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I messed up and trimmed my brass to short

I had some starline brass that was 1.27" so I decided to trim all my brass to the same length for consistency. At the time I thought it was a good idea.

Now I'm loading it with 13.4gr of accurate #9 and campro 158gr RNFP. The load data for this, mimics the hornady 158gr xtp.

Accurate lists the minimum OAL as 1.58", but crimping at the cannelure gets me at 1.5630" on the shortest rounds and 1.57" on the longest rounds. Short of what the minimum OAL is listed as.

These loads were meant for my chiappa 1892 lever gun if that makes any difference.

Now I'm not too sure what I should do with my loaded rounds, as well as all the trimmed brass. I've attached a picture it helps at all.

I'm pretty new to reloading as well.
 

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I saw in my book, and the website for Accurate had these cases at 1.58" COL and the maximum COL for 357 as 1.59". I thought I had to be between those two values.

So I'm okay if they are slightly shorter?
 
I have had to trim 44 mag. brass cases more than once. As long as you can crimp into the cannelure you will be fine. If you can't, a slight die adjustment will fix you up.
 
I shoot 45/70 and .500 S&W straight cases. No big deal when shooting in revolvers and crimp on the cannelure as others have said. However, in a lever action some manufacturers list the maximum COL. For example, my .500 S&W carbine lists the max COL of 2.15". a 350 grain Berry's I do not need to trim the case just push the pellet in deeper. The only time I need to trim the case is when shooting Hornaday 325 FTX as they are extremely long. In untrimmed cases they work well in the revolver but cannot close the breach in the carbine. Also, think about it you can shoot 38 specials in the 44 which are shorter. Just as I shoot .500 S&W specials in my .500 revolver.
 
In over 55 years of reloading I have never"had" to trim straight wall handgun brass. I did a few one time but never again. If you were loading "full power" loads and needed a super tight crimp, trimming allows you yo set die for a uniform crimp on each case.

Frank
 
Thank you for all your replies, and help.

I was trimming since I thought it would be easier to have everything set and not have to readjust the dies as some casings were slightly longer than others.
 
I shoot 45/70 and .500 S&W straight cases. No big deal when shooting in revolvers and crimp on the cannelure as others have said. However, in a lever action some manufacturers list the maximum COL. For example, my .500 S&W carbine lists the max COL of 2.15". a 350 grain Berry's I do not need to trim the case just push the pellet in deeper. The only time I need to trim the case is when shooting Hornaday 325 FTX as they are extremely long. In untrimmed cases they work well in the revolver but cannot close the breach in the carbine. Also, think about it you can shoot 38 specials in the 44 which are shorter. Just as I shoot .500 S&W specials in my .500 revolver.
You can't shoot 38 specials. in a 44. They have to be 44 specials.
 
Crimp in the crimp groove. Anywhere else can cause issues.
I ran 500 rounds of Starline brass through my FA IHMSA gun long enough with heavy loads of H110/296, SRP and 180-195 cast bullets the primer pockets gave up. Never did trim any.
If I have to trim pistol brass it’s time to junk it.
 
Others have great luck with special brass in magnum guns. I must be the only one on the planet that doesn’t. Goes bang and makes noise.
Of all things that I possess that will work multiple case lengths and shoot acceptably well is my Ruger 357 Max. This was taken into consideration when designing the reamer to my understanding.
 
I was trimming since I thought it would be easier to have everything set and not have to readjust the dies as some casings were slightly longer than others.
Best if trim length is same or close. Depends on the length of the crimp groove. Accurate #9 does require a snug crimp, for powder to burn correctly. More so with cast lead bullets.

Small details may make for better accuracy in your Chiappa 1892 lever rifle.

https://saami.org/
 
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