How to get started with a 6mm-Creedmoor?

[Hengehold]

Is there a standard reamer size and die size for this cartridge?

I currently shoot a 6XC and am getting fed up with the 1.0 version vs. the 2.0 version and keeping all of that stuff strait. I am currently dealing with a 6XC that was accidentally chambered with a 6XC I reamer and my dies and Norma brass are not compatible, etc., etc. I am thinking of jumping ship and changing over to the 6mm Creedmoor in order to get away from a wildcat with different versions. I am trying to determine if there are various versions of the 6mm Creedmoor or if it is standardized.

From pictures, both cartridges look virtually identical. I have not read about any complaints related to the 6mm Creedmoor yet. Any help about this cartridge would be appreciated.

-Trevor

 

[jaygorski]

Is there a standard reamer size and die size for this cartridge?

I currently shoot a 6XC and am getting fed up with the 1.0 version vs. the 2.0 version and keeping all of that stuff strait. I am currently dealing with a 6XC that was accidentally chambered with a 6XC I reamer and my dies and Norma brass are not compatible, etc., etc. I am thinking of jumping ship and changing over to the 6mm Creedmoor in order to get away from a wildcat with different versions. I am trying to determine if there are various versions of the 6mm Creedmoor or if it is standardized.

From pictures, both cartridges look virtually identical. I have not read about any complaints related to the 6mm Creedmoor yet. Any help about this cartridge would be appreciated.

-Trevor

Only difference might be throat and neck size otherwise all the same, which bullet you like shooting? LRI has 3 of my reamers, all different freebore and neck size. Can pretty much interchange shells from one to the other, only change I'd have to make would be seating depth, one has a .104"FB, while the longest fb I have is a .183".

 

[Hengehold]

Only difference might be throat and neck size otherwise all the same, which bullet you like shooting? LRI has 3 of my reamers, all different freebore and neck size. Can pretty much interchange shells from one to the other, only change I'd have to make would be seating depth, one has a .104"FB, while the longest fb I have is a .183".

What reamer print and die set did you go with for the 6 creedmoor?
-T

 

[jaygorski]

What reamer print and die set did you go with for the 6 creedmoor?
-T

All 3 of my reamers came from PT&G, dies are Hornady Custom, NS & FL sizers, Forster Ultra micrometer seater(6xc). So which bullet you like shooting again?

 

[jaygorski]

The last reamer I had made but it was made of carbide per my smiths instructions. http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/6mm-...6-mm-creedmoor-match-136-freebore-275-nk.html

 

[jaygorski]

My first reamer, this is pretty much the standard for what GAP uses. Great for both new and old DTACs and Hornady 105HPBTs. 110MKs as well. http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/6mm-635mm-nopix-showcart-/1950-6mm-creedmoor-reamer.html

 

[Hengehold]

All 3 of my reamers came from PT&G, dies are Hornady Custom, NS & FL sizers, Forster Ultra micrometer seater(6xc). So which bullet you like shooting again?

Thanks for sharing those links to the reamers. If you have a reamer print for the 6 Creedmoor I would love to see it.

I would most likely be using the 105 Hybrids or the 110gr Sierras. I see that there was a G7-.310 posted on this forum for the new 115 DTAC RB but I am not sure where that number came from so I am reluctant to use it as an assessment tool. I believe that Tubb stated the 115 RB was not a drastic change in bullet shape rather than the boat-tail which does not improve BC and pointing which may offer a slight BC improvement. The .310 G7 seems generous.

Was the process of ordering a custom reamer from Hornady painful in any way? Did you just mail in a couple of fired pieces of brass and they created the die off of that?

Thanks,

Trevor

 

[jaygorski]

Thanks for sharing those links to the reamers. If you have a reamer print for the 6 Creedmoor I would love to see it.

I would most likely be using the 105 Hybrids or the 110gr Sierras. I see that there was a G7-.310 posted on this forum for the new 115 DTAC RB but I am not sure where that number came from so I am reluctant to use it as an assessment tool. I believe that Tubb stated the 115 RB was not a drastic change in bullet shape rather than the boat-tail which does not improve BC and pointing which may offer a slight BC improvement. The .310 G7 seems generous.

Was the process of ordering a custom reamer from Hornady painful in any way? Did you just mail in a couple of fired pieces of brass and they created the die off of that?

Thanks,

Trevor

I've got the reamer prints in my email, I can email them to you if you wish. I sent my reamer print to Hornady so they could make my dies, it went pretty well, wasn't the cheapest, I could have used 6.5 creedmoor bushing dies with 269-270 bushing and saved a bunch of money, oh well. I got that .310 BC from a comments section from some site I can't find any longer.

 

[geraldgee]

The last reamer I had made but it was made of carbide per my smiths instructions. http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/6mm-...6-mm-creedmoor-match-136-freebore-275-nk.html

What bullets are you planning to use with the .136 FB?

 

[jaygorski]

What bullets are you planning to use with the .136 FB?

New DTACs, 110MK and 105 JLKs for now. Boattail pressure ring is inside the body a bit but accuracy is coming around.

 

[rardoin]

New DTACs, 110MK and 105 JLKs for now. Boattail pressure ring is inside the body a bit but accuracy is coming around.

That was my concern with some of the standard freebore reamers....having the pressure ring pushed past the neck/shoulder. I specified a 0.145" FB reamer from JGS for my build to give a little wriggle room for the heavies but still be able to have enough neck for the 105's if that does not pan out.

 

[jaygorski]

That was my concern with some of the standard freebore reamers....having the pressure ring pushed past the neck/shoulder. I specified a 0.145" FB reamer from JGS for my build to give a little wriggle room for the heavies but still be able to have enough neck for the 105's if that does not pan out.

I think one can get a rifle to shoot even if the pressure ring is past the neck shoulder juncture. My 708 can attest to that.

 

[myownman]

That was my concern with some of the standard freebore reamers....having the pressure ring pushed past the neck/shoulder. I specified a 0.145" FB reamer from JGS for my build to give a little wriggle room for the heavies but still be able to have enough neck for the 105's if that does not pan out.

I thought I had read that a lot of guys were running the 105's with the GA precision reamer, which has a .180-.183 freebore? The reamer I have on order is for a .183 freebore. I was hoping to be able to run just about anything.

 

[Caleb85]

I bought one off here with .080 FB and then I throated them to .145 shooting 110 JLK's (2.270) at 3125 fps from a 28" tube

 

[waterdog]

I bought one off here with .080 FB and then I throated them to .145 shooting 110 JLK's (2.270) at 3125 fps from a 28" tube

Caleb, would too mind giving us some load details. Sounds like an impressive load.
Thanks
Larry

 

[Caleb85]

Caleb, would too mind giving us some load details. Sounds like an impressive load.
Thanks
Larry

Lapua brass, br4, 110 jlk 45.0gr RL 26 .050 off

 

[jaygorski]

I thought I had read that a lot of guys were running the 105's with the GA precision reamer, which has a .180-.183 freebore? The reamer I have on order is for a .183 freebore. I was hoping to be able to run just about anything.

.183 would fit the old DTAC and Hornady 105HPBT, pretty much nothing else, I wouldn't go no more than .150 even for the heavies, my .136 is really putting those New DTACs into nice groups at 600yds though.

 

[myownman]

.183 would fit the old DTAC and Hornady 105HPBT, pretty much nothing else, I wouldn't go no more than .150 even for the heavies, my .136 is really putting those New DTACs into nice groups at 600yds though.

looks like I may be changing my order. Thanks!

 

[JakeGraves]

Im running a .160 freebore and the 110's are still shoved too far into the case. They shoot well but I would prefer to seat them out a little further. If I had the .183" free bore, the pressure ring would be just at the neck shoulder junction at the lands. Doing it all over, I would say a .210" free bore as long as you stuck to the 110's would be about perfect. This would load into Alpha extended mags just fine or an AICS without the plastic spacer.

I cannot even come close to chambering a factory Hornady 108 ELD M without seating down due to the ogive contacting rifling nearly .150" before seating the bolt.

 

[Milo 2.0]

Im running a .160 freebore and the 110's are still shoved too far into the case. They shoot well but I would prefer to seat them out a little further. If I had the .183" free bore, the pressure ring would be just at the neck shoulder junction at the lands. Doing it all over, I would say a .210" free bore as long as you stuck to the 110's would be about perfect. This would load into Alpha extended mags just fine or an AICS without the plastic spacer.

I cannot even come close to chambering a factory Hornady 108 ELD M without seating down due to the ogive contacting rifling nearly .150" before seating the bolt.

I would try get the reamer print, a couple of us had 6 creeds chambered with .124 freebore, dtac perfect base of boatail just above neck shoulder, 110 could fall out of the case, 105 hybrid 1/3 the way up.
I'd think .105 freebore ideal.
108 eld match feeds perfect here too.