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How much to adjust rightsight?

Hello,
So I did the level thing for my rightsight, where you put a small level on both the front and rear sight to make them even as possible. So when I finally found the right elevation, my group was about 3" right at 100 yards. Would you just adjust the rear sight, or move the front sight ever so slightly and try to get the zero as close as you can with the front sight so you have max adjustment available to the rear sight?
Or is that close enough as is?
Since the rightsight has hash marks 10, 30, and 50, and the elevation I need for 100yards is the 30 hash mark, that means I got about 20moa left for longer ranges, correct?
Any info appreciated,
Ken

I also move the rear sight 12 clicks left and got this nice group attached.
 

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Ken,

you want the sights as level as possible with regard to each other so you don't introduce cant inspired deflection at longer ranges, so if you're happy the sights are level just adjust the rear and set that as your base zero. You should check this at longer ranges on a calm day and see if your no wind zero remains the same as for shorter ranges. Depending on sight radius that 20 figure is quite possibly the MOA you have available for other distances, but not having used their front sights I can't say for sure.

Richard.
 
Move that front sight over, Ken. On about a 32" sight radius, .008 will be about 1', at 100yds.
I would move your front sight .024, using a dial indicator.
 
If this is an issue that you anticipate needing to repeat on a regular basis I would suggest buying a small clamp with a dial indicator from Starrett. It has a C clamp with a V bottom that you just slide over the muzzle after you have installed the front sight, then tighten up the devise with a thumb screw. Make sure that the screws on the sight are snug so it takes a little pressure to turn it. Now, swing the indicator clamp around until the indicator stem makes contact with the sight and tighten the thumb screw. I believe jpretle is correct in his .008 = 1" @ 100 yds. Leave the assembly on while you tighten the sight base screws as the little buggers want to induce torque and mess with your settings. What ever you do, DON'T test your adjustments with the C clamp,indicator attached or you will be buying a new indicator. BTW, those little ones aren't cheap. I hope I didn't make this clear a mud for you. It's really not as complicated as it sounds.
Good luck,
Lloyd
 
Rotating a front sight around the bore axis to get the sight aligned with the rear is the wrong way to get things to 'center up' if you expect to shoot long range frequently.

Rear sights have adjustable windage scales because of this need: you can set a 'no wind' zero by positioning the indexing plate once you're satisfied with your POI down range. I've never had a sight that's mechanically centered when mounted either on an action directly or by use of a sight adapter. Once I had a base machined to get closer but it was still off a few thou.

Keeping accurate records for what that rear sight need ls to be set for when switching it from rifle to rifle intimidates some folks who want ZERO to be ZERO every time, but that's not really necessary IMHO.

On the hash marks up front for elevation, there are more serrations available for movement than the hash marks line up to. You're limited by how close you can get your front sight barrel to the sight base for elevation once you've established where you want your 100 or 600 or 800 yard rear elevation to be. Going the other way the serrations will work as long as you have them properly engaged and there's enough of the front post to get clamped tightly under the adjustment nut. The index doesn't need to line up with a hash mark, you just need to know how far - how many serrations - there are between the one you pick for your 'center' and where the index ends up. You can take paint or make a new index with a fine file if it helps.
 
Well, rechecked my initial "level" and found it was off considerably...will shoot again and see if it changed...
Thanks for answers,
Ken
 

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