I bumped the shoulder back too much
- Thread starter rebs
- Start date
That's a really good solution to this.
What was reason for bumping the shoulder?
Hard to chamber? Wouldn’t chamber?
To me shoulder bumping is not a step in reloading. It is needed when something is wrong, as mentioned above.
If you’re reloading for hunting and feel uncertain about proper chambering why not take those loaded rounds and chamber them to see? Safely of course.
I may get some grief for this answer, but I have used it many times and it has worked well. You don't say what cartridge you are working with. That might help. I have needed to move the shoulder forward on several wildcat cases, one being a 6 Grinch, but that's another story. Lately I've needed to move a 6 PPC shoulder forward. The false shoulder method is a good one and I've used it. Sometimes it works others not. My current practice is to use a slower powder so that I can fill the case with just enough to seat a bullet with a slightly compressed load. I have used 4831 in a PPC case several times. Next use a much tighter bushing. I used a .260 neck bushing on a finished neck size of .266. Seat the bullet just enough to stay in the case, which should result in a heavy engagement into the lands. They should move the shoulder forward. Be damn sure you use a powder with a burn rate slow enough to avoid overloading.
This is not a recommendation. I'm just relating what works for me.
Rick
This is not a recommendation. I'm just relating what works for me.
Rick
If you included a pic I didn't see it. I do remember having a firing pin once that wouldn't
strike the primers hard enough or deep enough to ignite them.
It was on a new Tikka rifle from Finland evidently with too much cosmoline i the bolt
body that when cold got too thick and sticky to allow the firing pin to operate freely.
strike the primers hard enough or deep enough to ignite them.
It was on a new Tikka rifle from Finland evidently with too much cosmoline i the bolt
body that when cold got too thick and sticky to allow the firing pin to operate freely.
I think all factory loads have excess headspace and don't touch the lands. As others said load to slight jam and you should get the best case shape.
Unless you seat the bullet out further to jam the lands and re-fire the cartridge, then there is no way other than hydro forming to use them again, for reliable firing in your rifle.
Redo the bullet seating and fire form them back to your chamber specs. Then adjust your dies so they do not bump the shoulder, unless you must after many firings.
Redo the bullet seating and fire form them back to your chamber specs. Then adjust your dies so they do not bump the shoulder, unless you must after many firings.
I didn't see the caliber identified, or the quantity of brass involved.
If you balance the cost/availability of the bullet, powder, and primer (Especially LR) today,
and your time, all used just to reform, it might prove better to start over with new brass.
If you balance the cost/availability of the bullet, powder, and primer (Especially LR) today,
and your time, all used just to reform, it might prove better to start over with new brass.
Did you try firing them more than once? Lots of times they will go after another hit.
jackieschmidt
Gold $$ Contributor
That seems like an odd statement.
I can’t think of one shooter I know who reloads a case without first bumping the shoulder.
Yea, or full length resizing. Doug
Well at least you know one now, which is really useless info.
Don’t think for a second anything I write is meaning anything except what I do or experience. Strictly my method. Should I have a case that chambers hard or not at all, yes I will bump it, but I need a reason.
RegionRat
Gold $$ Contributor
FPNI
You may need to resize the neck to get enough neck tension. You may need to combine the concept of the jam from Prose and the false shoulder from Kings X, but one or both will get things done.
If you think about what is done when forming something like 6 Dasher from 6 BR, you are basically in that same boat.
I would try the jam method on the shortest ones first. This would be the least amount of difference in terms of cold work on the batch so that when they are all done you don't have lots of variation in the ones that fired normally the first time.
If the jam method doesn't work by itself, then combine it with the false shoulder method and make sure you have your bolt lugs clean and lubricated that day.
You may need to resize the neck to get enough neck tension. You may need to combine the concept of the jam from Prose and the false shoulder from Kings X, but one or both will get things done.
If you think about what is done when forming something like 6 Dasher from 6 BR, you are basically in that same boat.
I would try the jam method on the shortest ones first. This would be the least amount of difference in terms of cold work on the batch so that when they are all done you don't have lots of variation in the ones that fired normally the first time.
If the jam method doesn't work by itself, then combine it with the false shoulder method and make sure you have your bolt lugs clean and lubricated that day.
prwhite
Silver $$ Contributor
This method is sort of a PITA but works without having to pull/reseat bullets. Pull bolt out, insert cartridge into bolt face to be captured by the extractor, insert bolt with round attached and chamber. Primer is held against the bolt face. Firing pin does not push the case forward. Method is not fun during a competition.
ps: also prevents blanked primers in the event the round does fire with excessive headspace.
ps: also prevents blanked primers in the event the round does fire with excessive headspace.
Last edited:
NorCalMikie
Gold $$ Contributor
Like mentioned, couple of taps with an inertia bullet puller should move the bullet out to touch the lands and hold the case head against the bolt face.
Fire it then resize without pushing the shoulder back TOO FAR.
If the fired case will rechamber without too much resistance on bolt closing, size the neck, prime, load and go shooting.
Fire it then resize without pushing the shoulder back TOO FAR.
If the fired case will rechamber without too much resistance on bolt closing, size the neck, prime, load and go shooting.
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