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How to improve Sps varmint stock?

Hi,

I'm thinking about buying an Sps Varmint LH 243, and was wondering if and how the stock could be improved for accuracy instead of buying another. I fgure I need a 1/2 MOA shooter for what I want to do.

LH Varmint .243's are scarce. Thanks. Bob
 
The other guys are right, they are junk, BUT you can do some work to them to improve them. You can weight the back with lead, and fill it with spray foam to improve stability. Also you can fill the entire barrel channel with bedding compound to increase strength, but leave the barrel floating. You can also bed the action and recoil lug area. My smith told me that people struggle with getting the bedding to stick to these stock because of the high oil content, but if you heat them with a torch before bedding the compound will stick. My smith did my remington 700 ADL sporter for me, its been 6 months and its solid as a rock...and did I mention 3 shots, 0.80 inch at 200 yards?
 
I figured there would be an innovatiove smith out there that would figure something out. LH wood stocks are hard to find unless over $100. The drop in plastics probably need work anyhow.

The early Savage stocks were and probably still are flimsy yet reports say they shoot as is. It's possible I could get one that shoots great but I doubt it.

It's hard to believe Remington would turn out such a stock in their name.

Hopefully some more ideas will come up. Thanks.
 
Most folks give the SPS Varmint stock bad marks w/o every having examined one of them. You will find the forearm to be perfectly rigid. If you want to add weight, a mix of lead shot and epoxy poured into the open grid work in the forearm will get the job done. If you want a neat job, skim bondo over the shot, finish sand and paint to match the stock. The recoil pad is screwed on so putting weight in the butt is easy. Add the desired weight, then foam it in place with the canned spray insulation type foam. If you want to improve the width of the forearm, attach a 3" wide piece of delrin or aluminum using the existing sling stud screw holes,some models have 2 on the forearm).
I use Marine Tex for bedding, and find that by drilling very small holes in all surfaces to be bedded that it will stay in place on these tupperware models. These stocks are not high end in appearance, but they will definitly get the job done if you dont have to be name brand correct to be happy.
 
I shoot an SPS stock with a bipod. Add a full length "U" channel the length of the forend, epoxy in place, and bed the rifle to the stock. Fill in the entire gap in front of the recoil lug.
 
Acloco, what did you use for a channel?

Larry, were you able to free float the barrel?

I might put weight in the butt to balance it out some.

I don't think the stock is all that bad looking. Filling in the vents would help the appearance.

My wood stocks are all rough looking from crawling through the brush and so forth. No worries about a stock like this one!
 
BA 50. I used a Dremel tool to remove the pressure points, wrapped several rounds of tape around the barrel to raise it while bedding. You can now slide 2 $100.00 bills under the barrel. I didnt want anyone to think that I was cheap by using just dollar bills !!!!
 
Hi Bob, my friend and I also have had good luck with this stock. We both purchased 204 rugers in this model. His shot extreemly well right out of the box, so he has done nothing to it. The stock was too short for me so I sold mine to him. Our smith installed it on my friends new 6.5 br silhouette rifle and it also shoots very well. He said that the forearm was rigid enough but he had to use extra bedding to mate the action properly. Good Luck
garry 6.5br
 
ba_50 said:
Hi,

Hi there just thinking for $159.00 you could put a choate stock on the rifle, may not be good as a mcmillan but much better than the sps stock and very sturdy, and also increase plasters pension, just kidding on that one.
 

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