how many use ANTI-CANTING devices???

[fieldratsniper]

hey everyone. im trying to get some thoughts on anti-cant devices. are they really needed? it seems like they would be needed more when using the target knobs to adjust rather than using a scope with hold over markings. and how do you make sure they are actully inline with the scope.

i was thinking about trying one. i currently have a leupold with the varmint reticle, but i plan on getting something with a fine duplex and target knobs.

so anyway, i was thinking of using a carpenter's level to mark a horizontal line at a short distance, then putting the scope reticle perfectly level on the line and securing it to the rifle rest. then put the bubble level on the scope. does that sound good, or is there an easier way to do this?

all opinions are welcome on this topic.

thanks,
FRS

 

[memilanuk]

There are probably better or more sophisticated ways to do this, but this works for me so far:

I have some wood blocks that I clamp in a vise that have grooves that my barrel fits in. I used to fuss around trying to get the gun clamped in my cleaning station, but the curved sides of the stock make this more aggravating than productive, for me.

Anyway, I clamp the barreled action in the blocks in the vise, level the scope base, then snug down the vise pretty good, being careful to check that things don't rotate as I tighten the vise. Then I install the scope and rings, and put a level on the top of the elevation turret, and level the scope, again carefully making sure it doesn't rotate as I snug down the scope ring screws. Then I install the anti-cant device,ACD) and check it against the level. If it's a Weaver style base, I take the scope back off, and check that the base is still level as it was at the beginning.

Sometimes scopes can have the crosshairs appear 'cocked' one direction or the other when leveled like this due to production tolerances at the factory. Not sure if the manufacturer makes good on it or not.

Then as an acid test, I take the gun to the range, use a construction level to scribe a plumb vertical line, and place a target dot at the bottom. I then shoot a series of groups as I dial on elevation up to however much I need and then back down. Ideally it should track straight up and down that plumb line.

Another way w/o the barrel blocks and vise I used to use was a combination square and a couple big rubber bands... I'd take the blade off the square, and strap it across the bridge of the scope base so the blade protruded out to one side enough for the handle/level to rest on... then another on the scope turret, and level them against each other. I think a place out there makes something similar... a small bar of flat steel w/ a rubber band and a small line level.

Biggest thing IMHO is to check and double check the accuracy of your level to begin with... put it on a clean flat surface,preferably in the store before you pay for it), and then flip it end for end. Doesn't matter if the surface isn't perfectly level, as long as the level reads the same both ways, it's accurate,enough). If it doesn't agree both ways... grab another one.

YMMV,

Monte

 

[dreever]

I use an anti-cant device on my scopes primarily to make sure the rifle is level when I set up the front rest and rear bag. Does cant make a difference at the target? You better believe it, that's why I spent the $25 on a bubble level on a scope ring.
As to setup, I'm anal as hell installing scopes, rings, and bases. I level and re-level everything, I torque all screws, I lap rings,check and re-check, and check again. Yep, I'm anal. LOL!

I assume by your screen name, and by your equipment mentioned in previous posts that your leaning toward the "sniper-wanna be" game. No insult intended. If so at sites like www.snipercountry.com and www.snipershide.com you can read reviews and articles on cant and it's correction. Lots of good info to be had.

Danny