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How to buff a Mcmillian fiberglass stock

I just received my McMillan A-2 stock and I wanted to put a nice finish on It I have seen McMillan stocks before with a nice shine finish was wondering If anyone can steer me in the right direction. Thanks..
 
I have three McMillan stocks and understand what you want. I think that you will have to clear coat them because if you buff them you may buff through the jell coat.

I ahve used a little bit of Birchwood Casey Stock Sheen and Conditioner with some limited sucess, but not to the level I believe you want.

George
 
Try a top quality car paste wax and hand buff, may be what you want. Worked for me. May also try 0000steel wool, try it in and inconspicuous small spot and litely buff it.
 
I've used semi-chrome buffing compound and also 555 white on a loose muslin wheel but like said before you need to make sure not to get it hot or buff to much. It also help if you wet sand with 320 and 600 first to remove some of the scratches.

Roger
 
I have a orbatal polisher that I use on cars and It is designed not to bur paint on cars and I have three different types of compounds to try but I did not even think of wet sanding first
 
I would wet sand right to and including 2000 grit.Start with 280,320,400,600,800, and then the 1000,then 2000. They sell trial packs of wet or dry that cover almost all tghe grits I have mentioned. You dont have to sand like you are trying to dig a hole to china,but go over the worst and proceed.It takes me about 3 hours to get it like I want it. I also add a very small amount of diswashing soap in the warm water I sand with. Than have it cleared with automotive clear.
 
thanks for all the great tips I am going o buy sand paper today,what about using a orbital polisher with fine compounds any one have any luck wit that
 
eddywitay said:
I just received my McMillan A-2 stock and I wanted to put a nice finish on It I have seen McMillan stocks before with a nice shine finish was wondering If anyone can steer me in the right direction. Thanks..

First, have you tried calling McMillan to hear what they recommend? Second, I did call McMillan (albeit several years ago) and Kelly himself recommended starting with a good automotive paste wax.

The auto polish isn't going to damage anything, and may be good enough for you. All of that sanding, etc. will remove material. So I suggest you not do those unless you don't like the results of the simpler method(s) first.
 
Really kinda amazing what a little elbow grease and "Meguiars Scratch-X" Scratch and Swirl remover will do to a Mcm stock. I did it a couple yrs back on a lark and was like, Whoa, Schweet!!! Made the colors jump and all nice an shiney!!

I imagine any automotive scratch and swirl remover will do the same. I dont think you could apply enough psi to do any wrong with it..

Rod
 
Scuff it well with 320 and shoot it with automotive clear. Save the elbow grease for buffing the clear to a mirror finish. In a perfect world, it'll look good without anything else if you get the clear to lay down "just right", but, this ain't a perfect world. That's what all those polishes and buffers are for.
 
Goodness ... 3-M CLEAR COAT SCUFF PADS ...plenty of good old waterThe key is not "sanding" through the original finish.Save the 1200>1500>2000>2500 Wet with a drop of soap for after several coats of clear.Norton makes a product called Liquid Ice for buffing...which if you follow directions well be very rewarding. Any great finish is a testimony to the guy or gal that took their time.Also lots of great info on the Auto clear detailing websites. Best of luck!
Shawn
 
Lotsa interesting answers here. I brought my 20+yr. old McMillan back to life w/ Brownells 5F compound. It took a while but results were outstanding. Applied by hand so as not to burn through finish.
 

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