Hydroforming 6bra

[cast1]

Anything wrong with getting a hydroforming die from Hornady to preform the brass for 6 bra or is it a waste?

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Its a waste. You need 100 rounds down your barrel before you start really tuning anyhow.

 

[pat fulghum]

My $.02 worth

Buy 200 pieces of brass.
Buy a 8# jug of H4895
Buy 1# of varget
Buy 2000 cci 450’s
Buy one 6Bra Barrel
Buy 2000 105 hybrid (or Berger 108 or VT103)

start low and work up to just under 30gr varget .. form 200 brass..this load will shoot very well so don’t waste it just shooting You have a little Varget left but not much

Now take the H4895 tune your load you should get 1900 rounds with that jug o powder.

Your brass will have 10firings, you are out of that lot of powder, you are out of bullets, primers are almost gone, barrel close to done

(You could buy 10 1# of h4895 and stretch it out a bit)

Remember how much fun you had.
Remember what you learned. (You wrote it all down right )


Open up the wallet and start over with new lot of powder, brass, primers, bullets, and get a new barrel

Almost works out perfectly

 

[PMA3]

My $.02 worth

Buy 200 pieces of brass.
Buy a 8# jug of H4895
Buy 1# of varget
Buy 2000 cci 450’s
Buy one 6Bra Barrel
Buy 2000 105 hybrid (or Berger 108 or VT103)

start low and work up to just under 30gr varget .. form 200 brass..this load will shoot very well so don’t waste it just shooting You have a little Varget left but not much

Now take the H4895 tune your load you should get 1900 rounds with that jug o powder.

Your brass will have 10firings, you are out of that lot of powder, you are out of bullets, primers are almost gone, barrel close to done

(You could buy 10 1# of h4895 and stretch it out a bit)

Remember how much fun you had.
Remember what you learned. (You wrote it all down right )


Open up the wallet and start over with new lot of powder, brass, primers, bullets, and get a new barrel

Almost works out perfectly

Pat,

Why did you choose Varget as the fire forming powder? Could you also use H-4895, IMR 4166 or RL-15, which are all faster burners?

Paul

 

[pat fulghum]

Why? ... Just trying to be nice to the brass on the first firing.... it will take 2 firings to fully form.

 

[BT1]

Used 30 gn of H4895 for FFing. Very accurate. Good enough for club matches. Have fun with those first rounds. Did jam 0.010 just to be sure with 105 Hybrids. Now use the VTs for matches and closer to 31 gn of H4895.

 

[kvd]

My $.02 worth

Buy 200 pieces of brass.
Buy a 8# jug of H4895
Buy 1# of varget
Buy 2000 cci 450’s
Buy one 6Bra Barrel
Buy 2000 105 hybrid (or Berger 108 or VT103)

start low and work up to just under 30gr varget .. form 200 brass..this load will shoot very well so don’t waste it just shooting You have a little Varget left but not much

Now take the H4895 tune your load you should get 1900 rounds with that jug o powder.

Your brass will have 10firings, you are out of that lot of powder, you are out of bullets, primers are almost gone, barrel close to done

(You could buy 10 1# of h4895 and stretch it out a bit)

Remember how much fun you had.
Remember what you learned. (You wrote it all down right )


Open up the wallet and start over with new lot of powder, brass, primers, bullets, and get a new barrel

Almost works out perfectly

Great post - good analysis of component usage with some humor thrown in. Love it!

If I may pass on a typing tip: if you want to type a cent symbol (¢), on PC computers, hold down the ALT key and type the number 155 on the number pad. The old ASCII codes won't work on the numbers above the letters - only the number pad.

Ken

 

[Clancy]

Its a waste. You need 100 rounds down your barrel before you start really tuning anyhow.

Alex I think you're very sharp, but I don't understand. I've seen guys posting ones and twos fireforming regularly here. Why wouldn't it be just that much better with nearly formed brass?

Understandable that the barrel will change after 100 or so, but just curious why it's a waste?

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Alex I think you're very sharp, but I don't understand. I've seen guys posting ones and twos fireforming regularly here. Why wouldn't it be just that much better with nearly formed brass?

Understandable that the barrel will change after 100 or so, but just curious why it's a waste?

Any testing before 100 or so is wasted.

 

[Clancy]

I've got an ultimatum short action I was planning to build a precision rifle type BRA on. If I might as well be shooting them in the dirt, I think I might load some ELDs and coyote hunt with it this winter, then start looking for a hybrid load.

 

[dogdude]

Great post - good analysis of component usage with some humor thrown in. Love it!

If I may pass on a typing tip: if you want to type a cent symbol (¢), on PC computers, hold down the ALT key and type the number 155 on the number pad. The old ASCII codes won't work on the numbers above the letters - only the number pad.

Ken

¢ haa, it works, Thanks' Ken

 

[Ghansen]

I've just hydro-formed some 6mmGrinch, and I am happy with a two step process that makes "factory" brass for me.

1st stage, run your press up to the forming die, and using your feeler gauges to space +10thou for your initial hydro-forming. This leaves a rounded shoulder to finish forming and gives you reasonable and consistent initial case length

after you have finished hydro-forming the batch

2nd Stage, dry the cases and take the 10thou out and seat the forming die against the shell holder, with light lube and no water run the case up into the hydro die to finish forming the neck and shoulder. This took a few thou off the case length but very uniform results without using components.

You can always experiment a bit to get your own best fit, but this worked for me with the standard Whidden die and chambers as good as bought stuff.

 

[kvd]

¢ haa, it works, Thanks' Ken

Some other useful codes:

Degree symbol ° = ALT 248
Plus/minus ± = ALT 241

Do a google search for American Standard Codes for Information Interchange (ASCII) codes and you can find tables that list all the codes. Kind of strange that these old codes developed in the 1960's are live and well in your PC.

Now back to the OP's question. I believe (I have not fire formed yet) that the 6mm BR case fits snugly enough in the 6BRA chamber that the only thing hydroforming would accomplish is changing the shoulder angle from 30° to 40° which is not worth the time and expense versus just fire forming.

Ken

 

[DocDoc]

Some other useful codes:

Degree symbol ° = ALT 248
Plus/minus ± = ALT 241

Do a google search for American Standard Codes for Information Interchange (ASCII) codes and you can find tables that list all the codes. Kind of strange that these old codes developed in the 1960's are live and well in your PC.

Now back to the OP's question. I believe (I have not fire formed yet) that the 6mm BR case fits snugly enough in the 6BRA chamber that the only thing hydroforming would accomplish is changing the should angle from 30° to 40° which is not worth the time and expense versus just fire forming.

Ken

That is the point of the AI, the chamber is .004 less than the parent, so the parent cartridge is held back against the bolt face for ideal fire forming.