I am handloading for 22-250 AI with fireformed Norma cases which have only been neck sized since forming. I am priming my cased with an RCBS hand priming tool. I am only getting about 65% of my rounds to fire. I took my rifle back to the gunsmith and he checked the rifle out and said that it had to be "bad primers". I threw the rest of those primes in the garbage and bought a new box and loaded more 22-250 AI as well as .243 Win and .270 Win. The .243 and the .270 shot fine but the 22-250 had the same problem. So, back to the gunsmith I went where he changed the firing pin spring. Afterwards, I came home and primed 20 cases and popped them in the garage. 2 of the 20 didn't go off. The firing pin protrusion is fine, headspaceing is fine, primers are fine. What might my problem be?? Any ideas?
I need an expert's diagnosis.....
- Thread starter crittergitter
- Start date
One thing I failed to mention...Before I primed the cases and popped them in the garage, I used the priming tool that is mounted on my press instead of the hand priming tool. Can a primer be damaged by using too much force with a hand priming tool?
Forum Boss
Administrator
Are you tumbling your cases in walnut media? Have you checked the flash-holes for obstructions?
I know the smith checked out your firing pin, but for unknown reason you may still be getting light strikes. You can try switching to Federal or Winchester primers. They have softer cups and will ignite more reliably with light strikes.
I'm sure others may have some suggestions. Your situation is a bit mysterious.
Also, have these cases only been shot once? If your fire-forming charge was not hot enough, the shoulder will not have blown all the way forward, and you may need to jam the bullets into the lands on firing 2 and 3 to ensure the cases do not move forward when hit by the firing pin. I know you said headspace is "fine" but if there is even a bit of excess headspace, you can get a fail to ignite.
Which RCBS hand-priming tool are you using? The one that mounts to to bench can, if not adjusted correctly, over-crush the primers--it has a lot of mechanical force. If you are using the primer tool that you grip in your hand I don't think that would be an issue.
I know the smith checked out your firing pin, but for unknown reason you may still be getting light strikes. You can try switching to Federal or Winchester primers. They have softer cups and will ignite more reliably with light strikes.
I'm sure others may have some suggestions. Your situation is a bit mysterious.
Also, have these cases only been shot once? If your fire-forming charge was not hot enough, the shoulder will not have blown all the way forward, and you may need to jam the bullets into the lands on firing 2 and 3 to ensure the cases do not move forward when hit by the firing pin. I know you said headspace is "fine" but if there is even a bit of excess headspace, you can get a fail to ignite.
Which RCBS hand-priming tool are you using? The one that mounts to to bench can, if not adjusted correctly, over-crush the primers--it has a lot of mechanical force. If you are using the primer tool that you grip in your hand I don't think that would be an issue.
The primers used are Federal. And yes, the primer pockets are clean and flash holes are as well. These cases have been shot twice,including the fire form shooting).
I just did a comparison between primers seated with the hand priming tool and the priming tool on the press itself. The hand priming tool "flattens" the primer a bit. Should I not compress the hand tool fully? Would this damage the primer and its ablility to go off when hit with the firing pin?
How much below the back of the cartridge case is the surface of the primer when fully seated?
If you inadvertently deepened the primer pocket with a tool that was out of spec, you could be just barely contacting the primer, or more likely, the primer could be seating deeper when struck, which soaks up a lot of the firing pin energy.
What do the primers look like that have not gone off?
The amount of firing pin indentation could be a big clue.
Another very likely possibility is you may be resizing the cases way too much, and the whole case moves forward in the chamber when the firing pin hits the primer, again cushioning the blow.
If you inadvertently deepened the primer pocket with a tool that was out of spec, you could be just barely contacting the primer, or more likely, the primer could be seating deeper when struck, which soaks up a lot of the firing pin energy.
What do the primers look like that have not gone off?
The amount of firing pin indentation could be a big clue.
Another very likely possibility is you may be resizing the cases way too much, and the whole case moves forward in the chamber when the firing pin hits the primer, again cushioning the blow.
Im no expert...
I was told that with a high leverage press you can actually over size a case by as much as a few thousandths. I never use the press to prime.
I think id check the headspace of a fully sized piece of brass with scotch tape and see where it falls.
Do you have a light weight firing pin? If so i think id try swapping back to a heavier pin to see if its not to light of pin and spring and causing some sort of bounce. Might also see about polishing the firing pin cavity. The only time i have ever had ignition problems was once when i tried seating primers to soon after cleaning the brass in lacquer thinner, totally my fault.
Firing pin protrusion is fine, but what is it?
Also check your primer depth with a straight edge and a light.
good luck.
I was told that with a high leverage press you can actually over size a case by as much as a few thousandths. I never use the press to prime.
I think id check the headspace of a fully sized piece of brass with scotch tape and see where it falls.
Do you have a light weight firing pin? If so i think id try swapping back to a heavier pin to see if its not to light of pin and spring and causing some sort of bounce. Might also see about polishing the firing pin cavity. The only time i have ever had ignition problems was once when i tried seating primers to soon after cleaning the brass in lacquer thinner, totally my fault.
Firing pin protrusion is fine, but what is it?
Also check your primer depth with a straight edge and a light.
good luck.
NorCalMikie
Gold $$ Contributor
You would think that a 22.250 fire formed case would have the shoulder blown out enough that the case would fill the chamber??
I've got a .221 Fireball that will have one dud out of about 50 rounds with CCI primers. All primed with a Lee hand tool and all the bullets are jamed. The same primers in my 22 and 6 BR never have a problem.
When you get a dud, press the primer out, catch it and get a "real good" look at it. Mine are burnt but wouldn't set off the powder charge. Maybe the primers are set too deep on some of your cases? Still havn't got mine figured out either.
One thing that I do is tumble my primed cases before I load them. Might be tumbeler media in the flash hole? Never been able to prove it.
I've got a .221 Fireball that will have one dud out of about 50 rounds with CCI primers. All primed with a Lee hand tool and all the bullets are jamed. The same primers in my 22 and 6 BR never have a problem.
When you get a dud, press the primer out, catch it and get a "real good" look at it. Mine are burnt but wouldn't set off the powder charge. Maybe the primers are set too deep on some of your cases? Still havn't got mine figured out either.
One thing that I do is tumble my primed cases before I load them. Might be tumbeler media in the flash hole? Never been able to prove it.
NorCalMickie, I agree with you. We used to do some basement shooting with 38 revolvers using only the primers for propelling a wadcutter. I would think a detonating primer would be able to force tumbling media out of the flash hole.
As far as the headspace issue, Usually the extractor would hold the case agains't the bolts face. Sounds to me like the primer pocket may be too deep or something is impeding the firing pin.
As far as the headspace issue, Usually the extractor would hold the case agains't the bolts face. Sounds to me like the primer pocket may be too deep or something is impeding the firing pin.
NorCalMikie
Gold $$ Contributor
Sounds like Eric,crittergitter) might have some of the cases with the primer holes a little too deep?? Less force applied from the firing pin?
We all need to go to his house and see what's up.
And the reason I tumble my primed cases before I load them is because I like my brass to shine! They come out looking better than new. No finger prints, marks from the die or leftover sizing lube. Nothing but shine!
And clean brass is easier on the dies. My BR and Fireball brass never touches the ground. Can't say the same for my Mini 14, M1A or my AR brass but it all gets the same treatment.
We all need to go to his house and see what's up.
And the reason I tumble my primed cases before I load them is because I like my brass to shine! They come out looking better than new. No finger prints, marks from the die or leftover sizing lube. Nothing but shine!
And clean brass is easier on the dies. My BR and Fireball brass never touches the ground. Can't say the same for my Mini 14, M1A or my AR brass but it all gets the same treatment.If it's not the primers, and it's not the priming process, and it's not the gun, that leaves the brass. Check the depth of the primer pockets. Are you uniforming?
Edit post: Like minds....
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Edit post: Like minds....
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