How to fix this die?

[uncle-buck]

I recently loaded some .243 Win. rounds and noticed the cases were scratched near the shoulder. Looked inside the sizing die and saw what looks like brass specks or pitting.

How do I fix this and prevent it from happening again.

Thanks and Merry Christmas...

 

[SeabeeKen]

Keeping dies clean helps prevent this along with good lube. Id use some iosso bore cleaner or flitz liquid to scrub it out.

 

[dk17hmr]

I have used iosso on a patch on a brush spun by a drill to take care of this. "Clean" brass and a good lube. If you are using an expander button in your die make sure that gets cleaned.

 

[jackieschmidt]

The die is case hardened, so it is pretty difficult to hurt it. Just clean it good as was mentioned.

 

[JMayo]

More lube helps prevent build up. Check bushings also for brass deposits

 

[DShortt]

Wad up some Scotchbrite pad, stick it in there and spin it around until it's gone. Won't take long.

 

[DShortt]

This is the stuff I use.

 

[Webster]

I recently loaded some .243 Win. rounds and noticed the cases were scratched near the shoulder. Looked inside the sizing die and saw what looks like brass specks or pitting.

How do I fix this and prevent it from happening again.

Thanks and Merry Christmas...

View attachment 1724579

In my experience the brass comes from not chamfering the neck O.D. Little pieces break off and get dragged down the die. I cleaned mine up with Butches Bore Shine, it contains a lot of ammonia that attacks cooper. I finished by cutting a slot in a wooden dowel and putting a narrow strip of 600 grit sandpaper in the grove and spinning it in the die with an electric drill. You don't have to get all of it out.

What are you using for die lube. I worked in petroleum motor oil, transmission and gear lube research. I use a synthetic or petroleum based hydraulic fluid for lube from AutoZone, it has a much better film strength than the crap other guys think is great stuff.

 

[RegionRat]

Wad up some Scotchbrite pad, stick it in there and spin it around until it's gone. Won't take long.

+1 but will add that this is done in conjunction with something like Kroil or kerosene to act like a surfactant and help lift those deposits with the abrasion.

Think of your dies like a rifle chamber, and you can use the same tools and supplies for the die. You should already have a chamber brush for your rig, and the same one will fit the die. Adding a tuft of Scotch Brite is a good way to remove the stubborn stuff, but run some solvent at the same time.

 

[jimmymac]

I use a synthetic or petroleum based hydraulic fluid for lube from AutoZone, it has a much better film strength than the crap other guys think is great stuff.

That is interesting. Can you make a specific recommendation? Thanks.

 

[Webster]

That is interesting. Can you make a specific recommendation? Thanks.

I started reloading in 1970. At that time I probably used a Lyman product. About 15 years ago I was using a non-additized light vis synthetic oil I swiped from work. For the last about 8 years I have been usng the below product. It has light viscosity. It's about $9 a qt. A qt. could last 10 years. Never had any lube problems. I Always lube the neck since it's the most heavily sized part of the case. I always rolled cases on a pad. This oil wipes off in seconds with a paper towel.

I started using this oil because I didn't like anything in the stores and they are way over priced for very small amounts. Using an oil appealed to me because oil has very high film strength. This means it forms a very thin layer that provides separation between 2 surfaces sliding against each other under load. Very little lever effort is used to size my 6BR and 6BRX cases.

Based on this website guys are happy with many other products. I would try this oil if you are making big case body dimension changes.