Husqvarna 1900 anyone?

[nakneker]

I was fortunate to see and grab a fine Husky that you posted for sale. I love the older guns with history, and it’s a fine example! A little load testing proved it to be a shooter!
The sad reality is that I have no children to pass my guns to so I keep my eye out for good young men that deserve a good gun and make them a gift. Before this one goes anywhere, I’ll give you a call to see if you want it back.
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Josh! You found the secret combination on that one! That’s one of cleanest 1640s I’ve come across, glad it went to a good home!

 

[joshb]

Josh! You found the secret combination on that one! That’s one of cleanest 1640s I’ve come across, glad it went to a good home!

She’s a sweetheart! Very much appreciated here!

 

[Adam in WI]

I don't anticipate taking this out again for a couple days so I thought I'd do a simple breakdown, and hopefully get some more cosmoline cleaned out of the wood so I can bed it.

This first picture is the bottom metal. Very Mauser-esque but cast aluminum. Good enough for sporting use, and better than plastic.


Next, we see a sleeve/pillar in the rear screw hole.


This is the trigger. A simple two lever, not unlike many others. The lever on the front of the group is the safety itself.

The safety is shown here from an upward angle. You can see the sear just to the right of it.

And again in the safe position. The safety does not block the trigger from moving, it only blocks the sear from being able to drop. The safety also locks the bolt closed.



This screw viewed from above is the trigger pull adjustment screw. They meant for you to be able to adjust this without taking the receiver out of the stock. In it's original form, the trigger bottomed out at about 4 pounds. Not bad, but a simple spring swap brought that right down to 2-1/2 with the adjustment screw set to it's lowest setting. I'm sure some experimenting could net a lower pull with different springs.

 

[Adam in WI]

Here's the cocking piece from the bottom. You'll notice there's no visible cocking ramp.

The cocking ramp is located on top of the bolt, hidden completely by the shroud. The shroud is also concealing a simple lug that holds everything together. The firing pin assembly is easily broken down by turning the shroud clockwise until it pops free from the bolt body. Installation is supposed to be as simple, but I haven't mastered that yet. I still need a flat screwdriver to help compress the spring some before I can rotate it back home.



That's all for now. I did some pretty aggressive scrubbing in and on the stock to clean off as much cosmoline as possible. I should've done this to begin with, as I'm sure the oil I was trying to rub in wasn't going to do much over a coat of waxy grease.

 

[Pirate69]

I've been putting oil on it. What I debate doing is steaming out the impressions and basically making it look new again. The metal (other than the bottom metal) is in almost perfect condition.

I would restore it as much as possible.