

 

[Leaddog]

Heavier bullets require less powder. Go with the manufacturer specs and work up. Be safe.

 

[Ackman]

GENERALLY speaking, 60 -70 gr bullets need a 1:7 - 1:8 twist to perfrom well.

That's not at all true. Not even close.

 

[jonbearman]

Liuna,I think doced was telling you to read a manual for your own safety rather than being funny.I too am concerned for your safety and would hope you would explore the thought of bying several reloading manuals so you can load and have fun.Most guys here will anser any question you have at any time to help you,and we love doing that. But safety first is the most important knowledge we have,to wake up with 10 toes and 10 fingers so to speak. Please dont hesitate to continue asking questions no matter the subject matter.

 

[markr]

Reloading metallic cartridges is fun and cost effective! However...anyone wishing to attempt reloading must realize that there are steadfast rules that must be followed! All of this information is available in every major reloading manual that I have ever seen.
Secondly, the internet! One of my pet peeves! I think that the internet is a great and wonderful place/ Almost everything that you want or need to kn ow is on the internet, as well as a lot of things thaat you don't need or want to know. This site is one of the best, most complete sites on any subject...that I have ever seen! When you ask a question here, good people almost stumble over themselves to help you, and that is a good thing. But some of the information is not so good or sometimes just plain wrong. Sometimes advice is given with the assumption that one has a lot of experience on the subject...is for advanced reloaders and shooters, yet the less experienced take this advice and run with it not always realizing the full consequences of doing so. In other words, please do the study time that is required, buy the things that you need to have such as reloading manuals and quit trying to just take shortcuts to get it done...you just may find yourself injured or worse. Quit trying to save a penny to accomplish nothing but speed. Internet advice really is worth what you have paid for it....because there is no responsibilty by the poster to insure that the information they have given you is correct. If you have printed material, at least there is some liability for truth and information being correct.
Mark